Liqui Moly or Valvoline Synthec ?

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I've been hesitating between Liqui Moly 5W40 Synthoil Premium and Valvoline 5W40 Synthec. I have a Genesis Coupe 2.0T and after 3000Km on Pennzoil Platinum Pureplus the oil is already dark black. I did a flush and everything. I push my car hard so carbon deposits should be minimal not to mention the fact I also only buy Shell V-Power 91 octane fuel with all it's additives.

Many of my friends swear by Liqui Moly and they tell me it's the only oil that makes a big difference. They say it's too bad people don't know more about this oil. On the other hand there's the internet who says Valvoline Synthec is the best oil bla bla bla. Mobil 1... Bad experience with that oil in the family. Because my car as a turbo and an insane engine compression I needed an opinion on which oil is best for my Korean car. I love the car and I will keep it as long as I can.


Ps: I bough Liqui Moly MOs2 additive the 2009 version. The Cera Tec versio. Is not available to me where I live. Many people say it does wonders so I'll try to pour 2/3 of the bottle (which treats 7L) for my 5.3L oil capacity engine.
 
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I've always wondered, when people say an oil additive (or oil, for that matter) "worked wonders" , just exactly what did it do? Over the last 40 years or so, I've used everything from Gulf Multi-God in the '70'same to RK synot and PPPP today, and I can honestly say, they all worked fine. No one exploded engine in all those years.
Some oils do turn color, sometimes from loosening deposits, some by nature, no biggie.
Use decent oil, change it bases on its type and the engine manufacturer recommedations, and that's the best you can do for any car.
I firmly believe that nothing should be added to motor oil. Oil companies have spent billions to developers their oils, and I don't feel they need any help.
 
OP,
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The color of the oil does not indicate condition. It indicates that the oil is holding contaminates in suspension. I don't see any need for anything exotic when a good 5w30 major brand (Mobil1, Edge, SYNpower, Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State) will do. If you want to go to an XW40, try Rotella 5W40 or Castrol Edge 0W-40. The Edge comes with very stringent approvals for Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and VW. These approvals aren't even required by Hyundai, turbo or not.

If still under warranty, stick with something that follows Hyundai's recommendation.

Try this tool to compare oil approvals and certifications. Forget about the name on the front of the bottles, the back is where the meat is i.e., ACEA, API, ILSAC, Dexos1, VW..., Porshce..., etc.

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

Again, welcome.
 
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Color is not a good indication of oil quality. Anything that meets the requirements spelled out in your owners manual will be fine for the full OCI suggested by it.

Why are you using a 5w40 in Canada? Any synthetic 5w30 should meet your needs just fine. You could even use M1 0w30
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There's also the European-spec 0/5w30, like Castrol 0w30 and Synpower MST 5w30. Liqui Moly also makes an excellent Euro 5w30. These are on the heavy side of 30, but not quite a 40.
 
I have both tried 5w20 and 5w30. Both give me a lifter tick. 5w40 doesn't. I have a turbo car and that's to be expected I guess. Castrol does bad in our cold conditions -40 degrees . I try to avoid as much friction and wear in the engine. When I used castrol on my engine the revs got to 2500 rpm which is really high. With pennzoil it goes to 1500 rpm. Woth hot weather it goes to 1000 and idles at 800 rpm.
 
Also my car manual states I can use 5w20 5w30 and 5w40 and to stay away from lower weight oil (0w)
 
The 0w20 is just as thick or possibly thicker than 5w20 depending on which you compare.

I think you need to go read the motor oil university.
 
Originally Posted By: Mickxalix
I have both tried 5w20 and 5w30. Both give me a lifter tick. 5w40 doesn't. I have a turbo car and that's to be expected I guess. Castrol does bad in our cold conditions -40 degrees . I try to avoid as much friction and wear in the engine. When I used castrol on my engine the revs got to 2500 rpm which is really high. With pennzoil it goes to 1500 rpm. Woth hot weather it goes to 1000 and idles at 800 rpm.


Take some time and google more bobistheoilguy threads. Type in the Google search window "bitog 0w20 vs 5w20" etc. You will gain invaluable opinions on many topics you appear to be interested in. The brand Castrol has nothing to do with how your car revs etc. "Castrol" has many different oils and formulations. Also, you must have the first generation Genesis Coupe because 5w20 is not recommended any more. Regardless, do the search and you will be happy you did.

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Originally Posted By: Mickxalix
Also my car manual states I can use 5w20 5w30 and 5w40 and to stay away from lower weight oil (0w)

If you want a 5w-40, there is no reason to spend large dollars on what are essentially boutiques in Canada.
 
I worked at BMW dealers and had my own BMW & MB service center for over 20 years, now retired.
My old BMW 535 had over 500,000 on it when I purchased a new car, and new owner is still driving to work every day. I used Liqui Moly Synthoil Premium 5W-40 in this car with very satisfactory results. I removed the head at at about 350,000 miles to do a valve job and engine was CLEAN and could still see cylinder wall hone marks.
I have been using Liqui Moly Synthoil Premium 5W-40 in my VW 2.0 TSI for over 50,000 miles and in my sons Audi 2.0 Turbo for over 40,000 miles.
Change the oil & German filters at around 7,500 miles.
No engine noise from engines when starting & running.
I have looked in crankcase, through oil drain, with inspection borescope and both crankcases areas are spotless clean.
Have done oil sample testing and wear # indicators are very low on both engines.
Have found no reason to change oil brands and pricing is excellent on Amazon at under $39.00 for 5 Liter jug.
 
I just got Valvoline Synpower 5W40 MST in NAPA for BMW. Cannot tell you whether it is good or not, since I never used it, but I plan.
As for LM, nothing special. Average oil from Group III base. I used it before in Europe in some of my vehicles, and it was oil that engine s like to burn. It has fallowing among some people in the U.S> because Liqui Moly spends more money to advertise that it is Made in Germany then to advertise what specifications oil has or what is inside.
Go to Wal mart, get castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40 and you will be more then OK. I use Castrol 0W40 in my wife's Tiguan, and so far of all oils I used in 2.0T VW engines (Castrol 0W30/40, M1 0W40, Pennzoil Ultra 5W40, Pentosin 5W40) Castrol 0W30/40 proved best. It is $22 for 5qt jug in Wal Mart, PAO based, ALSO Made in Germany.
EDIT:
I forgot tow rite. You engine is DI engine. You want Full-SAPS oil, not Low-SAPS or Mid-SAPS.
Valvoline Synpower 5W40 MST is Mid-SAPS Technology (hence: MST) and it has pretty low TBN. It works for diesels (that is why I bought it) but in gasoline engines with DI< you want stout additive package due to high sulfur levels in the U.S. gas.
So if you are buying Euro oil, look for these specs: BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, VW 502.00.
Do not buy oils that have BMW LL-04, MB 229.51, and specially VW 504.00/507.00. Specs like BMW LL-04 and MB 229.51 could be Mid-SAPS and you car might be fin with it, but I would stay away from it.
Porsche C30 and VW 504.00/507.00 are having really low TBN. I tried, and at 3K TBN is already below 2.
So, Castrol 0W40 or M1 0W40 in Wal Mart is your best choice.
 
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Originally Posted By: edyvw
I forgot tow rite. You engine is DI engine.


That 2.0T is different from the Sonata and Santa Fe, it isn't Direct Injection. It is Port Injection.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: edyvw
I forgot tow rite. You engine is DI engine.


That 2.0T is different from the Sonata and Santa Fe, it isn't Direct Injection.


I have no idea about Hyundai engines, I was assuming it is DI.
Then he does not need to worry about carbon deposits etc. so no need for Valvoline MST.
Again, Castrol or Mobil1 0W40. Plus it is Canada, 0W would be my preference.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: edyvw
I forgot tow rite. You engine is DI engine.


That 2.0T is different from the Sonata and Santa Fe, it isn't Direct Injection.


I have no idea about Hyundai engines, I was assuming it is DI.
Then he does not need to worry about carbon deposits etc. so no need for Valvoline MST.
Again, Castrol or Mobil1 0W40. Plus it is Canada, 0W would be my preference.


No worries, i have owned three Hyundai and made the same mistake.

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Originally Posted By: Mickxalix
Also my car manual states I can use 5w20 5w30 and 5w40 and to stay away from lower weight oil (0w)


No it doesn't.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Mickxalix
Also my car manual states I can use 5w20 5w30 and 5w40 and to stay away from lower weight oil (0w)


No it doesn't.

And it definitely doesn't recommend additives.
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The best results I've had from a UOA study from my 1.9 TDI were from using Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech 5w40 (Acea A3/B4) and using half a can of Ceratec improved the figures even more. The figures from using Shell Ultra 5w40 (A3/B4) which I think is similar to Penn Ultra were almost as good, so that's what I use as the Synthoil is expensive. I've not tried any of the Valvoline oils.
 
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