I was going to suggest Raybestos Pro, but you already mention they are not available. Is it only from Rock Auto? If you can get them else ware, I would.
control arm and ball joint - which brand to buy?
- Thread starter tomcat27
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It's tough to find Raybestos Pro for many cars. Moog only sells R-line for control arms, at least for my applications. So, I usually recommend getting the control arms from the dealer. Expensive, but worth it.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Out of this list i would rate the parts like this based on my own experience buying parts sometimes many times a week.
Top tier. Use either one with 100% confidence.
Deeza. I like these parts more every time i use them.
Raybestos Pro. (only pro) Good quality.
Middle.
Bek&Arnley. A repackager. Many times it can be an nice OEM part, other times iffy. 50/50.
Good info there, thanks for posting Trav.
Moog. Racing to the bottom fast. I don't buy them anymore.
Bottom.
Dorman
Mevotech Absolute rubbish control arms, whatever you buy don't buy these.
AC Delco poses a bit of a dilemma to put in a category. Still owned by GM they are distributing many OEM parts for GM with a different part# with a shorter warranty and lower price.
For imports and non GM i am guessing they are a repackager, probably decent stuff though.
Better than Moog in every part i have seen.
Out of this list i would rate the parts like this based on my own experience buying parts sometimes many times a week.
Top tier. Use either one with 100% confidence.
Deeza. I like these parts more every time i use them.
Raybestos Pro. (only pro) Good quality.
Middle.
Bek&Arnley. A repackager. Many times it can be an nice OEM part, other times iffy. 50/50.
Good info there, thanks for posting Trav.
Moog. Racing to the bottom fast. I don't buy them anymore.
Bottom.
Dorman
Mevotech Absolute rubbish control arms, whatever you buy don't buy these.
AC Delco poses a bit of a dilemma to put in a category. Still owned by GM they are distributing many OEM parts for GM with a different part# with a shorter warranty and lower price.
For imports and non GM i am guessing they are a repackager, probably decent stuff though.
Better than Moog in every part i have seen.
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Originally Posted By: HM12460
Originally Posted By: Trav
Out of this list i would rate the parts like this based on my own experience buying parts sometimes many times a week.
Top tier. Use either one with 100% confidence.
Deeza. I like these parts more every time i use them.
Raybestos Pro. (only pro) Good quality.
Middle.
Bek&Arnley. A repackager. Many times it can be an nice OEM part, other times iffy. 50/50.
Good info there. Thanks for posting Trav.
Good info there, thanks for posting Trav.
Moog. Racing to the bottom fast. I don't buy them anymore.
Bottom.
Dorman
Mevotech Absolute rubbish control arms, whatever you buy don't buy these.
AC Delco poses a bit of a dilemma to put in a category. Still owned by GM they are distributing many OEM parts for GM with a different part# with a shorter warranty and lower price.
For imports and non GM i am guessing they are a repackager, probably decent stuff though.
Better than Moog in every part i have seen.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Out of this list i would rate the parts like this based on my own experience buying parts sometimes many times a week.
Top tier. Use either one with 100% confidence.
Deeza. I like these parts more every time i use them.
Raybestos Pro. (only pro) Good quality.
Middle.
Bek&Arnley. A repackager. Many times it can be an nice OEM part, other times iffy. 50/50.
Good info there. Thanks for posting Trav.
Good info there, thanks for posting Trav.
Moog. Racing to the bottom fast. I don't buy them anymore.
Bottom.
Dorman
Mevotech Absolute rubbish control arms, whatever you buy don't buy these.
AC Delco poses a bit of a dilemma to put in a category. Still owned by GM they are distributing many OEM parts for GM with a different part# with a shorter warranty and lower price.
For imports and non GM i am guessing they are a repackager, probably decent stuff though.
Better than Moog in every part i have seen.
I bought a set of Moog front control arms from RockAuto and I've been very happy with them. But to be clear, I bought the upscale "problem solver" series; not the economy version.
I, too, just bought and installed some Moog K series 'problem solver' ball joints for the Mountaineer. They surely looked and felt well-made and I like that they have a 'fail-safe' snap ring to prevent the BJ from backing out.
Only snag was me over-greasing the first one and popping the boot off... that was fun to get back on with grease everywhere. When I installed the next one I put 3 - 4 pumps in and called it good.
Only snag was me over-greasing the first one and popping the boot off... that was fun to get back on with grease everywhere. When I installed the next one I put 3 - 4 pumps in and called it good.
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
Only snag was me over-greasing the first one and popping the boot off... that was fun to get back on with grease everywhere. When I installed the next one I put 3 - 4 pumps in and called it good.
You're lucky the boot popped off and didn't tear. The one on me burst open and so I had to replace the ball joint. My lesson learned: pump grease into the ball joint AFTER the ball joint and control arm are installed and only pump the grease in until I see the grease boot swell up an then stop.
Only snag was me over-greasing the first one and popping the boot off... that was fun to get back on with grease everywhere. When I installed the next one I put 3 - 4 pumps in and called it good.
You're lucky the boot popped off and didn't tear. The one on me burst open and so I had to replace the ball joint. My lesson learned: pump grease into the ball joint AFTER the ball joint and control arm are installed and only pump the grease in until I see the grease boot swell up an then stop.
It probably wasn't your fault. Seriously when you buy Moog (the problem solver seem to have improved but the boots didn't) look at the boot carefully before installing it.
I looked at 3 joints before I found one the boot wasn't damaged on, the machine they use to install the boots damages them almost all the way through, they pop easily when you grease them.
Look at the bottom lip of the boot, this is where the machine does damage. Just another brand you don't buy online, check it out carefully at the store before buying.
Edit: Yes, grease after install not before.
I looked at 3 joints before I found one the boot wasn't damaged on, the machine they use to install the boots damages them almost all the way through, they pop easily when you grease them.
Look at the bottom lip of the boot, this is where the machine does damage. Just another brand you don't buy online, check it out carefully at the store before buying.
Edit: Yes, grease after install not before.
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Whenever an old post about replacement parts surfaces, I find it interesting how brands have changed over the years, usually for the worse.
Deeza, the crown jewel just a few years ago, seems to have most of their parts now made in Taiwan. An email to corporate confirms that there is no way to find the country origin before ordering. Are they bad parts? Probably not, but who knows?
Raybestos pro? Somewhat hard to find, at least in my area.
Beck & Arnley used to claim they were an OEM reseller. Now, by a wider margin, just a reseller.
Moog parts are still decent....if you stay away from their "R" line. Trouble is, most people order Moog on a price point, receive the "R" line, and then complain about the quality of the part.
I feel that Dorman hasn't dropped any further, but that's not really saying anything. (I actually bought a Dorman part awhile back that was a 100% Ford part, complete with the Ford part number. Exception, not the rule)
I can't comment on the demise of AcDelco because I normally don't buy their parts. One of the nearest brick-and-mortar stores near me is an AcDelco parts store, but he carries no inventory.
To me it's really scary that people have their whole family riding in a vehicle that has been fixed by buying the cheapest parts available locally, usually with junk made in China.
Deeza, the crown jewel just a few years ago, seems to have most of their parts now made in Taiwan. An email to corporate confirms that there is no way to find the country origin before ordering. Are they bad parts? Probably not, but who knows?
Raybestos pro? Somewhat hard to find, at least in my area.
Beck & Arnley used to claim they were an OEM reseller. Now, by a wider margin, just a reseller.
Moog parts are still decent....if you stay away from their "R" line. Trouble is, most people order Moog on a price point, receive the "R" line, and then complain about the quality of the part.
I feel that Dorman hasn't dropped any further, but that's not really saying anything. (I actually bought a Dorman part awhile back that was a 100% Ford part, complete with the Ford part number. Exception, not the rule)
I can't comment on the demise of AcDelco because I normally don't buy their parts. One of the nearest brick-and-mortar stores near me is an AcDelco parts store, but he carries no inventory.
To me it's really scary that people have their whole family riding in a vehicle that has been fixed by buying the cheapest parts available locally, usually with junk made in China.
+1 Deeza can be now hit and miss for US and Japanese models. I just got some inner tie rods for a Golf and they are made in Turkey and are good quality.
Most of their stuff for Euro cars is produced in Turkey or by Flennor in Germany.
Its going to get worse for aftermarket parts quality I'm afraid, there are some very high quality parts available but they are usually high priced sometimes more than OE.
Its nothing to drop $500-1K today on parts for a minor job, its crazy.
Most of their stuff for Euro cars is produced in Turkey or by Flennor in Germany.
Its going to get worse for aftermarket parts quality I'm afraid, there are some very high quality parts available but they are usually high priced sometimes more than OE.
Its nothing to drop $500-1K today on parts for a minor job, its crazy.
My choices are rather limited. Mazda MPV as a brand is dying off, and I have seen Mazda OEM arms, quality (at least welding job) is not impressive at all, and for the vintage of a 2000 MPV, chances are the dealer part is also sourced from Chinese manufacturers. Moog does not have K series. So I am gambling, and pulled the trigger on the R-series, at least from the look of it, the welding is better than the Dorman arms. Will see when I get the part. I had the sway bar end links from Moog about 5 years ago, so far so good. I replaced struts on 4 corners last year, all KYBs.
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I probably shouldn't comment in this thread as I don't have much experience with this but in my one experience I used Napa lower control arms on my escape (with ball joint) and they didn't last 40k miles.
I'm trying OEM parts this time around to see if they do better.
I'm trying OEM parts this time around to see if they do better.
I'm curious as to why you are replacing your control arm?
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I'm curious as to why you are replacing your control arm?
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
On this car and other Mazdas, the bushings and ball joint are integrated to the control arm. bushing is torn after 185K miles in 16 years.
I'm curious as to why you are replacing your control arm?
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
On this car and other Mazdas, the bushings and ball joint are integrated to the control arm. bushing is torn after 185K miles in 16 years.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I'm curious as to why you are replacing your control arm?
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
If you are paying for time, replacing the entire assembly is much faster and makes the cost a wash.
I'm curious as to why you are replacing your control arm?
Never had to do one myself, and if all I needed were bushings, I'd replace those and put the control arm back in.
If you are paying for time, replacing the entire assembly is much faster and makes the cost a wash.
I got the big box at noon, it was fast, over night delivery on a flat rate. I did not get a chance to examine them closely at noon. But from the look of it, the arm is well made, smooth painted surface. The welding work is good, the picture on rockauto is faithful. Nice bead of weld runs thru all the seams. Bushing and balljoint seem solid, only time will tell how long they will last. It's the 16th year of ownership, so another 5 years would be sufficient.
A lot of the quality drop happens from parts store buying practices, where you can loose the order over a penny, quality is another department. Then the cheaper parts fail, the vendor (china, india) does not make good and they come crawling back, but demand the china price. Eventually they cave, and buy some, but then race to find another cheap vendor. The will swallow a camel, and choke on the flea. There are some exceptions, they may change tomorrow when the new VP starts, so I will never ever name any.
Many years in the parts industry.
Rod
Many years in the parts industry.
Rod
Originally Posted By: windeye
I got the big box at noon, it was fast, over night delivery on a flat rate. I did not get a chance to examine them closely at noon. But from the look of it, the arm is well made, smooth painted surface. The welding work is good, the picture on rockauto is faithful. Nice bead of weld runs thru all the seams. Bushing and balljoint seem solid, only time will tell how long they will last. It's the 16th year of ownership, so another 5 years would be sufficient.
The first test will come when you go to install it and then have it aligned. Some of the cheap stuff looks good but doesn't fit worth a dam.
I got the big box at noon, it was fast, over night delivery on a flat rate. I did not get a chance to examine them closely at noon. But from the look of it, the arm is well made, smooth painted surface. The welding work is good, the picture on rockauto is faithful. Nice bead of weld runs thru all the seams. Bushing and balljoint seem solid, only time will tell how long they will last. It's the 16th year of ownership, so another 5 years would be sufficient.
The first test will come when you go to install it and then have it aligned. Some of the cheap stuff looks good but doesn't fit worth a dam.
I got all the parts ready, and trying to gather my tools to do the job this weekend. I need all the wish power you got, and if you have any advice, I'll take them as well. esp on removing the nuts/bolt on the rear motor mount, bolts/nuts on the control arm and of course the ball joint.
Things to do:
1. rear motor mount, Westar from rockauto.com
2. sway bar bushing, Moog, from rockauto
3. LCAs, both side, Moog, from rockauto
4. tie-rod outer end, both side, ACDelco Professional, from rockauto
Harbor Freight is out of stock on the thin swivel ratchet. Checking other places.
Things to do:
1. rear motor mount, Westar from rockauto.com
2. sway bar bushing, Moog, from rockauto
3. LCAs, both side, Moog, from rockauto
4. tie-rod outer end, both side, ACDelco Professional, from rockauto
Harbor Freight is out of stock on the thin swivel ratchet. Checking other places.
All okay except the Westar mount, that's a real poor piece. Go OE on mounts only no matter how much difference in price there is, there are no good aftermarket alternatives.
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