I run a 25% mix in summer, but I empty the header tank and fill with concentrate before winter, the same with water after winter. This way I replenish the additives once a year.
Running 60% water and 40% coolant for summer temps
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Originally Posted By: Noey
You have too much time on your hands.
50/50. It optimizes the heat transference properties of the glycol, as well as optimizes the anti corrosion benefits.
There's no optimizing the heat transfer capabilities of the glycol. The higher % of it you use, the less heat transfer your engine cooling system gets. It's 2 major functions are to lower the boiling/freezing points and provide some anti-corrosion chemicals. If heat transfer was all we cared about, we'd run straight water with anti-corrosion chemicals (ie like Water Wetter).
You have too much time on your hands.
50/50. It optimizes the heat transference properties of the glycol, as well as optimizes the anti corrosion benefits.
There's no optimizing the heat transfer capabilities of the glycol. The higher % of it you use, the less heat transfer your engine cooling system gets. It's 2 major functions are to lower the boiling/freezing points and provide some anti-corrosion chemicals. If heat transfer was all we cared about, we'd run straight water with anti-corrosion chemicals (ie like Water Wetter).
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Noey
You have too much time on your hands.
50/50. It optimizes the heat transference properties of the glycol, as well as optimizes the anti corrosion benefits.
There's no optimizing the heat transfer capabilities of the glycol. The higher % of it you use, the less heat transfer your engine cooling system gets. It's 2 major functions are to lower the boiling/freezing points and provide some anti-corrosion chemicals. If heat transfer was all we cared about, we'd run straight water with anti-corrosion chemicals (ie like Water Wetter).
Oops. Meant to say raise boiling, lower freezing points.
Originally Posted By: Noey
You have too much time on your hands.
50/50. It optimizes the heat transference properties of the glycol, as well as optimizes the anti corrosion benefits.
There's no optimizing the heat transfer capabilities of the glycol. The higher % of it you use, the less heat transfer your engine cooling system gets. It's 2 major functions are to lower the boiling/freezing points and provide some anti-corrosion chemicals. If heat transfer was all we cared about, we'd run straight water with anti-corrosion chemicals (ie like Water Wetter).
Oops. Meant to say raise boiling, lower freezing points.
Thanks everyone for your input , I plan on doing a good solid flush to see how much junks comes out, but I been doing an annual flush and just installed a new motorcraft water pump at Xmas. I don't think I have any real issues just prefer to have cooler temps during the summer as Dallas traffic can be brutal at times.
Coolant temperature is about 10-20F higher with stop and go traffic than free flowing highway.
If you have scan gauge or ultra gauge you will see engine temperature drops 5-10F within minute from stop&go to normal speed.
I have ultra gauge, it shows coolant temp in summer is about 3-5F higher than winter on highways and 6-10F higher on surface streets.
If you have scan gauge or ultra gauge you will see engine temperature drops 5-10F within minute from stop&go to normal speed.
I have ultra gauge, it shows coolant temp in summer is about 3-5F higher than winter on highways and 6-10F higher on surface streets.
In my beater, I'm running approx 60/40 dis water to coolant ratio (dex cool), zero issues. I ran 70/30 (water/supertech all makes coolant) in my old S10 with zero issues. You will be fine running 60/40 in TX
My owners manual states 40:60 as an AF
W ratio. S long as there is some anti corrosive in there and it's gets changed it shouldn't really matter outside of the Sahara or the Arctic.
W ratio. S long as there is some anti corrosive in there and it's gets changed it shouldn't really matter outside of the Sahara or the Arctic.
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I truly haven't seen a lot of overheated vehicles stranded on the side of the road like I used to back in the 1970s and 1980s.
Just a quick update as I do plan on doing the flush this coming weekend. I was able to pickup some NAPA Original Green Coolant , also found some Blue Devil Radiator Flush on sale as well a Peak Super Cleaner & Flush along with Distilled water. I plan on letting which ever Flush product I choose to stay in the system for several days as I drive it on our Farm to Market roads letting it get to operating temperture and let it do a really thorough job before I flush it from the system. I am still thinking of going 40/60 coolant to water and change out again the first week of October .
Like mentioned before, I even go 25/75 coolant/water, and just change a bit every fall (suck out about a quart, add a quart of concentrate)
Nick1994
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Almost 100 degrees ain't even warm yet. Let's see that thing drive through Phoenix here in a couple months, then you'll know if the cooling system is working properly!
I've never had an issue running 50/50 in 115 degree heat at 80 mph.
I've never had an issue running 50/50 in 115 degree heat at 80 mph.
Well the weather kinda rained on my parade shall we say , but I was able to get 2 cars flushed and new coolant put in. Just not the Taurus so maybe next weekend. I did the 2007 Chevy Impala and really had a difficult time getting the air bleed out of the coolant system . Some models have a bleeder screw but not on the 3500 V6 engin. I jacked up the car to get the radiator fill higher and just did it the old fashion way of squeezing the upper and lower radiator hose plus a little squeeze on the Heater inlet hose. Let the engine run till the thermostat opened then let it cool down filled some more , burp it some more....took a lot longer than I wanted.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Almost 100 degrees ain't even warm yet. Let's see that thing drive through Phoenix here in a couple months, then you'll know if the cooling system is working properly!
I've never had an issue running 50/50 in 115 degree heat at 80 mph.
But Phoenix is a dry heat. I'd rather be in a dry heat than 100 degrees and 100% humidity lol.
slomo
Almost 100 degrees ain't even warm yet. Let's see that thing drive through Phoenix here in a couple months, then you'll know if the cooling system is working properly!
I've never had an issue running 50/50 in 115 degree heat at 80 mph.
But Phoenix is a dry heat. I'd rather be in a dry heat than 100 degrees and 100% humidity lol.
slomo
Originally Posted By: slomo
What does your manual say for coolant? Does it say 70/30 mix?
Doing the 70/30 lowers anti corrosion protection and water pump lube also. I see no need to run anything but 50/50 like most vehicles are designed to.
slomo
The problem with using a premix of 50/50 is if you used water as a flush. You will never get above a 50% mix that way. I use 70/30 to fill and 50% to top off.
What does your manual say for coolant? Does it say 70/30 mix?
Doing the 70/30 lowers anti corrosion protection and water pump lube also. I see no need to run anything but 50/50 like most vehicles are designed to.
slomo
The problem with using a premix of 50/50 is if you used water as a flush. You will never get above a 50% mix that way. I use 70/30 to fill and 50% to top off.
Originally Posted By: slomo
But Phoenix is a dry heat. I'd rather be in a dry heat than 100 degrees and 100% humidity lol.
Sure I would too, but your radiator will not know the difference between humid and dry.
But Phoenix is a dry heat. I'd rather be in a dry heat than 100 degrees and 100% humidity lol.
Sure I would too, but your radiator will not know the difference between humid and dry.
yes it would.
humid air takes more calories to heat up, so it would be more efficient at cooling the rad.
humid air takes more calories to heat up, so it would be more efficient at cooling the rad.
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