Engine temperature going up & down, bad thermosta?

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Originally Posted By: Rohan
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Biggest "RED" dot


Yes sir


and Fifty Push-ups!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Originally Posted By: Rohan
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Biggest "RED" dot


Yes sir


and Fifty Push-ups!
smile.gif



lol
 
So I bleed the the air again today twice until the fan came on after this I let the car cool down. Then 20 minutes later i fill up the coolant in to the radiator and at this point I also put the cap back on. With the cap on the fans is still coming on at 225F but temperature is only dropping down after it reach at 230F. The fans will turn off at 195F. While during the bleeding process i had the heater on and fan control on also but i get less heat not really warm air. At this point I'm not worry about warm air I'm worry about overheating problem.

Is it really big deal for 5 degrees more will damage the engine slowly?

VIkas,

Can you check on your scan tool at what temperature does fan come on and see if it start dropping the temperature after 230F?
 
I just did the test on the fan switch A again to verify if is a bad switch, using the paperclip and with the key on fans came on. Is this mean I have a bad switch? I just put the switch on about 2 weeks ago. I bought the switch from the Amazon and it said made in China.
 
The Odyssey has two speed fans. I think yours only high speed is working. Do you have the service manual?
 
No I don't have one. I know fan switch A work at only at low speed like; idling or coming to stop. Other one is switch B which is located by underneath a power steering pump and this one come on at 210F. But mine coming on at 225F then temperature gauge inside the car start to rise until 230F( fan is still running) then come down to 195F. Third one is Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor which never been changed.

The only parts that hasn't been changed is fan switch B & Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. I'm sorry I believe fan Switch A is working I freak out for nothing.

I talked to the mechanic on the phone and he said maybe Engine Coolant temperature need to be change and I asked him if he can diagnosis then he didn't say nothing. Also he told me that aftermarket thermostat has nothing to do with it. I told him isn't OEM best to go he said it doesn't matter which thermostat I put in as long it not overheating or stuck open.

If I decided I will change the thermostat with OEM.
 
I will see if I can send you the relevant section from the manual. I recall you had started a topic in Odyclub. Couple of members there can attach the relevant section lot more easily that I can do the attachment job.

Update that topic over there and ask nicely. You WILL get the pages from the service manual and then start following it religiously.

DO NOT GO ON PART REPLACEMENT PATH WITHOUT THAT.
 
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I was gonna go ahead replace the thermostat with the OEM because I do not know which one I have in there.
 
For fan not coming on etc you need the factory flow chart. Can you determine if the thermostat is open or closed? It would be still very difficult to know if it is fully open or partially opened.

Putting the OEM thermostat is worth a shot as it is moderately priced and you already know how to change it. But if you should check relays and switches before replacing them.
 
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I took of the thermostat, it was not installed correctly , and jiggle valve was not at 12:00. I'm going to to install the OEM Honda Thermostat tomorrow.
 
I slap my forehead; I should have remembered that one! This should solve your temperature issues now.
 
By the way, did your mechanic installed it incorrectly? It was very rookie mistake and an experienced mechanic should not be doing that one at all.
 
I'm sorry for not posting back. Cel came back on after week later for P0170 &P0172 and car is still overheating at idling. If the hood is closed it will overheat quick. I believe maybe both fans is not getting enough flow or water pump is bad. If I'm reving the engine the temperature will decrease. For the cel I'm thinking maybe the front 02 sensor is going old or weak bank 1 sensor 1. I don't think I need the Vavle adjustments because it not making any noise on the valve and FPR already is new.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
By the way, did your mechanic installed it incorrectly? It was very rookie mistake and an experienced mechanic should not be doing that one at all.


Yes he did.
 
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I don't think I need the Vavle adjustments because it not making any noise on the valve
That is NOT true. No noise means valve could be too tight which is very bad.
 
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