I inspected cleaned and lubed the mechanisms.
The one C track which the wheel rolls in at the bottom of the window had lots of hardened grease and the wheel was not rolling over this area, just sliding, and there was some rust where the grease had been displaced.
Wire brush and oshpo and a mini chisel returned it to gleaming steel status, and I lubed it with some white lithium grease.
The wheel itself was kind of crusty and refused to spin cleanly and I flushed it with some brake Kleen and worked it loose, then filled the bearing with WLG and got it so spin nice and clean
The channels got some silicone spray on some q tips to clean out the crud, then some syl-glide applied. All hinge points got a squirt or 2 of WLG applied with window up and window down , along with the door lock and surrounding mechanisms.
The main electrical connectors at the motor, door lock solenoid and 6x9 kenwood speaker got some Caig Deoxit d5 spray applied to the conductive surfaces although they were still appearing in good condition.
It is certainly much much faster, quieter and smoother, especially going up, but still seems a bit weak lowering the window, as if it is having issues fighting the coiled spring.
The temporary duct tape was not a factor. I was in a rush 10 years ago when i adhered the glass into the C channel and did not want the adhesive sealant sticking to the upper part of the window frame with window closed, so i covered it with ducttape, and it was still there, shrivelled and dried up, but not causing any binding.
So if the motor is failing and it appears to be the original from 1988, it likely will just take longer to do so now as its task has been made easier by the cleaning and lubrication and possibly higher voltage reaching the motor.
I guess the other door should get the same maintenance too
The one C track which the wheel rolls in at the bottom of the window had lots of hardened grease and the wheel was not rolling over this area, just sliding, and there was some rust where the grease had been displaced.
Wire brush and oshpo and a mini chisel returned it to gleaming steel status, and I lubed it with some white lithium grease.
The wheel itself was kind of crusty and refused to spin cleanly and I flushed it with some brake Kleen and worked it loose, then filled the bearing with WLG and got it so spin nice and clean
The channels got some silicone spray on some q tips to clean out the crud, then some syl-glide applied. All hinge points got a squirt or 2 of WLG applied with window up and window down , along with the door lock and surrounding mechanisms.
The main electrical connectors at the motor, door lock solenoid and 6x9 kenwood speaker got some Caig Deoxit d5 spray applied to the conductive surfaces although they were still appearing in good condition.
It is certainly much much faster, quieter and smoother, especially going up, but still seems a bit weak lowering the window, as if it is having issues fighting the coiled spring.
The temporary duct tape was not a factor. I was in a rush 10 years ago when i adhered the glass into the C channel and did not want the adhesive sealant sticking to the upper part of the window frame with window closed, so i covered it with ducttape, and it was still there, shrivelled and dried up, but not causing any binding.
So if the motor is failing and it appears to be the original from 1988, it likely will just take longer to do so now as its task has been made easier by the cleaning and lubrication and possibly higher voltage reaching the motor.
I guess the other door should get the same maintenance too
