No matter what oil you use in a Suzuki c50 and no matter what you do, you will be burning oil after 20,000 and thinking about new rings after 40,000 and those are water cooled..
Conv or syn doesnt matter.
Conv or syn doesnt matter.
Mobil 1 and Harley Davidson questions
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Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They didn't...like vintage British bikes, people just accepted regular overhauls!
Funny, cause I have seen Shovelheads with with very high mileage (north of 70k) that have never seen synthetic or been overhauled.
It is more about build quality, design, and material quality than oil sometimes when it comes to lifespan of an engine.
They didn't...like vintage British bikes, people just accepted regular overhauls!
Funny, cause I have seen Shovelheads with with very high mileage (north of 70k) that have never seen synthetic or been overhauled.
It is more about build quality, design, and material quality than oil sometimes when it comes to lifespan of an engine.
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
They didn't...like vintage British bikes, people just accepted regular overhauls!
You just are a Harley hater.. Here's a sportster with 183,000 miles and still running strong..
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1976771
They didn't...like vintage British bikes, people just accepted regular overhauls!
You just are a Harley hater.. Here's a sportster with 183,000 miles and still running strong..
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1976771
You are still a known Harley hater.
You are still a known Harley hater. Not only on this form but others.
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Thought you might be bright enough and honest enough to figure it out, should have known better: the Sportster with 183,000 miles has gotten nothing but synthetic oil since 20K!
The H-D Evolution is an excellent engine...too bad they replaced it with the dreadful TC in the big bikes.
The H-D Evolution is an excellent engine...too bad they replaced it with the dreadful TC in the big bikes.
Syn 3 is nothing but a group III refined mineral oil made by Citco. And he didn't post that till after I posted smart boy.
Gotta love the [censored] spewed in these HD threads. The OP is looking for opinions so here's mine from the experience of having owned and built multiple HD engines over a
40 plus year period.
1st, lets clear up this "synthetic" nonsense. Only in the USA, is hydro-cracked mineral oil labled and sold as "full synthetic", so if you're buying HD "syn" you are not buying or getting synthetic oil. Only group IV, PAO and group V, esters are true
synthetics...shame on our government for letting oil companies label hydro-cracked
crude as "full synthetic"
Back to the OP's request for opinions on what to use in HD's. Personally I evolved over the years to using Redline in both the crank and primary. Why? two reasons...
Nothing else I used ever made my HD transmissions shift slicker, snappier and with
a distinct "Snick" than Redline Shockproof. (I personally hate clunky shifts and
sloppy clutch separation and take-up) Second reason: Redline products are pure
ester blends. Ester molecules are polar. Polar molecules are magnetically attracted to metal....mineral oil molecules are not. Ester oils are more slippery and have superior cold flow properties as compared to mineral oils...since most engine wear occurs at start/warm-up ester provides the best protection at start-up/warm-up. Last,
Ester's really quiet down mechanical noise in engines and transmissions. Over the years, Redline has developed what I consider to be the best "additive package" specifically for long stroke, big bore motors.
Bottom line is use whatever you want and with HD's...Change it before you're supposed too! and I'm sure you'll get an acceptable service life.
40 plus year period.
1st, lets clear up this "synthetic" nonsense. Only in the USA, is hydro-cracked mineral oil labled and sold as "full synthetic", so if you're buying HD "syn" you are not buying or getting synthetic oil. Only group IV, PAO and group V, esters are true
synthetics...shame on our government for letting oil companies label hydro-cracked
crude as "full synthetic"
Back to the OP's request for opinions on what to use in HD's. Personally I evolved over the years to using Redline in both the crank and primary. Why? two reasons...
Nothing else I used ever made my HD transmissions shift slicker, snappier and with
a distinct "Snick" than Redline Shockproof. (I personally hate clunky shifts and
sloppy clutch separation and take-up) Second reason: Redline products are pure
ester blends. Ester molecules are polar. Polar molecules are magnetically attracted to metal....mineral oil molecules are not. Ester oils are more slippery and have superior cold flow properties as compared to mineral oils...since most engine wear occurs at start/warm-up ester provides the best protection at start-up/warm-up. Last,
Ester's really quiet down mechanical noise in engines and transmissions. Over the years, Redline has developed what I consider to be the best "additive package" specifically for long stroke, big bore motors.
Bottom line is use whatever you want and with HD's...Change it before you're supposed too! and I'm sure you'll get an acceptable service life.
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If you like Ester there is also the Maxima, which has some pure ester oils. Just used their ester fortified Pro Plus in my Triumph along with a Hi Flo filter and so far the bike really likes it.
Originally Posted By: JonfromCB
Gotta love the [censored] spewed in these HD threads. The OP is looking for opinions so here's mine from the experience of having owned and built multiple HD engines over a
40 plus year period.
1st, lets clear up this "synthetic" nonsense. Only in the USA, is hydro-cracked mineral oil labled and sold as "full synthetic", so if you're buying HD "syn" you are not buying or getting synthetic oil. Only group IV, PAO and group V, esters are true
synthetics...shame on our government for letting oil companies label hydro-cracked
crude as "full synthetic"
Back to the OP's request for opinions on what to use in HD's. Personally I evolved over the years to using Redline in both the crank and primary. Why? two reasons...
Nothing else I used ever made my HD transmissions shift slicker, snappier and with
a distinct "Snick" than Redline Shockproof. (I personally hate clunky shifts and
sloppy clutch separation and take-up) Second reason: Redline products are pure
ester blends. Ester molecules are polar. Polar molecules are magnetically attracted to metal....mineral oil molecules are not. Ester oils are more slippery and have superior cold flow properties as compared to mineral oils...since most engine wear occurs at start/warm-up ester provides the best protection at start-up/warm-up. Last,
Ester's really quiet down mechanical noise in engines and transmissions. Over the years, Redline has developed what I consider to be the best "additive package" specifically for long stroke, big bore motors.
Bottom line is use whatever you want and with HD's...Change it before you're supposed too! and I'm sure you'll get an acceptable service life.
Just put RL 20w50 along with shockproof in my 2006 fltri. I am convinced it's unbeaten. Trans Never shifted as smooth as it does,now.
Ester, redline = love, true love
Gotta love the [censored] spewed in these HD threads. The OP is looking for opinions so here's mine from the experience of having owned and built multiple HD engines over a
40 plus year period.
1st, lets clear up this "synthetic" nonsense. Only in the USA, is hydro-cracked mineral oil labled and sold as "full synthetic", so if you're buying HD "syn" you are not buying or getting synthetic oil. Only group IV, PAO and group V, esters are true
synthetics...shame on our government for letting oil companies label hydro-cracked
crude as "full synthetic"
Back to the OP's request for opinions on what to use in HD's. Personally I evolved over the years to using Redline in both the crank and primary. Why? two reasons...
Nothing else I used ever made my HD transmissions shift slicker, snappier and with
a distinct "Snick" than Redline Shockproof. (I personally hate clunky shifts and
sloppy clutch separation and take-up) Second reason: Redline products are pure
ester blends. Ester molecules are polar. Polar molecules are magnetically attracted to metal....mineral oil molecules are not. Ester oils are more slippery and have superior cold flow properties as compared to mineral oils...since most engine wear occurs at start/warm-up ester provides the best protection at start-up/warm-up. Last,
Ester's really quiet down mechanical noise in engines and transmissions. Over the years, Redline has developed what I consider to be the best "additive package" specifically for long stroke, big bore motors.
Bottom line is use whatever you want and with HD's...Change it before you're supposed too! and I'm sure you'll get an acceptable service life.
Just put RL 20w50 along with shockproof in my 2006 fltri. I am convinced it's unbeaten. Trans Never shifted as smooth as it does,now.
Ester, redline = love, true love
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