Oil Help Needed for a Not Fully Break-In VW Engine

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Hi all,
I read many threads here and am very impressed by the knowledge that you guys have. I really need some help in choosing oil for my VW EA888 Gen 3 TSI. The following is the situation:

1. I purchased my car a year ago and barely drive it. The dealer dumped the factory-filled oil and put in fresh Castrol Edge 5w-40 at the end of the first year as my first-year free oil change. Odometer reading on the day when the dealer oil was filled was 359 miles.
2. My car currently has 500 miles on it. However, I hate the dearler oil. My car is slightly less powerful and definitely noiser (so not very smooth) at higher RPM with the dealer oil. I can also hear valve tapping sound at cold start which does concern me a lot.
3. I live in Upper Arlington, Ohio, which sometimes has harsh winter (single-digit temperature and wind).

Here are my questions:
1. Did I dump my factory-filled oil too early? In other words, did I dump the additive that helps engine break-in too soon? How can I rescue situation? Add oil treatment or change to a new oil immediately?
2. I want to change my oil soon due to the fact that I really cannot stand the domestic-made Castrol Edge. Which oil should I use for a not fully break-in engine?
3. My first candidate is, of course, Castrol Edge 0W-40 (or M1). However, I heard that I should NOT use 40-weight oils as they are too thick for a not break-in engine. Is this some sort of nonsense for modern engine? I really want to provide my engine excellent protection and make it smoother as well as quieter at the sometime.
4. Should I go for a 5w-30 oil for a not fully break-in engine as it is thinner? Any recommendation? Fuel dilution should not be a big problem for me. I barely drive my car and thus oil change interval is about 1500 miles per year.
5. I drive my car every 30 miles per week in one trip to make sure that the engine is lubricated and the oil is at operation temperature for at least 30 minutes. The only concern is that starting the car once per week is a very cold start and oils are settled down at the bottom of the sump. If friends here can recommend oil that can also help my reduce cold start wear, that will be really great.

Sorry for such a long and complicated post. Thank you guys so much.
 
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OP, how many vehicles do you have? How do you get to and from work, shopping, friends, errands, trips?
 
I believe the factory oil is a 5-40 synthetic, as is the Castrol Edge. I think your car is used so infrequently all the oil from the valve train drains away, so when you start they are not lubricated.
 
Maybe he has other vehicles?

I'm not using much the Barchetta in my sig, maybe 2000Km/Year. I try to use it once a week, but I live in a rainy place so sometimes I only take it once every two weeks or so. I used M1 0W40 and now Motul 300V 0W40, no startup issue, no particular noise (valves, tappets, etc) at startup.

OP if really you drive ~150 miles per year, then maybe you don't really need this car?
 
Forget everything you have heard,,, engines mostly can not help but to break in! Oil really doesn't have much to do with the break in.If you want to do something positive drive the engine until the engine is at operating temps maybe ten miles at freeway speed and then when safe do several wide open throttle acceleration from slow speeds to the speed limit up the free way on ramps where and when safe to do so.
 
1. Did I dump my factory-filled oil too early? In other words, did I dump the additive that helps engine break-in too soon? How can I rescue situation? Add oil treatment or change to a new oil immediately?

I don't think VW uses any special break-in additives. I wouldn't worry about dumping the oil early - just do not add anything to the oil.

2. I want to change my oil soon due to the fact that I really cannot stand the domestic-made Castrol Edge. Which oil should I use for a not fully break-in engine?

Forget the break in. Go with German Castrol Edge 0W-40.

3. My first candidate is, of course, Castrol Edge 0W-40 (or M1). However, I heard that I should NOT use 40-weight oils as they are too thick for a not break-in engine. Is this some sort of nonsense for modern engine? I really want to provide my engine excellent protection and make it smoother as well as quieter at the sometime.

Rubbish.

4. Should I go for a 5w-30 oil for a not fully break-in engine as it is thinner? Any recommendation? Fuel dilution should not be a big problem for me. I barely drive my car and thus oil change interval is about 1500 miles per year.

See #2.
 
I have a feeling the problem is not so much the oil, but the fact that the car sat so long and needs to be driven. I'd probably use Mobil 1 0W40 in the car, but like I said it needs to be driven.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
1. Did I dump my factory-filled oil too early? In other words, did I dump the additive that helps engine break-in too soon? How can I rescue situation? Add oil treatment or change to a new oil immediately?

I don't think VW uses any special break-in additives. I wouldn't worry about dumping the oil early - just do not add anything to the oil.

2. I want to change my oil soon due to the fact that I really cannot stand the domestic-made Castrol Edge. Which oil should I use for a not fully break-in engine?

Forget the break in. Go with German Castrol Edge 0W-40.

3. My first candidate is, of course, Castrol Edge 0W-40 (or M1). However, I heard that I should NOT use 40-weight oils as they are too thick for a not break-in engine. Is this some sort of nonsense for modern engine? I really want to provide my engine excellent protection and make it smoother as well as quieter at the sometime.

Rubbish.

4. Should I go for a 5w-30 oil for a not fully break-in engine as it is thinner? Any recommendation? Fuel dilution should not be a big problem for me. I barely drive my car and thus oil change interval is about 1500 miles per year.

See #2.


OP, listen to Falcon, good advice.

I would use M1 0W-40 or Castrol Edge 0W-40.
 
Just did an oil/filter change using Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 on my Golf. IMO, this is a better oil than the either the Castrol 0w-30/40 I was previously using. (One time I had used the Castrol 5w-40 and I was not impressed w/this oil.) Have some Valvoline MST 5w-40 oil in waiting so I can't comment on this oil vs. the other oils I've used. I'd say try the Pennzoil...
 
I imagine the tapping is from not driving this car enough. It needs to be actually driven daily for a bit to break in. at the rate of 500 miles a year it could take 5 years to properly break in.
 
The DI injectors in this and many modern engines are quite loud. Its likely you're hearing that.

Why are you not driving it? Why buy a new car and pay thousands to depreciation and never drive it? Its not appreciating by keeping the miles low. It is costing you money to let it sit there.

VW warranty is only 3/36k - don't you want to try and iron out any issues (by driving the vehicle) while you still have a warranty?

Were you traveling / stationed overseas? and now will drive it more?

Don't worry about any engine noise. Worry about getting your money's worth out of your car!
 
Most vehicle manufacturers engines of today don't need a "break in" cycle. This is a throw back to the carburetor days when specific oil was used with cast iron rings to allow them to "seat in" as the factories did not operate vehicle engines, other than to drive them off the assembly line.

Today the matchup and machining of components is far better than yesteryear. Most manufacturers today "burn in" engines before mounting them in the vehicle. All engines must pass calibration requirements for emissions prior to being released to the public. I is not to the manufacturers benefit to perform this calibration after installing the engine in the vehicle.

Example from test stand manufacturer:
https://www.winemantech.com/campaign/engine-hot-test/

Since you don't drive the vehicle that often, My suggestion would be to use an engine oil grade specified by the manufacturer and change it according to the "Severe Service" interval defined by the manufacturer.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kzac
Most vehicle manufacturers engines of today don't need a "break in" cycle. This is a throw back to the carburetor days when specific oil was used with cast iron rings to allow them to "seat in" as the factories did not operate vehicle engines, other than to drive them off the assembly line.

Today the matchup and machining of components is far better than yesteryear. Most manufacturers today "burn in" engines before mounting them in the vehicle. All engines must pass calibration requirements for emissions prior to being released to the public. I is not to the manufacturers benefit to perform this calibration after installing the engine in the vehicle.

Example from test stand manufacturer:
https://www.winemantech.com/campaign/engine-hot-test/

Since you don't drive the vehicle that often, My suggestion would be to use an engine oil grade specified by the manufacturer and change it according to the "Severe Service" interval defined by the manufacturer.

BMW clearly states in the manual how to break in engine. Also, some problems on V8 twin turbo are attributed to non existent break in, meaning not much driving on hwy.
 
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