5w20 vs 5w30

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I have been using synthetic 5w30 in my 05 Civic that calls for 5w20. I figured it would help to protect the engine a little better at the cost of a negligible fuel economy loss. I see no reason why it would hurt. I understand that it was designed for 5w20, but I heard that the only reason that all the manufacturers switched to thinner oil was for fuel economy and not engine protection. What would you suggest for engine protection? Maybe 0w30 for lower start up viscosity and faster circulation in cold weather than 5w30? Any opinions welcome.
 
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Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
0W-30 Mobil I

+1, year round. I use the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W30 for my Corolla, changed every 6 months with a Wix filter. I just started using this about 6 months ago.
 
0W probably wont do anything for you unless you are in the deep-deep freeze. If you believe VE don't do harm the go for a vi 170+ lube. The VI is more important for "start up flow" than the winter # which is all certified below -25C on ilsac grades.

Unless you are having tonnes of below ZERO starts the W number is mostly irrelevant.

There is WAY more to consider for warmup "protection" than cold flow/ vis. There are oil bases that don't de-wet and provide inherent lubricity on start/warmup cycle.
Good luck learning all of this.
 
Hondas have went 400,000 miles on 5W20 or 20W50. Most models are just not that viscosity sensitive.

If you short trip alot I would lean toward 20 grade and if my average trip was 20+ miles I would lean toward 30 grade. If I lived somewhere with extreme heat in summer I would lean toward 30. Extreme cold lean toward 0W.

Unless you live in an extreme climate with abnormal driving conditions the difference is negligible. IE Short winter trips in Barrow Alaska or 3 hour summer jaunts in Death Valley.
 
My fill cap has "5w-20" and Hyundai recommends Quaker State.
I use PYB 5w-30. 105k and the engine is still under the hood.
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Hondas have went 400,000 miles on 5W20 or 20W50. Most models are just not that viscosity sensitive.

If you short trip alot I would lean toward 20 grade and if my average trip was 20+ miles I would lean toward 30 grade. If I lived somewhere with extreme heat in summer I would lean toward 30. Extreme cold lean toward 0W.

Unless you live in an extreme climate with abnormal driving conditions the difference is negligible. IE Short winter trips in Barrow Alaska or 3 hour summer jaunts in Death Valley.


Well said mate.
 
But is 5w30 really going to provide any better engine protection? Is it just myth or any evidence behind it? or is it just old wives tale?
If no proof exists that 5w30 going to provide better protection compared to 5w20 then why bother deviating from the recommendated spec?
I am in the same boat. Running 5w20 ...Recommended is 5w20 In a 2003 Honda accord...in Canada
 
How much time do these engines spend over 4K on the tach? If they are living at 6K+ a lot, I'd lean toward the 30, or even a 40. If not, run whatever you want that is within world spec for that motor ...
 
Not the Hondas these days they have lots of engine problems both the 4 cyl and the 6 cyl have big time ring issues. Im friendly with one of the engine guys that used to work for me and he does lots of em...
Because of the class action lawsuits Honda was forced to give a 125,000 mile warranty on some of their engines.
 
There is very little a 5w20 will do that a 5w30 won't do as well or better. About the only possible advantage to the 5w20 is cold starts and it is small, you can easily find 5w30's with better cold crank abilities than say a 5w20 dino. I will take the 5w30 thank you.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
There is very little a 5w20 will do that a 5w30 won't do as well or better. About the only possible advantage to the 5w20 is cold starts and it is small, you can easily find 5w30's with better cold crank abilities than say a 5w20 dino. I will take the 5w30 thank you.


So what's the advantage of a 30wt over a 20wt then? I may very well have been using 0-20 longer than most here,(used M1 5-20 in the late 70s in an engine calling fo 10-30) and have found it to be outstanding in all temps. I like the way my engines start in cold temps and perform in hot temps. My engines use no oil between OCIs and both are very clean through the oil fill hole, so the 20wt isn't showing any signs of oxidizing, or do my engines show signs of wear. This is all at 10K OCI's. Now if my engines called for a 30wt then I would use 5-30 in this day and age. You simply can't prove your point that a 30wt is better for your engine if it calls for a 20. Now opinions are just that, opinions.
 
My 2002 calls for a 20 grade. It was designed 10 yrs earlier for 30 grade use and stayed that way to 2000. I'd say that's proof enough that a 30 grade is just fine for that identical engine in 2000 and later models.

Is there any proof that a 20 grade protects better than a 30 grade? Do the OEM's run all their tests out to 300K miles on both grades? If I lived in a warmer climate with mild winters, I'd want the 30 grade for hot summer use. You can do your 1 yr OCI's with 30 grade in spring so that by winter it's sheared down to nearly a 20 grade any ways. Pick a weaker 30 grade to boot.
 
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