I posted a few days ago about a possible leaking heater core in my 01 s10. Well, I have more to add to the list of problems with this truck. In addition to the heater core, I hit a pot hole and now the truck pulls heavily to the right (alignment, shop would be doing this), the check engine light is on for an evap leak which would need to be found and fixed to pass emissions, which I need to do soon. The ABS light is on now with a c0226 right front speed sensor issue. The passenger front brake squeals like a banshee, doesn't affect performance of the breaks, but is annoying to hear all the time. The body looks like [censored] with all the rust, frame is still solid though. I think it time to move on from this vehicle and look at something else, the tuck is worth $1000 if I am lucky in it present condition, repairs would cost equal to or more than that amount (I don't have the time to mess with the heater core or the smoke machine to find the evap leak, so a shop would be doing those items). Looking for opinions here. Is it time to move on or repair the issues?
Is it time to move on?
- Thread starter bprat318
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Sounds like typical stuff for an older truck that hasn't been kept up.
Probably just needs a vacuum hose or a gas cap for the evap code.
The pulling to the left means you bent something. An alignment isn't going to properly fix it, it might need a control arm or tie rod.
Throw some $20 brake pads on it.
Probably just needs a vacuum hose or a gas cap for the evap code.
The pulling to the left means you bent something. An alignment isn't going to properly fix it, it might need a control arm or tie rod.
Throw some $20 brake pads on it.
Let's be generous and say the repairs,done right, will cost $2000. The question you have to ask yourself is; Could I buy another vehicle for $2000, that would be in better shape that my repaired truck?
Originally Posted By: azjake
Let's be generous and say the repairs,done right, will cost $2000. The question you have to ask yourself is; Could I buy another vehicle for $2000, that would be in better shape that my repaired truck?
A better question is can you put the $2000 towards another vehicle that will give you a lower cost per mile. No point fixing the truck if it's going to need additional expensive repairs in the future.
Put the $2000 towards a $10000 truck and you should be set for the next 100,000 miles.
Let's be generous and say the repairs,done right, will cost $2000. The question you have to ask yourself is; Could I buy another vehicle for $2000, that would be in better shape that my repaired truck?
A better question is can you put the $2000 towards another vehicle that will give you a lower cost per mile. No point fixing the truck if it's going to need additional expensive repairs in the future.
Put the $2000 towards a $10000 truck and you should be set for the next 100,000 miles.
It's a truck, it has a certain bottom dollar worth that's more than a car of the same vintage.
If I had it, I'd obviously check for a hazardous control arm but there's lots of thread on tie rod ends, and you can set the toe with a laser level resting on the front tire pointing at the rear.
If I had it, I'd obviously check for a hazardous control arm but there's lots of thread on tie rod ends, and you can set the toe with a laser level resting on the front tire pointing at the rear.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: azjake
Let's be generous and say the repairs,done right, will cost $2000. The question you have to ask yourself is; Could I buy another vehicle for $2000, that would be in better shape that my repaired truck?
A better question is can you put the $2000 towards another vehicle that will give you a lower cost per mile. No point fixing the truck if it's going to need additional expensive repairs in the future.
Put the $2000 towards a $10000 truck and you should be set for the next 100,000 miles.
Doubtful. Given the price escalation on trucks these days, a $10k truck will likely need $1k in tires before too long, and will likely need a good deal more maintenance before too long to be questionable for 100k. Maybe 25-50k.
Originally Posted By: azjake
Let's be generous and say the repairs,done right, will cost $2000. The question you have to ask yourself is; Could I buy another vehicle for $2000, that would be in better shape that my repaired truck?
A better question is can you put the $2000 towards another vehicle that will give you a lower cost per mile. No point fixing the truck if it's going to need additional expensive repairs in the future.
Put the $2000 towards a $10000 truck and you should be set for the next 100,000 miles.
Doubtful. Given the price escalation on trucks these days, a $10k truck will likely need $1k in tires before too long, and will likely need a good deal more maintenance before too long to be questionable for 100k. Maybe 25-50k.
Assuming $2,000 in repairs and you can get $1,000 for the current truck you would actually have $3,000 to put towards another one. I would consider moving on unless I really loved the truck and had time to work on it myself. Brake job alone could easily be $6-800 depending on if it needs rotors and maybe calipers. DIY way less and normally better.
Does sound like it's time to move on. But saving the $2k in repairs and adding in the $1k selling price likely won't buy you something much better, at least not in truck form. If the sheetmetal isn't that far gone you may be better off repairing it.
If you have time to fool with it you almost always are better off to repair than replace.
If not move on.
9-10k will get you a Clean 8yo 120,000 mile Reg Cab V6 Full Size with 50% rubber around here. But not from a dealer.
If not move on.
9-10k will get you a Clean 8yo 120,000 mile Reg Cab V6 Full Size with 50% rubber around here. But not from a dealer.
Quote:
01 S10
Pickup or S10 Blazer? Chevrolet, or GMC?
Two door or four door?
4WD?
Trim level?
Pic?
Likely a 4.3L. You have the "good" Spider Injection version. Miles?
Fully loaded? Tow package?
Any accidents?
01 S10
Pickup or S10 Blazer? Chevrolet, or GMC?
Two door or four door?
4WD?
Trim level?
Pic?
Likely a 4.3L. You have the "good" Spider Injection version. Miles?
Fully loaded? Tow package?
Any accidents?
This is all easy stuff and nothing to throw the truck away over. You say the fame is good, that most of the battle won right there.
If you can do the work yourself by all means keep it. Having to pay shop rates might be another story. It's hard to tell w/o seeing and checking the vehicle. What you described is not hard work, but paying a shop might be the deal breaker.
Originally Posted By: Turbo_Lemming
Quote:
01 S10
Pickup or S10 Blazer? Chevrolet, or GMC?
Two door or four door?
4WD?
Trim level?
Pic?
Likely a 4.3L. You have the "good" Spider Injection version. Miles?
Fully loaded? Tow package?
Any accidents?
Chevy s10 pickup 2wd, 4.3L no tow package, LS trim, 137000 miles. Replaced the spider injectors 3 years ago with BWD injector assembly. 3 door extended cab. One minor fender bender before I bought it 4 years ago.
Quote:
01 S10
Pickup or S10 Blazer? Chevrolet, or GMC?
Two door or four door?
4WD?
Trim level?
Pic?
Likely a 4.3L. You have the "good" Spider Injection version. Miles?
Fully loaded? Tow package?
Any accidents?
Chevy s10 pickup 2wd, 4.3L no tow package, LS trim, 137000 miles. Replaced the spider injectors 3 years ago with BWD injector assembly. 3 door extended cab. One minor fender bender before I bought it 4 years ago.
Moving on is a question that only you can really answer. If it were mine, there's no way that I'd invest any more money into it. It's just an old S10-not something with any real value, and in my opinion, if it's not dependable enough to jump in and drive across the country then it is not a vehicle that I want.
If it weren't rusty it might be worth making repairs if you can do them yourself. But add the rust issues on top of all the other repairs, and it may be more than you want to deal with.
If it weren't rusty it might be worth making repairs if you can do them yourself. But add the rust issues on top of all the other repairs, and it may be more than you want to deal with.
JHZR2
Staff member
Rust is the big determinant. My 91 318i I said until the very end that Id hop in and go on a 1000 mile trip without thinking twice. I lived that too. But it had body rust so I let it go. Bummer as E30s are still popular, and it was great to drive.
My 98 S-10 is showing some surface rust in a few spots underneath. Fortunately the one frame component that had some rust on the welds is a bolt-in part that holds one end of the torsion bars. ill fix it, but if it got bad, Id find a good one from the desert. Fortunately for mine, the cab, interior, engine, etc. is all spectacular. A little dirty in a few spots especially with the maples dropping all their junk, but great shape. If it were mine, Id fix it in the blink of an eye. If yours is all rusty, I think it is time to move on.
My 98 S-10 is showing some surface rust in a few spots underneath. Fortunately the one frame component that had some rust on the welds is a bolt-in part that holds one end of the torsion bars. ill fix it, but if it got bad, Id find a good one from the desert. Fortunately for mine, the cab, interior, engine, etc. is all spectacular. A little dirty in a few spots especially with the maples dropping all their junk, but great shape. If it were mine, Id fix it in the blink of an eye. If yours is all rusty, I think it is time to move on.
Rusty, 15 year old ute that needs a couple of grand spent on it? Yep, time to move on.
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