Break-In Additive for fresh-honed cylinders req'd?

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Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Thanks for the help guys...
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For those that aren't familiar, the toyota 1JZ engine is a 2.5L turbo inline 6 that came in many Japanese toyota cars. Very popular upgrade here in the states. It is essentially a de-stroked 3.0L Mk4 Supra engine.

E46 is a 99-06 BMW 3 series.


I thought that was a cross-breed swap, but have never heard of anybody putting a Toyota engine in a BMW.
Seems like the Luftwaffe will fly over and bomb your house into rubble for that.
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How much is the engine built up for higher power? Higher lift cams with higher load valve springs would require break-in. Is the 1JZ a slider or roller lifter engine?



It is actually becoming a very popular swap for the E36 and E46 chassis (3 series). The engines are relatively cheap, and the bottom-ends can hold north of 600HP with ease thanks to factory forged internals. A guy local here has a 2JZ swapped into his early 90s 5 series.

The cams (272 duration), valve springs (increased seat pressure), and retainers (titanium) are all new. It is a slider style cam, with the camshaft sitting on top of buckets (which hold a shim). The cam actually makes contact/slides on the shim, which rests on the top of the bucket. Some of the shims are new, some are re-used.


OK, higher load valve springs on slider follower cams. Are you running used shims on new cam lobes? Don't do that.
Definitely a need for a high-ZDDP break-in oil.
The honed cylinders don't need it as much as the valvetrain.

Check out the Joe Gibbs Driven website for their break-in oil system. They seem to have a good system figured out where they are using ZDDP that coats the wear surfaces at lower temperatures to quickly build up a protective layer. And when you first run the engine, don't let it run at idle speed, get it up to 2500 rpm or so to reduce the cam contact stress due to high spring load.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
OK, higher load valve springs on slider follower cams. Are you running used shims on new cam lobes? Don't do that.
Definitely a need for a high-ZDDP break-in oil.
The honed cylinders don't need it as much as the valvetrain.

Check out the Joe Gibbs Driven website for their break-in oil system. They seem to have a good system figured out where they are using ZDDP that coats the wear surfaces at lower temperatures to quickly build up a protective layer. And when you first run the engine, don't let it run at idle speed, get it up to 2500 rpm or so to reduce the cam contact stress due to high spring load.


A couple of the buckets have used shims. They are pretty wide lobes though, wider than most I've seen. I have a bottle of Lucas break-in additive a friend gave me, so I think I'll use that. Says its ZDDP fortified. This engine won't see much in the way of mileage/idling. Mainly just track time.
 
How did you clean the cylinders after the hone? You really need to wash those down, i use soap and water with a brush. wipe down with a white towel , if the towel is not clean with out any hint of debis or discoloration, wash the bores again. The grit from honing is not something you want in the oil or on new rings.


Edit: i see you have an engine assembler, sorry, i thought after reading the reuse of bearings that you were doing this yourself.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Really no need to put in new crank & rod bearings because at 60K, they should be as new. Ed

They were in great shape from what I could tell.

I agree with reusing the bearings if they look good. No need to break in a new set. The new ones may not break in properly.


hopefully they were set out so they went back in the same rod/main as they were originally installed.

I would have used new, if the old bearings looked ok then new ones should not be a problem.
 
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Originally Posted By: spasm3
How did you clean the cylinders after the hone? You really need to wash those down, i use soap and water with a brush. wipe down with a white towel , if the towel is not clean with out any hint of debis or discoloration, wash the bores again. The grit from honing is not something you want in the oil or on new rings.


Edit: i see you have an engine assembler, sorry, i thought after reading the reuse of bearings that you were doing this yourself.


No that's my bad. I'm not sure why I used the term engine assembler. I should have used the term machinist. I went to him just to use his hot-tank, and left getting a hone and new brass freeze plugs as well.

I can't remember what chemical I used on the walls, but I know I spent a lot of time making sure they would wipe clean with a white cloth.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
hopefully they were set out so they went back in the same rod/main as they were originally installed.

I would have used new, if the old bearings looked ok then new ones should not be a problem.


Indeed. Everything was labeled. Piston/rods, main caps, and bearings.
 
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Did you plastigauge the old bearings? FWIW I would have used new bearings too. As far as lubricant, I have used STP on the bearings and liberally apply motor oil on the rings as they go back in on the compressor tool. I would turn the oil pump until oil was coming up through the push rods on my small blocks. Don't want a dry start.
 
I hope you have new rings for the motor since you got the cylinders honed. I would never reuse old rings on a fresh cylinder.
 
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