Building a pole barn

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I am planning to put up a 40x60x14 barn and have a few options I'm pursuing based on ease of installation, cost, resale value, and functionality.

1. Buy kit to my design from Menard's. It is a wood frame with metal roof and walls. Main advantage is everything is included and if not it's just a trip to town to visit Menard's. Main disadvantage is lots of labor to install. Would cost around $16k for materials.

2. Wood frame but angle iron steel trusses. Main advantage is increased ceiling height. Main disadvantage is not as easy to finish out soffit vents, install garage doors etc. Best estimate so far is $12k but don't have every last penny figured but all the big stuff is done. I would have it engineered above code requirements.

3. Prefab steel building. I like the ease of construction and strength, but one quote I've got so far is $18k but doesn't include doors, etc. Would be closer to $22k all said and done.

4. Build my own steel building. My dad has several buildings that are all steel and welded together. I think there is a lot of profit baked into prefab steel buildings and just like the angle iron truss building I am going to get that engineered. So far my cost are once again around $12k. Main advantage is I can weld pretty good so I put something together wrong I can cut it out and weld it back together. Just planning a trip to the local steelyard or look for second hand steel.

Would like hear what everyone thinks.
 
What are your plans for the building?

Will it be a working/playing garage (working on vehicles, rebuilding things, general shop stuff), storage only, woodworking shop, all of these?

Will you be insulating and heating it?

We need more information to be able to help you better.
 
Again, what are you plans for the building?
A couple of years ago, I went with a steel building because of a higher wind rating and cheaper insurance.
 
I bought a property with a pole barn that is made from rough cut lumber and the poles are rotting in the ground. I am going to have to deal with that shortly.
 
Option. 1. Add osb sheeting to the roof and then metal roof over it. You won't have the noise with rain and overall I feel it's better.

Make sure you consider lighting options, electrical and opening in top of walls for natural light.

Pole buildings constructed properly will last your lifetime.
 
Originally Posted By: vitez
What are your plans for the building?

Will it be a working/playing garage (working on vehicles, rebuilding things, general shop stuff), storage only, woodworking shop, all of these?

Will you be insulating and heating it?

We need more information to be able to help you better.


It will be multi use - Mostly for storage (vehicles and hay), but I wanted to include an insulated workshop for working on vehicles and possibly wood and metal working down the road. It would be 20 x 30 in size (1/4 of total space).

For me the main advantage of the steel is that the site prep work will be considerably less as I do have to work around some stuff on one side of the building and only digging 8 holes (20' spacing) vs 18 holes (8' spacing) sounds more appealing as does the erection of the steel itself.

Originally Posted By: JXW
Make sure you consider lighting options, electrical and opening in top of walls for natural light.


I thought about the clear panes for light but when I look at older buildings they are all cloudy and see some that are broken. My dad has some on a barn that is 20 years old and they really don't let that much light in. I figured windows would be a better option.

For electrical I have a 200 amp main in my house and a 100 amp main in my detached garage so I was going to put a 100 amp main in the new barn. The only thing I really run is an air compressor and a welding machine, usually not at the same time.
 
I have built a couple 12x12 and 12x24 sheds by hand, wood for the frame and tin for the roof/walls. All i can say is good luck and enjoy the end result.
 
I did a Menards about 15 years ago for dead storage of vehicles and it's been fine. I had a guy with bucket and auger attachment for a part of a couple days to drill the post holes and later lift the trusses. One thing he suggested that I wouldn't have thought of was to add rolled plastic faced insulation under the roof sheeting for a vapor barrier. Going without can result in a drippy conditions inside from time to time with rapid weather changes-good luck
 
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