2016 Audi S4 Factory Fill UOA at 3,793 Miles

[CrazyJeeper]

Did a fairly aggressive "break in" like how I normally would drive it. No redline runs until about 1,500 miles. I'd say my miles are 70% city and 30% highway. I kept the factory oil filter in and changed the oil to M1 0w-40 and will have the oil changed again at 5,000 miles per Audi. I got a really good deal on M1 so I'm using it as a mid oil change flush more or less.

Afe Pro Dry air filter and an intake tube are my only mods to this car.

If you have any other questions or concerns, let me know.

 

[dlundblad]

I am assuming this is the 3.0 with the turbo. Do these also have a reputation for eating exhaust cams like their older brothers?

That issue makes me a huge supporter of cutting the OCI in half. (5k)

Keep an eye out for Autozone's fall/ winter oil clearances. I bought a [censored] ton of 5w40 Euro Pennzoil Ultra for $2 a quart. The Audi loves it.

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am assuming this is the 3.0 with the turbo.


Supercharged 3.0

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am assuming this is the 3.0 with the turbo.


Supercharged 3.0


Do you know if they fixed the cam eating issue?

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am assuming this is the 3.0 with the turbo.


Supercharged 3.0


Do you know if they fixed the cam eating issue?


I guess so, think so, hope so? Looks like it may have been limited to the early 2000's 3.0's. I haven't heard of that issue for B8/B8.5 S4's. Googled Audi 3.0 exhaust camshaft and it wasn't pretty.

 

[dlundblad]

Speaking from experience, no... it isnt.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I am assuming this is the 3.0 with the turbo.


Supercharged 3.0


Do you know if they fixed the cam eating issue?

The old 3.0 and the current 3.0 TFSI are quite different engines. One is not related to the other.

I have not heard of any cam issues with the new one.

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Here's a neat link (PDF) with details on the engine from Audi:
http://www.s4-mtm.com/images/925803_3.0V6TFSIengine.pdf

 

[wemay]

Just keep an eye on the Silicon. Like BlackStone said, probably just wear-in.

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Just keep an eye on the Silicon. Like BlackStone said, probably just wear-in.


Will do. Not as bad as the piece of poop 2015 Silverado Duramax I had for a year. At roughly 1,000 miles on the factory fill, I had a 90 for silicon when I sent a sample in. Got rid of that truck.

Need to go back and double check all of my clamps for the intake tube and air filter. Years ago, I had a AFe Pro Dry air filter on a 2004 Silverado 6.0 gas and my silicon was at 10; engine had 95,000 miles and the oil was changed every 3,000 miles using Chevron 5w-30 and a Napa Gold oil filter. I do have faith in the AFe air filter.

 

[camrydriver111]

5k OCI. That is low for an Audi.

TBN is on the low side so it may be for a good reason.

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
5k OCI. That is low for an Audi.

TBN is on the low side so it may be for a good reason.


The first oil change for new S4's is 5,000 miles. After that, it's every 10,000 miles. I'll still change the oil on my own at every 5,000 miles using my Mityvac fluid extractor. Used it for the first time changing the oil on this car and it was super easy and clean.

 

[ryanm8]

Interesting.... I wonder what oil that is? For my Jetta they use Castrol 5w40 at the dealer, but this oil definitely isn't that (too low of zinc and calcium). It looks like a mid-SAPS 5w30 oil....

 

[dlundblad]

A new and improved V6 is nice to know.

It'll be interesting to see the next UOA.

 

[zeng]

KV@100*C of FF isn't xxW40 ? It's a 30 ...

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: zeng
KV@100*C of FF isn't xxW40 ? It's a 30 ...

Yes, the factory fill is likely an Xw-30 oil.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
I kept the factory oil filter in and changed the oil to M1 0w-40 and will have the oil changed again at 5,000 miles per Audi. I got a really good deal on M1 so I'm using it as a mid oil change flush more or less.

You're not concerned about running a high SAPS oil? Or do you just plan to keep valve deposits at a minimum with Italian tune-ups?

 

[Dippy]

FYI here's my first UOA from my S5 which has the updated version of that engine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ory#Post4041690

 

[CrazyJeeper]

Originally Posted By: Dippy
FYI here's my first UOA from my S5 which has the updated version of that engine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ory#Post4041690


Thanks for that link Dippy. How did you drive during the 4,000 or so miles you had on the factory oil? Have you had it tested again?

Hope you don't mind, but I copied and pasted your numbers into this post so people don't have to open another window.

SYMPTOMS: Note levels of:- Silicon and Aluminium
DIAGNOSIS: Silicon possibly dirt or antifoaming additives in oil, aluminium is piston rings wear
ACTION: Physical properties and additive levels satisfactory. No fuel dilution
STATUS: CAUTION

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Viscosity @ 40°C cSt 69.2
Water Content %wt 0.0
Fuel Dilution % 0
Total Insoluble Matter %wt 0.3
Total Base Number mgKOH/g 3.2

SPECTROCHEMICAL ANALYSIS
Iron ppm 46
Chromium ppm 1
Aluminium ppm 21**
Molybdenum ppm 1
Copper ppm 35
Lead ppm 0
Tin ppm 1
Nickel ppm 1
Silicon ppm 48**
Sodium ppm 8
Boron ppm 3
Vanadium ppm 0
Calcium ppm 1676
Phosphorus ppm 633
Zinc ppm 93
Magnesium ppm 8
Barium ppm 0

 

[Dippy]

Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
How did you drive during the 4,000 or so miles you had on the factory oil? Have you had it tested again?


Possibly like you I did some research into engine 'break-in' and decided that I should do something to wear the piston rings in. So for the first 600 miles or so I took it easy except for doing a controlled run every time I went out. This was to take the revs up to about 5K in one gear (in M) and then use engine braking to slow down as far as possible. From about 600 to 1K miles I started revving the engine higher, including the occasional redline, and then from 1K I started to thrash it (when I wanted to). I did read that the piston ring wearing needs to be done in the first 20 miles, and mine had 24 miles on it when I collected. It reached the dealer with 20 miles so it must get driven a fair distance on its way from the factory. Nevertheless it seemed like a good idea to do this and when I came to take the oil sample there was no sign that it had 'consumed' any.

I don't do many miles so my next UOA won't be until March next year.