15k miles on Fram xg6607 2011 Mazda 2

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Fram say UP to 15,000 miles. I did my sons Toyota and pulled the filter off [a Fram XG] and the element was loose probably from the leaf type spring failing that holds the element in place. I shook the filter before the install so i knew it eas sound upon installation.
 
I think 20k miles on a slightly longer XG7317 may be able to do 2 OCI's of 10k miles for a total of 20k miles. The XG6607 is just too small so it may have very little holding capacity, therefore it may go into bypass little early.
 
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I bought a 7317, but have yet to use it. Figured more contaminated oil between changes, and slightly slower warm up might not be worth it.
 
Then I will cut it open and let you guys tell me what it means. What is the preferred method for opening a Fram XG?
 
A) If you have a Dremel tool, that's the ticket. Put the filter in a soft-jawed vise or similar, then use a cut-off wheel to go around just above the base plate. There's ~1/2" void above the baseplate at the canister edge for the outlet pipe and ADBV in the center, so you won't nick any media. This method requires no special tools to buy and is quick, presuming you have a Dremel.

B) There was a thread here recently where a user did a series of UOA on his 20k run, never changing the filter. It showed continued, improved filtering (fewer particles) continuously until 15k, where it started to creep up. Well documented, and he concluded 15k was the right interval. I wish I could find the link for you right now.

I have 2 XGs to go on our vehicles next OCI and will run them 15k.
 
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
A) If you have a Dremel tool, that's the ticket. Put the filter in a soft-jawed vise or similar, then use a cut-off wheel to go around just above the base plate. There's ~1/2" void above the baseplate at the canister edge for the outlet pipe and ADBV in the center, so you won't nick any media. This method requires no special tools to buy and is quick, presuming you have a Dremel.


How would that compare to using an angle grinder?
 
I was able to quickly open up a filter by cutting off the crimp with a pair of aviation snips - cheap ones. I tried the Dremel wheel and it was painfully slow (for me). Maybe I lacked technique. When I had the crimp cut off everything came apart cleanly with no metal shavings.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
A) If you have a Dremel tool, that's the ticket. Put the filter in a soft-jawed vise or similar, then use a cut-off wheel to go around just above the base plate. There's ~1/2" void above the baseplate at the canister edge for the outlet pipe and ADBV in the center, so you won't nick any media. This method requires no special tools to buy and is quick, presuming you have a Dremel.


How would that compare to using an angle grinder?


Good question. I tried an angle grinder 1st attempts on a filter. It works ok, but it's harder to control because it's larger, and you usually make gouges in the media and other areas. I found it no faster than a Dremel, actually. But if it's what's on hand, it'll do the job.

This is a leaking FL-400S I cut off with a dremel; I wanted to figure out why it was leaking (no clear answer). It was quick and clean and no damage to the internals.

 
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