1988 Toyota 22RE 155K...Manual says oil change every 10K...I changed Dino every 3K Why? Because my dad did...New rear main seal at 155K new front seal at 90K I would like to switch to a synthetic......Comments please....Thanks Charlie
Manual says every 10 K on oil changes
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Sure no problem, I would recommend Mobil 1 High Mileage if you want to go synthetic.
Id run 10w30 Defy for 5K intervals,
Maxlife FS 10w30 for 7.5-10K
Maxlife FS 10w30 for 7.5-10K
Watch for wear on the plastic timing chain guides. If the chain wears through the guide, it will work through the timing chain cover into a coolant passage.
These engines are notorious for this problem when mileage starts to build up. I've been there and done that.
These engines are notorious for this problem when mileage starts to build up. I've been there and done that.
Does it actually say 10K in a 1988 owner's manual ?
I'm wondering what Toyota's Factory Fill oil would have been on the 1998 car.
Originally Posted By: Turbo_Lemming
I'm wondering what Toyota's Factory Fill oil would have been on the 1998 car.
It's a 1988 ... I dunno what Toyota said back then ...
I'm wondering what Toyota's Factory Fill oil would have been on the 1998 car.
It's a 1988 ... I dunno what Toyota said back then ...
Originally Posted By: Killer223
my 22RE is 480K on it never been touched. it's had 15/40 in it it's entire life.
I've seen one with similar mileage that had Supertech Synthetic 10W30 with 7500 mile OCI for most of it's life. Had 5000 mile OCI with bulk Mobil Drive Clean for first 80,000 miles.
my 22RE is 480K on it never been touched. it's had 15/40 in it it's entire life.
I've seen one with similar mileage that had Supertech Synthetic 10W30 with 7500 mile OCI for most of it's life. Had 5000 mile OCI with bulk Mobil Drive Clean for first 80,000 miles.
Yep...10K what the manual says.... WHY SWITCH I love this truck...Want to be nice to it when I have more bucks...I have a friend with the carb engine with 300K...Have no Idea what oil...He is gone...Aimsoil says might start leaks from the cleaning effect of the new oil....What have you guys found? Had the timing chain replaced with the front seal Charlie
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Though I've been using pretty much nothing but Amsoil top tier synthetic oil for many years, I have to say I'd keep it dino for your Toyota.
Yes, synthetic oil can cause seals to leak, at least in 1980's engines or older. Seal materials changed sometime around the late 80's, so not an issue in anything newer. No need to keep doing a 3K OCI with modern dino oils though. Might be interesting to try a UOA at 5K and see what it shows.
Yes, synthetic oil can cause seals to leak, at least in 1980's engines or older. Seal materials changed sometime around the late 80's, so not an issue in anything newer. No need to keep doing a 3K OCI with modern dino oils though. Might be interesting to try a UOA at 5K and see what it shows.
MolaKule
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Originally Posted By: ceast
1988 Toyota 22RE 155K...Manual says oil change every 10K...I changed Dino every 3K Why? Because my dad did...New rear main seal at 155K new front seal at 90K I would like to switch to a synthetic......Comments please....Thanks Charlie
Here is my opinion on vehicle manuals.
Use the viscosity specified for the temperature range.
The manuals suggested change intervals are for NON-severe driving styles in perfect weather conditions such as no dust, no extreme temperature changes, etc.
Short trips in winter and or "all-out" interstate driving in hot weather are to be considered "severe service."
Oil color on the dipstick is no indication of an oil's condition. I have seen almost perfectly clear oil on the dipstick but the oil that came out of the sump was black, and the used oil analysis (UOA) indicated the TBN was to the point of declaring the oil as no longer useable.
I think an oil such as the Valvoline MaxLife, which is considered a Blend, if often a good choice for higher mileage engines if changed using Severe Service intervals.
If in doubt as to what your scheduled service interval (OCI) should be, then do a New Oil Analysis (VOA) on the oil you are using and then do subsequent UOA's.
1988 Toyota 22RE 155K...Manual says oil change every 10K...I changed Dino every 3K Why? Because my dad did...New rear main seal at 155K new front seal at 90K I would like to switch to a synthetic......Comments please....Thanks Charlie
Here is my opinion on vehicle manuals.
Use the viscosity specified for the temperature range.
The manuals suggested change intervals are for NON-severe driving styles in perfect weather conditions such as no dust, no extreme temperature changes, etc.
Short trips in winter and or "all-out" interstate driving in hot weather are to be considered "severe service."
Oil color on the dipstick is no indication of an oil's condition. I have seen almost perfectly clear oil on the dipstick but the oil that came out of the sump was black, and the used oil analysis (UOA) indicated the TBN was to the point of declaring the oil as no longer useable.
I think an oil such as the Valvoline MaxLife, which is considered a Blend, if often a good choice for higher mileage engines if changed using Severe Service intervals.
If in doubt as to what your scheduled service interval (OCI) should be, then do a New Oil Analysis (VOA) on the oil you are using and then do subsequent UOA's.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
I think an oil such as the Valvoline MaxLife, which is considered a Blend, if often a good choice for higher mileage engines if changed using Severe Service intervals.
If in doubt as to what your scheduled service interval (OCI) should be, then do a New Oil Analysis (VOA) on the oil you are using and then do subsequent UOA's.
I definitely second that. VML is a great candidate for high mileage vehicles.
~ Triton
I think an oil such as the Valvoline MaxLife, which is considered a Blend, if often a good choice for higher mileage engines if changed using Severe Service intervals.
If in doubt as to what your scheduled service interval (OCI) should be, then do a New Oil Analysis (VOA) on the oil you are using and then do subsequent UOA's.
I definitely second that. VML is a great candidate for high mileage vehicles.
~ Triton
Is it a carb motor? If so I'd be tempted to keep with shorter OCI's, due to start up fuel getting past the rings. On an EFI motor... I'm not sure I'd want to go past 5k just the same. At that point I'd want to buy some oil analysis kits and try out a few. If analysis looks good, then sure, run longer. If the analysis sounds too expensive to do, then I'd stick with 5k on a decent conventional, or 3k on a so-so conventional.
I'm not sure how fast you plan to rack up miles? As in, miles/year?
I'm not sure how fast you plan to rack up miles? As in, miles/year?
Originally Posted By: Kool1
Watch for wear on the plastic timing chain guides. If the chain wears through the guide, it will work through the timing chain cover into a coolant passage.
These engines are notorious for this problem when mileage starts to build up. I've been there and done that.
I'd stick w dino or syn-blend & change every 5k. Keep it full. MaxLife Blend would be a good choice.
from wiki: "The first fuel injected 22R-E engines appeared in August 1982.
Output of these engines is commonly rated at 105 hp (78 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 137 lb·ft (185 N·m) at 2,800 rpm.
In 1985, the engine was significantly reworked, output was up to 114 hp (84 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 140 lb·ft (190 N·m) at 3,600 rpm. Many parts from the newer 22R-E are not compatible with those from the older pre-1985 engine. Non-compatible parts include the cylinder head, block, pistons and many of the associated parts such as the timing chain and cover, and water and oil pumps (although the oil pump internals are the same). These changes also affected the 22R, therefore one can consider the 85-95 22R-E as a fuel injected version of the 85-90 22R with only minor differences, if any.
Toyota swapped the dual-row timing chain used in older engines for a single-row chain with plastic guides in 1983. This system reduced drag on the engine, but is occasionally problematic. Every 80,000 to 140,000 miles, the chain will sometimes stretch to the point that the hydraulic-operated chain tensioner cannot take up any more slack. When this happens, the timing chain impacts the solid-plastic driver's side chain guide, breaking it within a few hundred miles of driving and creating a noticeable chattering sound in the front of the engine, especially when cold. If the engine continues to be operated after the guide breaks, the chain will stretch rapidly (an unfortunate characteristic of single row chains). The loose chain will cause inaccurate ignition timing, which usually results in noticeably rough running. In continued operation, the chain can jump a tooth on the drive sprocket or break entirely, with either case resulting in engine damage from valve/piston collisions. Also, the stretched chain will slap against the side of the timing cover, due to the broken guide, wear through the cover and into the coolant passage behind the water pump. This will cause coolant to drain into the crankcase/oil pan, possibly causing damage to internal engine components such as bearings, crankshaft and valve train, as well as damage caused by overheating due to the lack of coolant (since it has drained into the engine oil). The condition can also render a misdiagnosis of a head gasket failure when, in fact, the head gasket may still be good. The best fix is to buy an aftermarket timing-chain kit (with steel-backed guides) and a new timing cover; 'patching' the hole in a worn timing cover is strongly discouraged"
Watch for wear on the plastic timing chain guides. If the chain wears through the guide, it will work through the timing chain cover into a coolant passage.
These engines are notorious for this problem when mileage starts to build up. I've been there and done that.
I'd stick w dino or syn-blend & change every 5k. Keep it full. MaxLife Blend would be a good choice.
from wiki: "The first fuel injected 22R-E engines appeared in August 1982.
Output of these engines is commonly rated at 105 hp (78 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 137 lb·ft (185 N·m) at 2,800 rpm.
In 1985, the engine was significantly reworked, output was up to 114 hp (84 kW) at 4,800 rpm and 140 lb·ft (190 N·m) at 3,600 rpm. Many parts from the newer 22R-E are not compatible with those from the older pre-1985 engine. Non-compatible parts include the cylinder head, block, pistons and many of the associated parts such as the timing chain and cover, and water and oil pumps (although the oil pump internals are the same). These changes also affected the 22R, therefore one can consider the 85-95 22R-E as a fuel injected version of the 85-90 22R with only minor differences, if any.
Toyota swapped the dual-row timing chain used in older engines for a single-row chain with plastic guides in 1983. This system reduced drag on the engine, but is occasionally problematic. Every 80,000 to 140,000 miles, the chain will sometimes stretch to the point that the hydraulic-operated chain tensioner cannot take up any more slack. When this happens, the timing chain impacts the solid-plastic driver's side chain guide, breaking it within a few hundred miles of driving and creating a noticeable chattering sound in the front of the engine, especially when cold. If the engine continues to be operated after the guide breaks, the chain will stretch rapidly (an unfortunate characteristic of single row chains). The loose chain will cause inaccurate ignition timing, which usually results in noticeably rough running. In continued operation, the chain can jump a tooth on the drive sprocket or break entirely, with either case resulting in engine damage from valve/piston collisions. Also, the stretched chain will slap against the side of the timing cover, due to the broken guide, wear through the cover and into the coolant passage behind the water pump. This will cause coolant to drain into the crankcase/oil pan, possibly causing damage to internal engine components such as bearings, crankshaft and valve train, as well as damage caused by overheating due to the lack of coolant (since it has drained into the engine oil). The condition can also render a misdiagnosis of a head gasket failure when, in fact, the head gasket may still be good. The best fix is to buy an aftermarket timing-chain kit (with steel-backed guides) and a new timing cover; 'patching' the hole in a worn timing cover is strongly discouraged"
If was my engine, it's get Maxlife (blend - red bottle) and go 5,000 between changes. I'd put in a magnetic drain plug to catch any little steel/iron shards that might get loose. A good filter (oversized if I could find one ...). And cruise on
Thanks..It will be max life and Mobil 1 filters Charlie
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