Update on AFE 0W20

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Alrighty, so just wanted to give everyone an update. After close to 400 miles in on the new oil, if not a little more, here's what I noticed.

Compared to the factory fill (Idemitsu on the Crosstrek), the M1 oil seems a little louder upon start up. However, after the engine is warm, it's pretty [censored] quiet.

Oddly enough, I noticed that I have a loss of 1 mpg after switching to AFE. Now this is mostly city miles, but it went from 28.5 mpg to 27.3 mpg.

Now, personally, I wouldn't be surprised if the Idemitsu was loaded with all sorts of additives from the factory that inadvertently boosted the MPG slightly. But, I didn't care to have that oil in for more than 2k because of all the gunk that accumulates (dealer wanted to swap it out at 3k).

After about another 5k-6k, I'm probably going to give Castrol Magnatec a whirl, as the dealer recommends Csstrol here (I know it's all marketing [censored] at the end of the day). I will also look into Pennzoil as well, but it comes down to whatever has a nice rebate going at the time.
 
Castrol Magnatec is not the worlds greatest oil but a very solid choice. I use the FS 5w-20 ( 4cyls) and the SS 5w-30 version in a big V8.
I get bored easily but if they keep the price under $20 I could use it forever. Both weights are good for 10K easily with a top quality filter. I only use M1's and Ultras........
 
Castrol Magnatec 5W-20 and 5W-30 are on rollback at Walmart in store price for $17.88. Just saw it yesterday when I was buying some Valvoline conventional with the $6 off coupon.
 
You really need to stick with "a" brand for more than one interval to get anything meaningful out of it.
 
During break in doesn't matter its all going to be toast quickly until the engine settles in. I just bought some EP since Buster showed me it may be 70% PAO base. That's DOES make a big diff but for some reason subies have choked on M1, and more than one service manager recommended against it though FUJI couldn't FORMALLY ban the stuff. I recommend you use the blue fram service replacement filters though, I have not found a good replacement yet Including the beautiful "looking" mann-hummel Korean hyundia26300-35503. The Honda pcx-003 may be an option as may be the GONHER Nissan truck filter.
 
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You noticed a 3% loss of mileage, after 400 miles on the new oil.

I can't say that there is any scientific method to be found, in such a short and un-reproducible result.

Keeping exact records for an entire OCI might give a result that would have some credence......If you drive the same route, day in and day out.

I guess having ruined my hearing has one positive result.....I can hear none of this "Extra noise" produced by M1 of all stripes. Just extreme longevity of the engines I put it in.
 
Considering that the energy density of gasoline varies around 4% even at the same station (and separate from summer/winter blends and non-oxygenated fuels), I don't see how a conclusion could be made based on the oil alone.
 
Id rack this up to typical poor running after the first OC from a moly laden oil to nearly none. I didn't like this oil in our 2011 FB. At the time QSUD was the nuts - tough it did not run as clean as the synpower and it tended to stick the TC tensioner - what a racket that made cold starting!
You'll likely like M1 better AFTER the car is broken in. Maybe. I cant wait to run the supposed "real synthetic" 0w20EP in the wifes car. I have accrued long term fuel mileage baselines OCI to OCI so I can report accurately - caution though she is going into the most favourable season (summer) for good fuel mileage and gasoline energy density and warm "cold" starts.
 
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Originally Posted By: SubieMovie

Compared to the factory fill (Idemitsu on the Crosstrek), the M1 oil seems a little louder upon start up. However, after the engine is warm, it's pretty [censored] quiet.

...I wouldn't be surprised if the Idemitsu was loaded with all sorts of additives from the factory that inadvertently boosted the MPG slightly. But, I didn't care to have that oil in for more than 2k because of all the gunk that accumulates (dealer wanted to swap it out at 3k).


Yeah, good idea to get all of that extra moly and ZDDP out of the engine!
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Many Subies go 5-6k on factory fill with no ill affects. Not sure about the 0W-20, but some formulations of the 5W-30 have actually scaled back on the moly and ZDDP (e.g. the WRX version but not the STI version).
 
I just put M1 in my new Outback a couple of weeks ago. Changed the FF early at around 3k miles.

It hasn't kaboomed yet. I'm looking for the pin to see if it's been pulled but there's no pin in sight.

The car might still go into smithereens later today. I will miss the increasing mileage, quiet operation and all that other good stuff. The oil must have perma-stained my dipstick into staying full or at least tricking me into thinking it's full when I check it.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Wasn't AFE 0W20 a Bitog darling? What happened?


Darling? Don't know about that, but M1 0-20 AFE is an outstanding product. OP has 400 miles with 0-20AFE and claims he lost mileage?
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Wasn't AFE 0W20 a Bitog darling? What happened?


Darling? Don't know about that, but M1 0-20 AFE is an outstanding product. OP has 400 miles with 0-20AFE and claims he lost mileage?



Just wanted to step in here and let you know that I'm enjoying the M1 oil. It's a fantastic oil, just posting my observations thus far. My mpg can change for the better in 2k, who knows. But, there's no oil bashing on my part. I'm new to the oil game in gassers, having come from primarily diesel cars in the past.
 
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Originally Posted By: SubieMovie
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Wasn't AFE 0W20 a Bitog darling? What happened?


Darling? Don't know about that, but M1 0-20 AFE is an outstanding product. OP has 400 miles with 0-20AFE and claims he lost mileage?



Just wanted to step in here and let you know that I'm enjoying the M1 oil. It's a fantastic oil, just posting my observations thus far. My mpg can change for the better in 2k, who knows. But, there's no oil bashing on my part. I'm new to the oil game in gassers, having come from primarily diesel cars in the past.


I have been using 0-20AFE for several years now in my Fords, so I have a good base of performance with this oil. Most folks here do skip from one oil to the next and really never give one oil much of a test.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Wasn't AFE 0W20 a Bitog darling? What happened?


Darling? Don't know about that, but M1 0-20 AFE is an outstanding product. OP has 400 miles with 0-20AFE and claims he lost mileage?


I used it for quite a few years along with AFE 0W30 and had no complaints whatsoever. I would consider it an outstanding product as well, along with PU and PUP.
 
I put a few more miles on it, almost at the 1k mark..


It's a pretty nice oil right now. I have no complaints with regards to engine noise (once it's warm, it's extremely quiet) or consumption etc.. MPG has remained fairly constant, although I don't see the whole logic behind the AFE version. Honestly, I'd just use their EP considering there is no measurable MPG gain.


Does anyone know what the measurable benefits are for the AFE version?
 
Originally Posted By: SubieMovie
I put a few more miles on it, almost at the 1k mark..


It's a pretty nice oil right now. I have no complaints with regards to engine noise (once it's warm, it's extremely quiet) or consumption etc.. MPG has remained fairly constant, although I don't see the whole logic behind the AFE version. Honestly, I'd just use their EP considering there is no measurable MPG gain.


Does anyone know what the measurable benefits are for the AFE version?



There are both outstanding. Perhaps if you want to do 15K OCIs then the EP may have an advantage. However one M1 0-20 user was doing 15-17K OCIs with both AFE and then EP and could show no real difference with UOAs. Run the AFE for 75K then EP for the same and get back to us.
 
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