Put a breaker bar on it and use a floor jack under the end of the handle to lift it.
F250 Rear Diff Fill Plug Seized
- Thread starter Mantooth
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Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
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Originally Posted By: Mantooth
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving. New cover is on and the RTV is setting up. I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
Put a bit of anti-seize on it and this situation should not happen again.
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving. New cover is on and the RTV is setting up. I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
Put a bit of anti-seize on it and this situation should not happen again.
Originally Posted By: Mantooth
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
The fluid, according to the owners manual, is a lifetime fill, as long as there is no water intrusion. As long as the limited slip, if equipped, is operating as it should the fluid was more than serviceable. Most of these changes are to satisfy the owner, not the piece of equipment in question.
Glad you got the plug loose without damage to yourself or the truck.
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
The fluid, according to the owners manual, is a lifetime fill, as long as there is no water intrusion. As long as the limited slip, if equipped, is operating as it should the fluid was more than serviceable. Most of these changes are to satisfy the owner, not the piece of equipment in question.
Glad you got the plug loose without damage to yourself or the truck.
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
The fluid, according to the owners manual, is a lifetime fill, as long as there is no water intrusion. As long as the limited slip, if equipped, is operating as it should the fluid was more than serviceable. Most of these changes are to satisfy the owner, not the piece of equipment in question.
Glad you got the plug loose without damage to yourself or the truck.
I've heard two different opinions on the gear oil. Lifetime and change at 100k. It may have been changed when we had the tranny rebuilt at 40k but I'm not for sure.
Reason for the change:
Wife started noticing a vibration when she pulled the horse trailer. I had to tow a small excavator a couple of weeks ago and really noticed it (rear end was shuttering.) Also noticed it while turning at slow speeds. This truck sits 95% of the time and is mostly used for towing the horses around.
Upon further inspection, I noticed what appeared to be a very, very slow leak. I'm guessing enough had seeped out and was causing the LS to shutter. I was hoping it wasn't the tranny. Took her for a spin today and it seems to have corrected the problem.
The fluid, according to the owners manual, is a lifetime fill, as long as there is no water intrusion. As long as the limited slip, if equipped, is operating as it should the fluid was more than serviceable. Most of these changes are to satisfy the owner, not the piece of equipment in question.
Glad you got the plug loose without damage to yourself or the truck.
I've heard two different opinions on the gear oil. Lifetime and change at 100k. It may have been changed when we had the tranny rebuilt at 40k but I'm not for sure.
Reason for the change:
Wife started noticing a vibration when she pulled the horse trailer. I had to tow a small excavator a couple of weeks ago and really noticed it (rear end was shuttering.) Also noticed it while turning at slow speeds. This truck sits 95% of the time and is mostly used for towing the horses around.
Upon further inspection, I noticed what appeared to be a very, very slow leak. I'm guessing enough had seeped out and was causing the LS to shutter. I was hoping it wasn't the tranny. Took her for a spin today and it seems to have corrected the problem.
The life fluid argument makes zero logical sense. It basically means don't change it until an issue arises. Isn't the point of preventative maintenance to prevent something?
Leak and vibrating aside, OP did good changing gear oil from a super duty used for hauling a horse trailer in hilly Southern Indiana.
Leak and vibrating aside, OP did good changing gear oil from a super duty used for hauling a horse trailer in hilly Southern Indiana.
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
The life fluid argument makes zero logical sense. It basically means don't change it until an issue arises. Isn't the point of preventative maintenance to prevent something? Leak and vibrating aside, OP did good changing gear oil from a super duty used for hauling a horse trailer in hilly Southern Indiana.
Indeed; put me in this camp as well. Jim Allen (who has probably forgotten more about axles than most of us will ever know) has said that most of the wear that happens in an axle is during the first 5K and that early changes are conducive to long life. Of course, there are those who run the fluid "forever" without an issue and there are those who lose an axle at 40K. IMHO, gear oil is very cheap compared to axle problems.
The life fluid argument makes zero logical sense. It basically means don't change it until an issue arises. Isn't the point of preventative maintenance to prevent something? Leak and vibrating aside, OP did good changing gear oil from a super duty used for hauling a horse trailer in hilly Southern Indiana.
Indeed; put me in this camp as well. Jim Allen (who has probably forgotten more about axles than most of us will ever know) has said that most of the wear that happens in an axle is during the first 5K and that early changes are conducive to long life. Of course, there are those who run the fluid "forever" without an issue and there are those who lose an axle at 40K. IMHO, gear oil is very cheap compared to axle problems.
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
Originally Posted By: Mantooth
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in.
When it cones to really stuck fasteners/plugs, my two favorite tools are the torch and a hammer- and I'm not talking about a little L.P. torch either... though on rare occasion they do work.
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
Originally Posted By: Mantooth
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in.
When it cones to really stuck fasteners/plugs, my two favorite tools are the torch and a hammer- and I'm not talking about a little L.P. torch either... though on rare occasion they do work.
Originally Posted By: PumpPusher
Put a breaker bar on it and use a floor jack under the end of the handle to lift it.
I'd recommend this also, haven't encountered a diff plug I couldn't remove using this method.
Put a breaker bar on it and use a floor jack under the end of the handle to lift it.
I'd recommend this also, haven't encountered a diff plug I couldn't remove using this method.
Originally Posted By: Mantooth
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Put a long extension into the plug and beat the snot out of it with a large hammer. This will crack loose the threads. You will then be able to back the plug right out with a ratchet. Any other method seems silly ever since an old timer taught me that trick.
This method ended up working. Took about 40 good swings with a hammer but it eventually gave in. Still took a breaker bar to get it moving.
New cover is on and the RTV is setting up.
I was somewhat surprised at how good the old oil looked. Figured it would be wore out since I can't remember when it was last changed.
When I did the rear end in my TB the fill plug was seized bad. Steel plug in an aluminum housing..... It appeared someone had messed with the plug before I got the vehicle. I had the vehicle on a lift and plenty of room and was not able to get it to budge. An old mechanic said "tighten it first" and then try to remove it. It worked like magic! Never had an issue since.
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