rust on stainless steel pool rail and ladder

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
1,177
Location
NJ
I placed my stairs and ladder in my shed along with my 3 inch tabs. It appears the tablets were a bit wet. The stairs and ladders had quite a bit of rust on them. They were perfect when I stored them. I can polish them with Noxon and they will look ok but I can still see some pitting. They look ok to me but am concerned with rust getting into the water and causing water problems down the road. Is it time for new stairs and ladder or will I be ok. On a side note what may have caused this?? Pool is vinyl, no heater 18 X 36 inground.
 
Stainless isn't 100% corrosion proof as you are now well aware. Harsh chemicals will attack the metal and chlorine is harsh in the extreme. I would clean the surfaces well and live with the pitting if it's strictly cosmetic. If you get the chemicals off after cleaning you won't contaminate the pool.
 
Joshua_Skinner said:
Stainless isn't 100% corrosion proof as you are now well aware. Harsh chemicals will attack the metal and chlorine is harsh in the extreme. I would clean the surfaces well and live with the pitting if it's strictly cosmetic. If you get the chemicals off after cleaning you won't contaminate the pool. /quote]

Joshua, thanks for the response. I have one more question.Will the pitting cause rust to enter the water and cause issues. Or I shouldnt be concerned about this>
 
Most likely your parts are 400 series stainless, which under some circumstances rust a bit. 300 series would not rust. Check them with a magnet. If a mag is drawn to the pieces, then they do have a small amount of carbon in them, and will be 400 SS..
 
Last edited:
Actually the only truly rust proof stainless steel has an "L" in the number series. If you have metal bolts in marine environment any SS will corrode unless it has an L. I suppose for fresh water pools 3000 series is good enough. L SS is very expensive.

Type 304


The most common of authenticate grades, containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. It is used for chemical processing equipment, for food, dairy, and beverage industries, for heat exchanges, and for the milder chemicals.

Type 316


Contains 16% to 18% chromium and 11% to 14% nickel. It also has molybdenum added to the nickel and chrome of the 304. The molybdenum is used to control pit type attack. Type 316 is used in chemical processing, the pulp and paper industry, for food and beverage processing and dispensing and in the more corrosive environments. The molybdenum must be a minimum of 2%.

Type 317


Contains a higher percentage of molybdenum than 316 for highly corrosive environments. It must have a minimum of 3% “moly”. It is often used in stacks which contain scrubbers.

Type 317L


Restricts maximum carbon content to 0.030% max. and silicon to 0.75% max. for extra corrosion resistance.

Type 317LM


Requires molybdenum content of 4.00% min.

Type 317LMN


Requires molybdenum content of 4.00% min. and nitrogen of .15% min.

Type 321
Type 347


These types have been developed for corrosive resistance for repeated intermittent exposure to temperature above 800 degrees F. Type 321 is made by the addition of titanium and Type 347 is made by the addition of tantalum/columbium. These grades are primarily used in the aircraft industry.


Martensitic Grades

Martensitic grades were developed in order to provide a group of stainless alloys that would be corrosion resistant and hardenable by heat treating. The martensitic grades are straight chromium steels containing no nickel. They are magnetic and can be hardened by heat treating. The martensitic grades are mainly used where hardness, strength, and wear resistance are required.

Martensitic Grades of Stainless Steel
Figure 2 - Martensitic Grades

Type 410


Basic martensitic grade, containing the lowest alloy content of the three basic stainless steels (304, 430, and 410). Low cost, general purpose, heat treatable stainless steel. Used widely where corrosion is not severe (air, water, some chemicals, and food acids. Typical applications include highly stressed parts needing the combination of strength and corrosion resistance such as fasteners.

Type 410S


Contains lower carbon than Type 410, offers improved weldability but lower hardenability. Type 410S is a general purpose corrosion and heat resisting chromium steel recommended for corrosion resisting applications.

Type 414


Has nickel added (2%) for improved corrosion resistance. Typical applications include springs and cutlery.

Type 416


Contains added phosphorus and sulphur for improved machinability. Typical applications include screw machine parts.

Type 420


Contains increased carbon to improve mechanical properties. Typical applications include surgical instruments.

Type 431


Contains increased chromium for greater corrosion resistance and good mechanical properties. Typical applications include high strength parts such as valves and pumps.

Type 440


Further increases chromium and carbon to improve toughness and corrosion resistance. Typical applications include instruments.
 
All the welding I have done for the food industry(including animal food for Purina) had to be welded with 316L SS.
 
What is about Stainless Steel that is so soothing?

One thing to note is stainless is not stainless when encapsulated in epoxy resin. It somehow needs the presence of oxygen.

Lots of stainless fasteners will appear to rust, but it is really the tool that drove them home that left some of itself in the SS fasteners tool receptacle.

They have stainless drivers for such applications.
 
The pits aren't a big deal on solid material. All that's exposed is more of the same. Remove the corroding agent and it shouldn't get any worse. At least not at the rate at which the damage occurred.
 
I would wager it's a 304 stainless that it's made from. It was probably material from a cheap source with poor quality control. We go through tons and tons of stainless in work (wire, rods, sheet metal, plates) and when the guys in the office order from some cheap place we find a lot of rust spots in the 304 material (even before it's exposed to any chemicals or heat) and end up scrapping a lot. But hey the sales guys saved money by ordering the cheap stuff
shocked.gif
. 316 is generally nicer when it comes to something like that, and 400 series would probably have rusted a lot in the chlorine laden water. As far as it causing any problems in the pool? I don't really know, but probably not as long as you clean it up good.
 
3" tablets meaning chlorine tabs? That were a bit wet? If true, pool chlorine is a very, very powerful oxidizer. Even more so inside a closed shed for months on end.
 
Joshua, thanks for replying. You were the only person who actually replied to my question. I really didnt need a history on stainless steel from the others!
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
What is about Stainless Steel that is so soothing?

One thing to note is stainless is not stainless when encapsulated in epoxy resin. It somehow needs the presence of oxygen.

Lots of stainless fasteners will appear to rust, but it is really the tool that drove them home that left some of itself in the SS fasteners tool receptacle.

They have stainless drivers for such applications.



it's a layer of chromium oxide that causes it to resist corrosion. You need the presence of oxygen for this layer to form and encapsulating it will prevent the oxide layer from regenerating and healing itself.
 
Stainless will rust, when treated badly...tig1, worst I've seen in chemical processing WAS 316...welded without purge, and unpassivated.

OP, you might get away with a stainless wire brushing (don't ever use a brush/grinding disk that hes seen carbon steel, or you will start rust.).

If the pits start going brown again, go to a welding supply, and pick up some pickling paste (passivating paste), it will remove the iron oxide, and re-establish the protective oxide...it's nasty nasty stuff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top