Transmission fluid change gone wrong!! Help

[Sixxer]

Yesterday I dropped the pan on my Mazda 3 with 72k. I drained the fluid and changed the filter. I put in Mobil1 synthetic fluid. Upon starting the car the check engine light and AT light came on -I first figured due to low fluid. I checked the level and drove it up the street. Rough and hesitant shift and jerks into park and reverse. The only o
Difference I figured was the intake tube on the new filter looked smaller. I put the old filter back in and filled again with Mobil 1 fluid. (The fluid was dark both drains) same problem with the car. I have driven it maybe a 1/4 of a mile because I don't want to screw it up. The transmission was fine before, but I know how the fluid degrades despite what manufacturers tell you. Can you think of what I did wrong? Wrong fluid? Too late to change the fluid and now the transmission is shot? The fluid hasn't been changed before and now I'm debating having it brought to a mechanic to diagnose. Please help. Thanks

 

[Blinker]

Is the mobil 1 fluid specd for your car? Sometimes disconnecting the battery for a period of time will put the transmission back into a learning mode and will relearn your driving characteristics. New fluid will will perform differently than old dirty fluid and it could very well be that the electronics just need to be reset to the new fluid.

 

[Blinker]

How dark was the fluid? In my experience with transmissions the initial fill usually has lots of mud on the bottom of the pan. Subsequent drain/fills result in little to no mud in the pan. I do think that the original transmission fluid can be left in too long, despite what some manufacturers say.

 

[Sixxer]

I know other Mazda 3 owners have used it with no problem, however I'm not sure if it is specific as m5 fluid. I didn't think to reset the cars computer by unplugging the battery. I can give that a try

 

[Sixxer]

The fluid was dark - like very dark brown to black. I have changed it in my mustang but always when it was pink-red. There was no mud on the pan but the magnet had lost of metal shavings. I cleaned the pan out and wiped the magnet off

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: Sixxer
The fluid was dark - like very dark brown to black. I have changed it in my mustang but always when it was pink-red. There was no mud on the pan but the magnet had lost of metal shavings. I cleaned the pan out and wiped the magnet off


Sounds like it has been 72k hard miles.

Originally Posted By: Sixxer
Mainly short trips 10-15 miles, driven somewhat hard. Its a 4 banger that needs to rev high in order to get going...

 

[Blinker]

I dont know the specifics of mazda fluid either, sorry. I would double check the specs and disconnect the battery for awhile. Is the transmission slipping at all? If not, it might just be that the old fluid was so degraded and it just needs time to adjust to the change in fluid properties.

 

[Blinker]

A few metal pieces of debris is to be expected on the intial drain/fill. But it should be VERY minimal.

 

[Tanama]

Most probably the new fluid cleaned the soot contained in the transmission. Chances are that is the reason for the dark fluid. Subsequent drain & fills should take care of the fluid visual appearance.

Probably, some of the released soot also is creating the transmission malfunctions, as noted by the AT light. A blocked solenoid could be the cause. Try to retrieve the transmission codes. If the cause is released soot, additional drain & fills could resolve the problem.

 

[JamesBond]

If it's the correct fluid and amount, I'd check that the filter was installed correctly. Maybe it's not seated correctly or stuck/doubled up o-rings.

 

[Sixxer]

Thanks for the help. I will try resetting the computer and either drain fill myself or bring it to a shop. The shavings on the magnet were not large pieces of metal but more like sugar grains that wiped away. - I had the same thing with the magnet in my mustang.

 

[NHGUY]

Did you have to remove a ground strap at all when removing the pan?

 

[Sixxer]

No ground strap. 15 bolts or so and that's all. There is a piece that connects to the filter and that was put in place upon installation. I'm just surprised as the dramatic difference from changing the fluid. I could understand slight slipping since I read that's a possibility with an older transmission, but this has me scared to drive the vehicle. I'm thinking maybe a blockage from the new fluid or I put in the wrong fluid- but Mazda forums are full of people using Mobil 1 with no issue.

 

[Eddie]

If your Mazda 3 has the new SKYACTIC automatic? If so, you used the wrong fluid for sure. The Skyactiv fluid starts out dark blue and turns to a gray color after several heat cycles. Ed

 

[Blinker]

Well good luck we hope you get it resolved. I also agree that it sounds like a blockage on a pressure control solenoid and not an internal hard part problem. More drain/fills should help clear it up if thats the issue. Mobil 1 atf is an excellent choice.

 

[Sixxer]

It is non skyactive so we are good there. I'm glad you guys are leaning towards an internal blockage and not a damaged transmission. Now I have to debate sinking money and time into doing it myself or have it brought somewhere to be looked at by a professional.

 

[CharlieBauer]

I would get an OEM filter from a Mazda dealer and do a cooler line flush with Castrol IMV. Mobil 1 ATF is excellent but usually $10 a quart.

Also read up the exact procedure for checking correct level.

 

[SatinSilver]

That sounds good Charlie. To the OP, I had a bad flare from first to second after the dealer changed the rear main which required the trans to be dropped. A simple drain and fill solved the flair. I sold the car 80k miles later with no issues. This was on a 99 Accord.

 

[Sixxer]

There are no trains cooler lines on the car. I'm glad you don't think it's the fluid because I thought I screwed it up

 

[windeye]

there is a temperature sensor submerged in the ATF, it needs to be detached when changing filter, did you connect it back up? In addition, the suction port of the filter has an o-ring, it seals the suction port properly. Please check carefully for the proper seal there. If missing, no fluid would be flowing.

if you can not find what's wrong, please bring the car to dealership and have it checked and fixed. Don't drive, use flatbed.