Sticky intake valves

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Hello!

I have a problem. My engine (Honda B16A DOHC VTEC) has sticky valves. If I crank it over by hand for a while, they unstick and I can start it and it runs great.

The engine hadn't been run in 10 years, so I've been spending time getting it running, and it's been running great... The other day I topped off the engine oil with some old oil I had on my shelf, and ever since a couple intake valves will stick when the engine cools down. the engine has been run multiple times and driven without problem until I blended the oil and now this problem.

I would try to add some marvel mystery oil to the oil and run it to temp, then change the oil. But being from Canada, we don't have MMO, so I'm asking for advise.

I don't want to run a flush as I'm afraid it'll damage seals. The only other thing I can think of is adding some ATF to the oil and run it to temp, then change the oil.

Asking for advise! Thanks so much.
 
Do you know why they're sticking? Using snake oil in the hope that it will fix a mechanical problem is likely to be both expensive and unsatisfying.

Do you have the tools to pull the head off? Figuring out the problem and fixing it will be more satisfying and better.
 
I'll check for MMO at Walmart today...

I don't think it's mechanical. I think something reacted and deposited varnish or something on the valvestem. The engine has run great until I blended the oils. Should have known better!

Hoping an oil change using Maxlife (with its better detergents) will clean whatever is in there without resorting to solvent based flush chemicals.
 
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That is odd.how have you determined that they are sticking ? As an engine wears the guides get larger.if they didn't stick in the past I don't see how they can start sticking now
 
You are attacking the problem from the wrong angle. The old Z28 with dual TBI had this problem, the fix is to use agood top engine cleaner through a vacuum line, it goes right past the valve stems, that's where the problem is.
You can get GM TEC, Chrysler TEC or Subaru TEC at any GM, Subaru or Chrysler dealer. Forget Seafoam and MMO for this job they are a waste of time.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
That is odd.how have you determined that they are sticking ? As an engine wears the guides get larger.if they didn't stick in the past I don't see how they can start sticking now


I removed the valve over and watched the valves. One was sticking then popping back up. It unsticks, and I can start the engine. Very weird!
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
You are attacking the problem from the wrong angle. The old Z28 with dual TBI had this problem, the fix is to use agood top engine cleaner through a vacuum line, it goes right past the valve stems, that's where the problem is.
You can get GM TEC, Chrysler TEC or Subaru TEC at any GM, Subaru or Chrysler dealer. Forget Seafoam and MMO for this job they are a waste of time.


I'll try and get some TEC tomorrow. Thanks!
 
Just run the engine at about 1200 RPM and let the TEC get drawn slowly into the engine, you can meter the flow by kinking the hose.
Once its done let the engine sit an hour or so then start it and drive it. This should cure the problem.
 
I think the powerful cleaners which made the ATF flush occasionally successful are no longer there and haven't been for a while.

DO what you do to free the valves and get it started and DRIVE IT a long time.
Plan a buncha errands and keep it running. Use quality fuel. Maybe even use the one quart of solvent additive for a thousand miles and be ready to change a cheap oil filter or two.

I'm in the camp of referring to MMO as snake oil. I'd like to know if there are ANY "upper cylinder lubes" in creation.
 
Yesterday while the engine was cold, I tried to start it. Valve was stuck. Unstuck the valve, started the engine. Ran it for about a minute, then shut it off.

I just tried starting it now, and it started right up.

gonna try changing the oil with Maxlife, then run the TOP thru and see what happens!
 
Originally Posted By: Ozzmosis
Yesterday while the engine was cold, I tried to start it. Valve was stuck. Unstuck the valve, started the engine. Ran it for about a minute, then shut it off.

I just tried starting it now, and it started right up.

gonna try changing the oil with Maxlife, then run the TOP thru and see what happens!


you want to change the after the cleaner not before
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
you want to change the after the cleaner not before


Agreed. Brain is fried thinking of a solution.
 
many honda designs are interference engines like my crv with the B20b engine. i am not sure about yours. a valve that does not close as it should may kiss the piston and result in a bent valve, so get it fixed asap. After you get the top end cleaner to work, change the oil very soon. A high detergent hdeo may be a good idea
 
Do you have a Gregg Distributors around? They carry MMO and have it on special in May for $7 something.
 
I only got GM Combustion Chamber cleaner as that's all the dealership had. Sprayed 3/4 of the can into the throttle body while running, and bogged it down till it stalled. Let it sit for 15 mins (according to instructions on the can) and then started it up to blow out the gunk, then sprayed the rest in. Drove the car for about 10 mins to clear the smoke. Changed the oil with Castrol 5w30 high mileage oil. The oil that came out was nasty! Black black black! I chased the old oil with 1/2 litre of fresh.

Will try to start it tomorrow morning and see how it goes...

Thanks for the advice!
 
Started the car and ran it for a couple mins. Sounds amazing! Going to drive it tonight and hopefully call this confirmed!

Might have to do TEC cleanings to my other vehicles.

Thanks again to all!
 
I honestly dont see how blending oils would have caused your valve issue?
They could just be carboned up from age---- take your car for a spirited drive from 20+ mins - really get those valves scorching hot.
 
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