Finally did it -- Toyota Tundra!

Status
Not open for further replies.
The new truck looks good! Good idea to have a backup for the aging Jetta too.

222*F for the trans seems high, but it may be normal for newer automatics to run hotter. That's probably why they chose to use a dummy gauge rather than give an actual temp. If the transmission seems to shift normally, the temperature is probably normal, but 222*F would be cooking a lot of ATs.
 
Quick update:

Been three years, just shy of 3 years and 1 month actually. As a recap, bought as a CPO with 73kmiles and a warranty until 100k; new rear brakes and tires, new air filter, oil change.

The front diff did need to be rebuilt at 84k. At times I think I am getting a bearing noise, so time will tell on that repair. I recently did the serpentine, the tensioner and plugs; one of the plugs had a fair amount of oil on it so I suspect the valve cover gaskets need to be done. Change diff and most of the trans oil around 80k also, done coolant, done power steering fluid, done some of the brake fluid too (no full flushes just partial ones). Cleaned the throttle body just before plugs, as I thought the idle was off (tossed in a bottle of injector cleaner too). No other work done.

Currently at 122k. Lifetime mpg is 19.4. Obviously the truck is never worked nor driven fast! Some paint chips, some pits in the windshield. No real rust, as I've kept it coated in Fluid Film. I did find a dent recently in it, but you have to look for it. Front bumper alignment is off, but so are most Tundra's.
wink.gif


While it came with new tires, I decided to replace the low-rated Bridgestones with Michelin LTX MS2's. They seem fine but were not the tires I wanted in snow, so in winter I run a set of Hankook iPikes. Both sets of tires are the stock 255 width, and while that is fine for snow I suspect, based upon shoulder wear, that it could be a bit wider for all seasons.

I ran TGMO 0W20 from 80k until 120k, when I put in PP 10W30 (hey, it was on sale!). Might go back to 0W20 this winter, might not. Toyota oil filters. 10k OCI, doesn't use any oil. Used Maxlife for ATF and PS fluid. Mobil 1 for diffs and TC. Gets washed a couple of times per summer, vacuumed once a month in summer and every other winter (or whenever I feel like it). FF twice/year.

The rims for the snow tires were a CL special (stock Tundra steelies). The running boards were another CL special. Rusty but who cares. The cap was a CL find also. The Scanguage and Prodigy brake controller were not, nor was the Cobra 75 install; but only the CB antenna and brake controller bought for this vehicle (already owned the other parts). Weathertech mats.

Originally I had planned on only driving about 10k/year, but since I sold my car last year it's been my daily driver. No huge complaints:
-cruise control is aweful, and will send the automatic trans hunting on hills
-trans likes to unlock the convertor for no good reason
-dashboard lights dim automatically if you turn on the headlights. Which is fine, at night, but during the day I often have to readjust the light, or I can't read the radio.
-mpg isn't that great, nor is parking!
-ride is bouncy, but I'll give that a meh--I kinda prefer it to feel a bit like a truck. But I do notice it when I get back into it after driving the Camry.
-I consider the throttle tip-in a bit excessive. Really have to roll into the throttle slowly to be gentle and to avoid TC unlocking.

Overall I like the truck. Simple, basic, but does have decent bells & whistles--remote keyless entry, and all I have to do is bump the key and it will start. When I was shopping I was not interested in cylinder deactivation or diesel or other mpg things, as again I wasn't going to drive it "that much". Quiet ride. Four doors, the kids can get in and out on their own. Bench seat up front, for seating for six. Wanted to be able to pull a small travel trailer in the future (plans changed but that is why I got this and not a stationwagon). Does what I want of it.

Went out garage saling today, and of course forgot to take the truck, as "oh we won't buy anything big". Got sent back for a $5 chair... The Ryobi's were found at the transfer station (if I don't find cheap batteries then back they will go).
23saikj.jpg

The cap does limit loading a bit, but honestly I don't want to hoist anything up that high if it's that tall! The cap works well for my slight uses (trash runs, moving boxes, etc). It's really an overgrown station wagon, and arguably I could be better off with a minivan.

Needs to be washed!
2im72hv.jpg


2n85z0l.jpg

The cap is a very dark green. In bright sunlight you can see it, otherwise it looks black. I think the green cap works well on the white truck. [When I bought it, my boss derided it as a plumbers truck.] Again, a CL find, so that was the choice. Cap didn't come with keys but the struts work fine. Incidentally, the wrecking yard where I got the cap from marked the vehicle VIN onto the pulled parts; the truck that this was on was only a few s/n's from mine! Light damage on some corners, so I suspect that owner rearended someone...

5x367t.jpg


2lu7xoj.jpg

Getting the middle person up front is a bit cramped but doable--that small box comes out, and usually holds debris from traveling (maps, food, etc). About time to clean that out too. Ashtray was removed and a small board inserted, that is where the brake controller and SG reside. The Cobra 75 is a small handheld unit so it floats around, often hidden under the seat.

119m59v.jpg


2z8chmv.jpg

Not a great pic of my camper, but it applies. Taken before I got the cap, of course. Camper weighs something like 2k dry, has a 2,500lb GVWR--so the truck pulls with ease. Camper was another CL find, just like the prior popup I had.

Originally I planned to pay off in 2 years, while being in warranty the whole time; but had a change in financial plans. Received the bank statement saying "paid" today, so this week I'll see about getting the title.

Will see how long I own. Originally I planned on driving 10k/year for 10 years; trading out around 170k or so. Wanted a "nice" third vehicle to do stuff that a beater daily driver couldn't do (move stuff, mostly). If I can get anything to take some miles off the truck (driving at about 30k/year right now) it would obviously help. At the moment, nothing makes me want to get rid of it. I can't say I "love" it, just that it does what I want of it. Thus it'll stay until I have good financial reason to get rid of it, I guess, or if I start to feel it unreliable.
 
Nice truck. A family member had me detail his 2010 Tundra the other day, has the 5.7L. I drove it a couple miles, good power, drove nice. Not a big fan of how far away the radio is, and not a big fan of the instrument cluster. You have to look into these holes deep down to see certain gauges. Wasn't easy on the eyes. This one has about 67k miles on the OE Michelin LTX tires,, they're very very cracked and are very low on tread. The truck literally sees 99% of straight highway driving of 65-75mph.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
The front diff did need to be rebuilt at 84k.


What happened here? Common problem?

How much did it cost to get fixed?
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: supton
The front diff did need to be rebuilt at 84k.


What happened here? Common problem?

How much did it cost to get fixed?


Common enough to have a TSB over it. Of course, impossible to tell how many were affected by it. Did some looking, and it appears some who are out of warranty just ignore it. Take that for what it's worth.

Cost, it seems $2k, at least, when done at a dealer. Not really sure what it costs but there are a number of parts that got replaced (axle, couple bearings, other parts).

Cost me $50 as I was under CPO warranty.

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Nice truck. A family member had me detail his 2010 Tundra the other day, has the 5.7L. I drove it a couple miles, good power, drove nice. Not a big fan of how far away the radio is, and not a big fan of the instrument cluster. You have to look into these holes deep down to see certain gauges. Wasn't easy on the eyes. This one has about 67k miles on the OE Michelin LTX tires,, they're very very cracked and are very low on tread. The truck literally sees 99% of straight highway driving of 65-75mph.


Hmm, the gauges don't bother me. I mean, I have no love for the setup but
21.gif
I'm also not 6 foot plus, maybe that makes a difference.

Reaching for the passenger side HVAC temp is a reach otherwise I don't think much of it. I guess it's a bit of a reach.

As for the radio, where I have a column shifter and always use "S" mode I will rest my wrist on the shifter and work the radio like that. [S mode is ... shift? certainly ain't sport! This is just below Drive and at that point the up/down buttons on the shifter are activated. All you can do is lock out upper gears--put it into 4th and the trans won't go into 5 or 6. But you can't command an upshift if it won't want to.]
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
smart buy, huge resale at any mileage.


NADA on my truck shows $15,250 for average trade-in, and $19,800 for clean retail. I bought it for $22k so $7k depreciation / 14c/m.

My Camry, $20k purchase, now $5,400 average trade-in, $8,725 retail. 13c/m depreciation. I plan on dropping collision insurance on it next summer as it's just not worth much anymore (worth something to me but not anyone else).

Such is the "joy" of having to buy new and nice.
 
Lifetime MPG at 19.4 sounds pretty great What were the rating on the sticker for that year. My brother has been going back and forth on Tundra and F150. He wants a Tundra but the MPG rating are so low.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
Lifetime MPG at 19.4 sounds pretty great What were the rating on the sticker for that year. My brother has been going back and forth on Tundra and F150. He wants a Tundra but the MPG rating are so low.


Sticker on mine is 13/19. I want to say the 4.6's dropped with the 2014 refresh to 13/18.

My mpg is atypical. Fuelly is like 15-16. And to be fair, if I use it around town, I get 15-16 also. It's only because of my long highway commute and partial attempts for mpg (coasting to stops when I can, keeping it to 60-65mph) that I can eek out decent mpg.

One summer I had three tanks in a row at 21.7, followed by a fourth that made 22.0. Then winter gas hit and that was that.
wink.gif
Nothing but backroads driving, nothing over 60mph, all that stuff that really ought not be done.
 
Very nice looking truck supton! My FILs organization switched from GM trucks to Tacomas and Tundras for their small number of fleet trucks years ago. Never anything more than normal maintenance items for the ~200K miles they keep them.

I'd love to be back into a light truck again for my daily driver. I miss the early 1990's, when you could get a nice new basic full sized work truck for $13K, or a ~2yr/old 4x4 for $15K.

I just can't justify one for my 80mi round trip work commute.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: hatt
Lifetime MPG at 19.4 sounds pretty great What were the rating on the sticker for that year. My brother has been going back and forth on Tundra and F150. He wants a Tundra but the MPG rating are so low.


Sticker on mine is 13/19. I want to say the 4.6's dropped with the 2014 refresh to 13/18.

My mpg is atypical. Fuelly is like 15-16. And to be fair, if I use it around town, I get 15-16 also. It's only because of my long highway commute and partial attempts for mpg (coasting to stops when I can, keeping it to 60-65mph) that I can eek out decent mpg.

One summer I had three tanks in a row at 21.7, followed by a fourth that made 22.0. Then winter gas hit and that was that.
wink.gif
Nothing but backroads driving, nothing over 60mph, all that stuff that really ought not be done.
It doesn't sound like a lot of difference. My F150 gets in the 16s around town. And on backroad trips gets over 20. What's the deal with such low gears in the Tundras? Standard gears look to be 3.91 to 4.30. I don't think you can even get F150s with those. That's sure not helping mileage.
 
Careful, must include transmission gearing. Toyota does not use very deep first gearing. For example, the 5.7L gets a 3.33:1 for first gear, while the 4.6 (not sure if for all years) used a 3.52:1. I don't know what Ford uses but the GM 6L80 is 4.02:1 first.

As such, Toyota uses pretty deep rear gears to make up for that. IMO they do lose some mpg to that, as a slower turning pinion ought to cost less mpg.

My truck has the tow package, so it uses 4.10:1 in the rear (non-tow 4.6 is 3.90:1, and all 5.7's used 4.30:1). rpm at 60mph on mine is about 1,500 or 1,600. Fifth and sixth are overdrive gears.

Honestly, with my low-torque engine I wouldn't want taller rear gears, as it simply needs to be wound out for most hills. It's a struggle to hold 6th below 60mph, ground has to be dead flat. In the rolling hills around me I often lock out sixth.
 
There you go--I couldn't remember off-hand the top gear ratio.

3.33x4.3 is a 14.32:1 takeoff ratio. The same ratio for the F150 4.17:1 would be a rear ratio of 3.43:1.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top