What oil should I use for 2000 cavalier that burns

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My girl friend has a 2000 cavalier that burns oil. It has 95k miles and the 2.2 motor. It sounds good and runs fine but seeps from the valve cover gasket and possibly the main rear seal. It's not pouring oil but it eats some. Her uncle has her worried that it's going to blow up. I told her long as she keeps oil in it it should be fine.

It's over due for a change though and I want your guys opinion.
Should I go with a straight 30 weight? I'm worried that may kill the oil pump. Should I just use 5w30 and add Lucus? Or 10w30?
Thanks in advanced for the advice.
 
No Lucas. Try some Valvoline MaxLife, maybe step it up a notch to 10w40 while it's warm out. In the winter switch back to 5w30. Unless MaxLife comes in 5w40? Not sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
No Lucas. Try some Valvoline MaxLife, maybe step it up a notch to 10w40 while it's warm out. In the winter switch back to 5w30. Unless MaxLife comes in 5w40? Not sure.


+1
 
Ok thanks guys. I'll be getting the stuff tonight or tomorrow. Fram oil filter work okay? also max life synthetic blend? Or full synthetic? I'm kind of worried about full synthetic breaking free crud in the motor since she hasn't had a change in a long time.
 
I would definitely go with a 10w40 high mileage oil for this summer. Fram OCOD will be fine. I would probably go with autozone/advance oil change special that has a high mileage oil. Would probably be your cheapest route.

My first advice would be to look up the torque settings for the valve cover. Then go around and re torque them. Who knows maybe one has wiggled itself loose. EDIT looks like 7.42 ft/lbs or 89 inch/lbs

Also when you change her oil make sure u save the filter and cut it open and post the pics.
 
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Okay I'll do that on the filter. Me and her just got together and she has no idea how long it's been since she had a change. Well over a year. I cringed to say the least. Lol
 
Yeah I have been adding oil to it as we go with some best choice synthetic blend high mileage.
She just told me it's never been changed in the 4 years she's owned it....
Correction she got it in March of 2010 lol
 
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Originally Posted By: SeasonalEclipse
Yeah I have been adding oil to it as we go with some best choice synthetic blend high mileage.
She just told me it's never been changed in the 4 years she's owned it....
Yikes! Post back with how it goes, if it comes out in clumps. I would change the oil often, like every 1,000 miles at least twice to clean it out, then continue with a normal interval.
 
Originally Posted By: SeasonalEclipse
My girl friend has a 2000 cavalier that burns oil. It has 95k miles and the 2.2 motor. It sounds good and runs fine but seeps from the valve cover gasket and possibly the main rear seal. It's not pouring oil but it eats some. Her uncle has her worried that it's going to blow up. I told her long as she keeps oil in it it should be fine.

It's over due for a change though and I want your guys opinion.
Should I go with a straight 30 weight? I'm worried that may kill the oil pump. Should I just use 5w30 and add Lucus? Or 10w30?
Thanks in advanced for the advice.


I would not put lucas oil in a lawn mower; and nothing short of a rebuild is going to stop oil burning...But if you have leaking seals, this stuff has worked for me and many others: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Leaks-8-Ounce-Bottle-Professional-by-ATP-Automotive-/111714037901?hash=item1a02acf08d:g:Qi0AAOSwhkRWd8Pb

For $12-14, it is worth a gamble IMHO. I have used it successfully on PS leaks (seeps) and it worked after about a week or so of running. I have heard of others using it with success on engines and trannies.

And I would definitely re tighten/check the valve cover bolts. Valve cover gaskets sound like a rather easy fix.
 
Wow, she hasn't changed oil in 6 years? I guess that shows you how tough the 2.2 is. My 92 Cavalier with the 2.2 has 213,500 on it and still runs good and I change the oil every 5,000 miles on it.

I currently run Trop-Artic 5W-30 blend in it but have run Pennzoil HM in it in the past.

I would run a high Mileage oil in hers and see what happens.

Wayne
 
I probably wouldn't do another oil change after this one till 6mos/5k miles. Since the person that will be driving it never changed the oil. The last one was at least 6 plus years ago assuming it was changed prior to changing hands.
 
Torque the valve cover gaskets, and change the bloody oil!!!!
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Maxlife sounds good. Another option would be to use a HDEO for better detergent properties and do frequent oil changes. Oil filters won't matter with such an abused engine so use whatever USA made filter is cheapest. Easy choice for your climate would be Rotella T in 10W30. If it starts to leak more after a few Rotella changes you can switch to MaxLife and hope the seal conditioners work. Just another option to consider.
 
Well the 6 year OCI explains why it's burning. I'm sure the rings and valve guide seals are done.

Personally, I wouldn't touch it. If you change the oil and something goes wrong after, it's going to be your fault. Have her take it a quick lube. It doesn't matter anymore at this point.
 
Those little ecotec engines are awesome. My aunt has similar maintenance prcedures, she went to vegas left me the car.. she was almoat 7k late for and oci, took like 3 or 3.5 qts to get it to full mark. She took it to quick lube ( think they used valvoline), then I took over M1 for 5k to clean it out, then rotella to get the rest out.
I'd use rotella t5 for the cleaning, put up with consumption untill the engine is cleaned up, fix the leaks at least vc.

She is not the only one like this, people abuse cars all the time and they run and run. People here will say its done for seem to not have real understandig how much (effort?) It takes to kill an engine. My first car had no oil changes during my ownership. Probably good 25-35k on either chevron or halvoline (thats all my dad used) dino. It was overheated and driven with stuck t stat for a week. How did the engine fail? It didn't, I wrecked the car before and lubrication problems occured. Though I did keep her topped off
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: SeasonalEclipse
Yeah I have been adding oil to it as we go with some best choice synthetic blend high mileage.
She just told me it's never been changed in the 4 years she's owned it....
Yikes! Post back with how it goes, if it comes out in clumps. I would change the oil often, like every 1,000 miles at least twice to clean it out, then continue with a normal interval.


Situation like this, it might be ok if it has been leaking a lot. In any event, while you're replacing the valve cover gasket, check to see if there's sludge inside and if there is, go with 1000 miles and PYB for the cleaning.

Just say "no" to Lucas, and the normal viscosity should be fine.
 
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Originally Posted By: gallydif
Mobil super high mileage 10w-40. You can find it at walmart and it currently has a $7 rebate per 5 qt jug.


+1....then change Mobil Super HM 5w30 after 3000 miles. Use a cheaper filter like a Purolator Classic.

After 3K oil change, fill again to Mobil Super HM 5w30....with the Classic filter...and go to an OCI for another 3K.

The above should help clean up the engine nicely.

All future OC can then go to 5K with Mobil Super 5w30.
 
Use Pennzoil High Mileage, SuperTech High Mileage or Valvoline MaxLife (SynBlend version) in 10W-40. Use 5W-30 if you have colder winters. The high mileage oils will help a little with oil burning & will definitely slow the leaks. You are correct on blowing the engine up, it will do just fine as long as you keep the oil topped up! Filter doesn't matter as much but I prefer FRAM.
 
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