I'm looking at a late 90s Chrysler Sebring convertible to replace my motorcycle for some summer fun. The car has the 2.7 sludge monster of an engine in it. The price is right so I'm willing to take the chance on a sludgy engine. I am not a fan of chemical engine flushes (afraid some crud may block an oil passage). Will a decent Dino oil changed frequently (2000 miles) be effective for a gradual, long term engine cleaning?
Gradual Sludge Removal
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MMO
And, about the dino oil: Yes it will, maybe consider 2500 miles and PYB. That will clean it up as well, a very slow and steady gradual pace.
And, about the dino oil: Yes it will, maybe consider 2500 miles and PYB. That will clean it up as well, a very slow and steady gradual pace.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Auto-RX
+1 on Auto-Rx. Forget the MMO. Or a cheap synthetic.
Pull a valve cover so you know what your dealing with first.
Auto-RX
+1 on Auto-Rx. Forget the MMO. Or a cheap synthetic.
Pull a valve cover so you know what your dealing with first.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Auto-RX
+1 on Auto-Rx. Forget the MMO. Or a cheap synthetic.
Pull a valve cover so you know what your dealing with first.
Forget the cheap synthetic, or use a cheap synthetic?
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Auto-RX
+1 on Auto-Rx. Forget the MMO. Or a cheap synthetic.
Pull a valve cover so you know what your dealing with first.
Forget the cheap synthetic, or use a cheap synthetic?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I've never heard the words Chrysler Sebring and fun used in the same sentence before?
Run synthetic oil in "sludge monster engines". Some engines run really hot in certain hot spots and that can oxidize and sludge the oil. Other engines have coolant intrusion problems.
+1 on the Marvel Mystery Oil
Run multiple 2,000-3,000 mile oil changes on Pennzoil or Valvoline conventional with the appropriate amount of MMO.
Run multiple 2,000-3,000 mile oil changes on Pennzoil or Valvoline conventional with the appropriate amount of MMO.
Auto-RX/MMO first. Then run a 10W-30 or 5W-40 HDEO or a Euro-spec oil.
Auto-Rx, follow instructions exactly.
I give this advice despite being one of the bigger Chrysler advocates on here: The 2.7 is a piece of junk. Even if its not sludged, its a pretty terrible engine. I wouldn't touch it unless the car was practically free, and even then I'd start looking for a 3.2 or 3.5 to swap in... which is only an option with the Intrepid/Concorde, not the Sebring/Avenger since the 3.2 and 3.5 weren't offered except for the 2007-up iteration, and then it was a pretty rare option.
That said, when I used to frequent the Usenet car forums there was a guy pushing beyond 200,000 miles on an Intrepid 2.7. He had done frequent changes and used MMO religiously for years. So there are a few of them that have survived, but wow. Just not worth the risk IMO.
That said, when I used to frequent the Usenet car forums there was a guy pushing beyond 200,000 miles on an Intrepid 2.7. He had done frequent changes and used MMO religiously for years. So there are a few of them that have survived, but wow. Just not worth the risk IMO.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
What he said. Forget the MMO and RX, get a different car, unless you consider the purchase price throw-away money. The 2.7 is a grenade.
I see we're all in agreement.
Originally Posted By: CT8
How sludged up is the engine?
This. Even though I agree with most of the comments above, IF the oil is changed frequently enough the 2.7 is a durable engine.
Since you are getting a deal, perhaps removing a valve cover would be a good idea.. Then a pan drop/cleaning of that plus the valve covers if it is bad and also make sure the pickup is clear.
Then yes, very short intervals with a good cleaning dino, gradually increasing to a normal oci. Funny how other sludge monster engines get saved but everyone here has already given up on this 2.7.
Edit: once cleaned, synthetic oil. Definitely synthetic; IIRC the 2.7 has some hot spots.
How sludged up is the engine?
This. Even though I agree with most of the comments above, IF the oil is changed frequently enough the 2.7 is a durable engine.
Since you are getting a deal, perhaps removing a valve cover would be a good idea.. Then a pan drop/cleaning of that plus the valve covers if it is bad and also make sure the pickup is clear.
Then yes, very short intervals with a good cleaning dino, gradually increasing to a normal oci. Funny how other sludge monster engines get saved but everyone here has already given up on this 2.7.
Edit: once cleaned, synthetic oil. Definitely synthetic; IIRC the 2.7 has some hot spots.
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Originally Posted By: Kuato
Definitely synthetic; IIRC the 2.7 has some hot spots.
This. Definitely run synthetic. I'm pretty sure a 2.7 that was maintained from new with reasonable synthetic changes would never have sludged.
Definitely synthetic; IIRC the 2.7 has some hot spots.
This. Definitely run synthetic. I'm pretty sure a 2.7 that was maintained from new with reasonable synthetic changes would never have sludged.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
A co-worker's wife had a Sebring ragtop, bought used, it was fine for a while then some oil passages plugged and it lost the bottom end. It might be ok for a long while, it might lunch tomorrow, you don't know it's history. He researched all the complaints against the 2.7 and it was generally thought that the 2.7 was designed too tight internally and would positively sludge unless syn was used religiously as spec'd . If you gave me one I'd sell it. What are the odds syn was used on short OCIs for it's previous life?
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
A co-worker's wife had a Sebring ragtop, bought used, it was fine for a while then some oil passages plugged and it lost the bottom end. It might be ok for a long while, it might lunch tomorrow, you don't know it's history. He researched all the complaints against the 2.7 and it was generally thought that the 2.7 was designed too tight internally and would positively sludge unless syn was used religiously as spec'd . If you gave me one I'd sell it. What are the odds syn was used on short OCIs for it's previous life?
Guess he's out driving it....
A co-worker's wife had a Sebring ragtop, bought used, it was fine for a while then some oil passages plugged and it lost the bottom end. It might be ok for a long while, it might lunch tomorrow, you don't know it's history. He researched all the complaints against the 2.7 and it was generally thought that the 2.7 was designed too tight internally and would positively sludge unless syn was used religiously as spec'd . If you gave me one I'd sell it. What are the odds syn was used on short OCIs for it's previous life?
Guess he's out driving it....
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