Real quick oil question.

[OpenClose]

I'm due for an oil change on my 99 regal GS that specifies 10W-30 and is running 5W-30

I'm sticking with my brands of PurePlus Platinum and FRAM ultra synthetic filter.

But between oil types and weights, what should I get?

Regular Platinum, or High-Mileage platinum? (They have 5L jugs at Wal-Mart now)

5W-30 or 10W-30?

If I don't hear much, I might go with 10W-30 High Mileage. But I want to hear some opinions.

 

[bchannell]

My vote would be pp 10w30, why mess with success.

 

[SavagePatch]

PPHM because it's a '99 and 5w30 because I don't know what the weather in Indiana is like or your driving conditions.

 

[alarmguy]

I would use what's called for, 10/30. Older engine, looser tolerances I can't see going to a 5/30.. In fact I just went the other way to 10/40 in my daughters 2000 grandam for that reason.

 

[mjoekingz28]

What says the owner manual?

Is 10w-30 appropriate to the temps you see in winter?

Probably states 10w is ok to zero degree Fahrenheit.

What is it like in Indiana in wintertime?

 

[OpenClose]

Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
PPHM because it's a '99 and 5w30 because I don't know what the weather in Indiana is like or your driving conditions.


I live here and "I" don't know what the weather is like here.

It changes as much as 30-40F between days, sometimes we have a drought and it kills the lawn. Other days we have floods and it drowns the lawn.

One winter, I was outside in shorts and a tank top working, and then within a couple days, the town was covered in a quarter-inch of ice.

Yesterday we had tornadoes.


So...those are your driving conditions, I suppose. Just take the average of every weather pattern you could possibly experience.


What exactly does a 5W vs 10W get me? I did it once because I figured it allows the oil to flow better when cool, reducing cold engine wear. But at the same time, they say the higher weight is for better protection as well.

I might go with my original with High Mileage 10W-30 to condition the seals. But I also hear that when you go HM, you don't go back.

 

[Kira]

My vote is factory recommendation. Did you state the miles on the odo (without tenths)?

 

[OpenClose]

It's in my sig.

I just broke 116,000 yesterday.

 

[John_Conrad]

if your not leaking oil any where, then no need for the HM oil that i know of.

if your going to use this oil both through this summer and your next winter in Indiana, i would use the 5w-30.

if you will use this oil largely through this summer's heat, then you could use the 10w-30 before going to 5w-30 for winter.

you have already been using 5w-30 without any issues.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Word on the street is that GM has a few hundred engineers in their engine department, and several engines running on a test bed at any given time. Apparently they record all kinds of data and it is stored for their use as well as all the GM engineers employed in the future. They work with engineers employed by large petroleum companies and together they examine all the data recorded by all the engineers during all the tests performed over the last 90 to 100 years. Then they specify the grade of oil for your engine.

You don't have to listen to them but I would.

 

[Merkava_4]

If it was a quick oil question, you would've had it all in one sentence.

 

[Bud_One]

I agree with BChannell -
PP 10W30 would be my choice. It's factory spec'd too.

 

[OpenClose]

Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
Then they specify the grade of oil for your engine.


Actually, as far as I know, they actually determine a fuel grade to use before they even start designing the engine, and then all the specifications and tolerances are put in place with that grade in mind. So I guess that would make it MORE important. But it is the hot number it is based on. So for instance, some oil brands actually recommend a 5W-30 in a 10W-30 car. I think Mobil1 was one culprit.


Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If it was a quick oil question, you would've had it all in one sentence.


Alright, you caught me.

Actually, what I meant was that I didn't need a huge answer, just a quick one because I was planning on doing this right after work which would have been about an hour later. Of course, we got yet another tornado today, so it may have to be a weekend project.


So 10W-30 is what I'll go with, then. Now the debate is between regular and high mileage.

The car runs dex-cool, and it seemed like it was prone to getting sludged up. Last time I did a flush, I did several flushes, because it came out like mud.

Now, it seems like it gets rather cloudy. Not as bad as it was, but it does make me wonder if it is getting contaminated somewhere. Either it is related to the intake manifold gasket problem, or the problem is elsewhere where oil would get in. I would think I would have MANY more problems if I was getting oil in my coolant.

But either way, I do wonder if I could benefit from those other additives. Or if I would swell the seals, cause them to retract, and thus create MORE leaks.

This was a lot simpler when I didn't no squat about cars.

 

[Merkava_4]

If by chance your Walmart SuperTech is bottled by Citgo, that would be the best choice; I'm basing that opinion on my experience with it in my 3800 and I think you may have a 3800 in your Buick. To be fair though, I've never tried PP 10W-30, but I'm a little afraid to because I suspect in may be the same formulation as QSUD 10W-30. My 3800 didn't like QSUD 10W-30.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Oh no Merkava 4.


This thread could go over ten pages now that you said that.

 

[mjoekingz28]

"This was alot simpler when I didnt know squat about cars."


Hang in there fella! Looking back it was neat to see all the right things I did when I didn't know any better. Also, just taking on a project without preparation and doing it well is a pretty nice memory. But then there are the ugly times that sometimes go forgotten.

Like doing ten things perfect and barely messing up on one- and it causes trouble. Like doing an oil change and not wiping the filter base or over/undertorquing the drain plug. Or maybe not securing the fill cap and oil leaks out.

These could be disastrous, but often we get lucky and catch our mistake or do a double take and see something we missed.




Often, we spend more on an oil change than someone who takes it in does.

 

[BrocLuno]

A 30 is a 30. The cold pour "weight" is irrelevant. If the car likes the 30, stay with it. If it's a bit rat'ly, try a 15W-40

 

[Triton_330]

My father has a 98 Buick LeSabre (naturally aspirated 3800) with over 100k, and his car has run fine on everything from 5w-30 to 15w-50.

Your SC Regal has the same 3800 (though with a supercharger), over 100k as well.

I wouldn't worry too much about what grade you use. However, if you have a heavy right foot, I'd go for a 40 grade, such as either M1 0w-40, Rotella T6 5w-40, or Pennzoil 10w-40.

But to answer your specific question, you won't see much of a difference between 5w-30 and 10w-30. The first number is only the "cold flow grade"... the number after the dash is the true grade at operating temperature. And that is why I said it makes a difference for you, having a supercharged motor, depending on your right foot. If you romp on it alot, go for a 40 grade. If not, there's nothing wrong with either a 5-or-10w-30.

~ Triton

 

[smithph]

I have a 3800 and have done some UOA's one it. 5w-30 and 10w30 made no difference on the wear metals in the UOA. Enjoy your sleeper SC.

 

[tiger862]

Simple answer is 5W30 PP or HM won't matter. PP quarts are high so get an extra 5 qt. container as top off.