I have a set of these, they only come out for special occasions.
Which Screw Extractor?
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Originally Posted By: Trav
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
Why jump to the last resort if you don't have to ? If I can go through the bolt dead center without kissing the threads, I'm gonna try to back it out with an extractor first. From my experience, I'll know immediately if the bolt's gonna come out as soon as I start to turn the tap handle. If I feel the extractor start to twist, then I know it's time to stop. Those spiral type start twisting immediately. The tapered square type feel a lot stronger and bite harder without pressing out on the sides of the broken bolt. The main thing is use the correct size drill bit and get it dead center. I go 1/32'' smaller than the recommended drill size on blind holes.
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
Why jump to the last resort if you don't have to ? If I can go through the bolt dead center without kissing the threads, I'm gonna try to back it out with an extractor first. From my experience, I'll know immediately if the bolt's gonna come out as soon as I start to turn the tap handle. If I feel the extractor start to twist, then I know it's time to stop. Those spiral type start twisting immediately. The tapered square type feel a lot stronger and bite harder without pressing out on the sides of the broken bolt. The main thing is use the correct size drill bit and get it dead center. I go 1/32'' smaller than the recommended drill size on blind holes.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I rarely use extractors, when I do its when the bolt broke going in for some reason (usually a defective bolt) or just to remove the last remaining threads left in the hole.
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
With those extractors, do you use the left drill bit first then (assuming the bit didnt take it out,) tap the extractor into the hole?
I rarely use extractors, when I do its when the bolt broke going in for some reason (usually a defective bolt) or just to remove the last remaining threads left in the hole.
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
With those extractors, do you use the left drill bit first then (assuming the bit didnt take it out,) tap the extractor into the hole?
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Trav
I rarely use extractors, when I do its when the bolt broke going in for some reason (usually a defective bolt) or just to remove the last remaining threads left in the hole.
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
With those extractors, do you use the left drill bit first then (assuming the bit didnt take it out,) tap the extractor into the hole?
Exactly. Like I said earlier, I rarely use them because I have always worked in the salt belt be it here or in Germany and easy outs of any type are no match for rotten bolts.
If You live in a climate where rust is not an issue drilling the bolt out up to the threads may be considered a last resort but in the rust belt it is 100% the best option with very few exceptions.
I deal with broken bolts, studs and rusted away nut flats on a daily basis
Believe me the better quality the easy out or tap the harder it is to drill out if it breaks.
Get some of these, get small sizes up to about 5/16, that will get most of the easily broken smaller bolt sizes.
This little set is really okay, it is 8% M42 cobalt which is very good and many times better than HSS or Ti Coated. You can get small size singles also.
I recommend buying 6 packs of the smallest sizes like 1/8" and 1/4"
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-In...hand+drill+bits
Again 8% M42 cobalt.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-30505ZR-135-Degree-Handed-Mechanics/dp/B00BRGLNOS/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51AcSB9ZfcL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR90%2C160_&refRID=0V3KP10TQX6K9NPZNHVM
These are a must if you live in the rust belt, these have been a God send. I was skeptical at first but not anymore, the Irwin have held up very well and performed better than I ever expected.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-T...+Bolt+Extractor
Originally Posted By: Trav
I rarely use extractors, when I do its when the bolt broke going in for some reason (usually a defective bolt) or just to remove the last remaining threads left in the hole.
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
With those extractors, do you use the left drill bit first then (assuming the bit didnt take it out,) tap the extractor into the hole?
Exactly. Like I said earlier, I rarely use them because I have always worked in the salt belt be it here or in Germany and easy outs of any type are no match for rotten bolts.
If You live in a climate where rust is not an issue drilling the bolt out up to the threads may be considered a last resort but in the rust belt it is 100% the best option with very few exceptions.
I deal with broken bolts, studs and rusted away nut flats on a daily basis
Believe me the better quality the easy out or tap the harder it is to drill out if it breaks.
Get some of these, get small sizes up to about 5/16, that will get most of the easily broken smaller bolt sizes.
This little set is really okay, it is 8% M42 cobalt which is very good and many times better than HSS or Ti Coated. You can get small size singles also.
I recommend buying 6 packs of the smallest sizes like 1/8" and 1/4"
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-In...hand+drill+bits
Again 8% M42 cobalt.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-30505ZR-135-Degree-Handed-Mechanics/dp/B00BRGLNOS/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51AcSB9ZfcL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR90%2C160_&refRID=0V3KP10TQX6K9NPZNHVM
These are a must if you live in the rust belt, these have been a God send. I was skeptical at first but not anymore, the Irwin have held up very well and performed better than I ever expected.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-T...+Bolt+Extractor
I've had pretty good luck with the snap on spiral ones. We had to remove several broken fasteners a week. What we did was use a very small carbide ball in a dremel to even the surface of the broken bolt. We then used a tiny dental bit to drill a pilot hole for the screws in the extractor set. Worked most of the time. Never broke an EZ out either.
Originally Posted By: Trav
This little set is really okay, it is 8% M42 cobalt which is very good and many times better than HSS or Ti Coated.
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-In...hand+drill+bits
Again 8% M42 cobalt….
According to the Amazon Q&A, these are actually 5% cobalt, not 8%. Does it make a difference? I haven't got a clue. If you want the 8% bits, add the suffix "b" to the Irwin part number, and be prepared to pay more.
This little set is really okay, it is 8% M42 cobalt which is very good and many times better than HSS or Ti Coated.
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-In...hand+drill+bits
Again 8% M42 cobalt….
According to the Amazon Q&A, these are actually 5% cobalt, not 8%. Does it make a difference? I haven't got a clue. If you want the 8% bits, add the suffix "b" to the Irwin part number, and be prepared to pay more.
Sorry I read %8 M42, the 5% M35 will work fine just have a shorter life when used on harder grade bolts. I would pay the difference if its not crazy money.
Originally Posted By: 67lemans
I've had pretty good luck with the snap on spiral ones. We had to remove several broken fasteners a week. What we did was use a very small carbide ball in a dremel to even the surface of the broken bolt. We then used a tiny dental bit to drill a pilot hole for the screws in the extractor set. Worked most of the time. Never broke an EZ out either.
I haven't broke any either since one broke on me many years ago when I didn't know any better.
No offense but please don't advocate using them here, a lot of these guys are not pro's and based on your post may go buy a set of Snap On spirals and try to remove a broken bolt rotted in an engine block.
You are correct if you get 90% of the bolt drilled out so its just a hollow shell an easy out will bring the threads of the bolt out.
You cant convey years of experience on the correct use of some things in a forum post. Nice trick with a burr in the Dremel to flatten the broken bolt, that's useful info.
For anyone who wants to read more on this subject..
https://www.google.com/search?q=broken+ez+out&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=broken+ez+out&start=0
I've had pretty good luck with the snap on spiral ones. We had to remove several broken fasteners a week. What we did was use a very small carbide ball in a dremel to even the surface of the broken bolt. We then used a tiny dental bit to drill a pilot hole for the screws in the extractor set. Worked most of the time. Never broke an EZ out either.
I haven't broke any either since one broke on me many years ago when I didn't know any better.
No offense but please don't advocate using them here, a lot of these guys are not pro's and based on your post may go buy a set of Snap On spirals and try to remove a broken bolt rotted in an engine block.
You are correct if you get 90% of the bolt drilled out so its just a hollow shell an easy out will bring the threads of the bolt out.
You cant convey years of experience on the correct use of some things in a forum post. Nice trick with a burr in the Dremel to flatten the broken bolt, that's useful info.
For anyone who wants to read more on this subject..
https://www.google.com/search?q=broken+ez+out&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=broken+ez+out&start=0
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The hardest part is drilling a hole through dead center; once you've done that, you're home free.
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
The trick to getting the hole straight is to file or grind the broken bolt flat if raised above the work and use a sharp center punch. If the bolt is broken below the surface use a piece of steel line that fits in the hole to keep the drill centered instead of trying to free hand it.
I have an old Blue point extractor set that has a selection of guide tubes an drills for each easy out size. A good set of left handed drill bits are the thing to use here, they are a must in every mechanics box.
A good rule to follow is if you live in the rust belt and the bolt broke because its rotten forget the easy outs altogether and go for the drill. Broken easy outs of any type and taps can be the PITA no one needs.
Like the liner tube (?) idea (I'd guess "steel line" is a typo), which I havn't tried. Likewise left-hand bits, though they might be hard to find here.
I suppose as a non-pro subject to some kack-handedness, you could use guide tubes on emergent studs as well. Big one to fit over the stud, smaller concentric ones on top of the stud.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The hardest part is drilling a hole through dead center; once you've done that, you're home free.
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
The trick to getting the hole straight is to file or grind the broken bolt flat if raised above the work and use a sharp center punch. If the bolt is broken below the surface use a piece of steel line that fits in the hole to keep the drill centered instead of trying to free hand it.
I have an old Blue point extractor set that has a selection of guide tubes an drills for each easy out size. A good set of left handed drill bits are the thing to use here, they are a must in every mechanics box.
A good rule to follow is if you live in the rust belt and the bolt broke because its rotten forget the easy outs altogether and go for the drill. Broken easy outs of any type and taps can be the PITA no one needs.
Like the liner tube (?) idea (I'd guess "steel line" is a typo), which I havn't tried. Likewise left-hand bits, though they might be hard to find here.
I suppose as a non-pro subject to some kack-handedness, you could use guide tubes on emergent studs as well. Big one to fit over the stud, smaller concentric ones on top of the stud.
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Yes steel tube but I have used a piece of 5/16 steel fuel line in a Hole to start a bit that just fits inside it for nice center.
You can get a piece of round stock at any Home Depot or hardware store the O.D. you need, cut a piece off and drill a small hole though it with a drill press then use this to start the pilot hole.
I made a small jig for Ford 5.4 exhaust manifold studs for a few bucks that worked slick as anything.
You can get a piece of round stock at any Home Depot or hardware store the O.D. you need, cut a piece off and drill a small hole though it with a drill press then use this to start the pilot hole.
I made a small jig for Ford 5.4 exhaust manifold studs for a few bucks that worked slick as anything.
Did you buy them? Its a good price for M42 left hand.
Sure, for that money you cant go wrong, I will get some too. It doesn't hurt to have extra ones as you cant exactly go to HD and buy LH bits. Thanks for posting that.
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