2011 Honda Civic: ABS question

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I'll try to make this as brief as possible for my sons's 2011 1.8L civic:

1. Passenger front wheel bearing replaced by mechanic we've used for years (never occurred to me this would be warranty item)
2. He called when he arrived at work to tell me car was still making front end noise
3. Sounded to me like it could have been the transaxle.
4. Occurred to me now that this might be covered by warranty so he called and set up appt at dealer
5. Dealer says the noise is because the axel nut was spinning off... Wasn't installed properly by mechanic (shocking for the dealer to pass the buck)
6. Dealer now has a reason to pass on warranty work
7. $120 diagnostic fee which can be waived if dealer replaces front brake pads ($299) and flushes brake fluid ($120)
8. My son tells them do the brake fluid only... (So it's a wash... At least he gets something for the $120)
9. We replaced pads this morning and he goes for a spin... Tells me it's still making noise
10. We both drive and I notice that:
a: ABS light is on
b: at times, when lightly applying brakes, I felt, through the brake pedal, what I would describe as the ABS engaging.
11. The ABS light simply turned off after a while
12. While driving slowly 10 mph straight and light braking, I felt the abs 1 time
13. While turning right and traveling slow (10mph), I felt the ABS engage
14. While slowing on approach to a red light, less than 15 mph, I felt the ABS engage

I'm calling this ABS engagement as that how I recall it feels on icy roads...

Any thoughts?
 
How much did the mechanic charge for the repair? How much was the estimate from the dealer to fix the noise?
 
Can you tell the difference between ABS and warped rotors? If the light is on, chances are pretty good the ABS is actually disabled.

Someone could have nicked a wire in the vicinity doing the work. I had this happen on my olds silhouette... was just pulling out of the hub and barely making contact.
 
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
My bet is mechanic broke the end of the ABS sensor while replacing the bearing
Right on Dan. That is exactly what happened.
 
Satin.... Wheel bearing was $350 from mechanic

Dealer wanted $120 diagnostic fee OR $299 front pad replacement and $100+ for brake fluid flush
 
Eljefino.. Not 100% certain but pretty sure I would be able to tell the difference. Besides, rotors were replaced last year at some point
 
Dan/Hasteen...

Lite WAS on, but no longer. I get that abs feel sporadically, seemingly at slower speeds and regardless of straight driving or turning

If the sensor were broken, would the light remain on or just engage intermittently as is the case now?
 
Was mechanic using coper grease when reasembling everything back together?

ABS sensors are sensitive on coper particles in that grease...
 
Or another reason could be broken ABS wheel...

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Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Was mechanic using coper grease when reasembling everything back together?

ABS sensors are sensitive on coper particles in that grease...


I'm not sure why the sensors would care about copper. ?
 
Status update!

Done brake job on my fathers car......new front rotors + pads (both from ATE)

After that ABS was constantly ON
frown.gif


While I was changing rotors.....I sand off all the rust around hubs and knuckle etc.....and that rusty dust went on ABS sensors and somewhat caused "false readings"

So when you are doing brake job....always look that sensors will be clean after that!!!

PLUS: there are 2 types of ABS sensors.....A) those wich are bolted on the knuckle (MY case) and B) those wich are just "put in" the knuckle ( some VW passat models)

In B case......IF you are hammering old rotors off the hub.....you are slightly "off setting/moving" ABS sensors evry time you hammer old rotor....

And in many cases ABS is malfunctioning after that because sensors are "offset"

The cure ( for B type sensors) is that if ABS is malfuncioning.....that you press in (carefully!!!) ABS sensor all the way IN the knuckle....and then pull it slightly out (cca 1mm -dunno how many inches that is
smile.gif
)

If sensor is too close to the ABS wheel...it will be constantly ON...if to far away...ABS will not work!
 
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