Marvel Mystery Oil, in a 2 stroke..

[beanoil]

Originally Posted By: Oneshot660

Thnx, I deleted oil injection as I heard some bad stories about them. Mixing 32:1 with bel ray now.

Being new to 2T, you may not know that deleting the pump and premixing that you really should rejet. You are displacing some of the fuel that went through the carb with oil, so you are running a little lean. Go up one or two jet sizes on the main. As well,(and I haven't looked into it) some oil pumps had split lines with one that branched off to feed the bearings at the end of the crank. If yours only had one line to the carb/intake area, go on with premixing. If there was a feed for the crank bearings, the oil injection needs to be working as intended. There is a wealth of info out there. Google Graham Bell "Two Stroke Tuning". The Jenning Two Stroke book will come up on the same search.
On your original question, there is no real advantage with MMO in a 2T that is premixed. In an oil injected system, there is a small, insignificant, benefit of MMO keeping the carb slide wet and lubricated with todays dry fuels.

 

[ironman_gq]

Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: Oneshot660
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.


Maybe its CVT produce that "thick" sound at idle....just CVT parts rattling


6spd full manual wet clutch, no noise from them. You'll feel a notchiness if the basket gets trashed but you won't hear it.

 

[Pontual]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
The blaster uses a motorcycle style engine with clutch and left foot shifter, manual transmission.

Yamaha DT180 from the 80's...

 

[ironman_gq]

Originally Posted By: Pontual
Originally Posted By: Cujet
The blaster uses a motorcycle style engine with clutch and left foot shifter, manual transmission.

Yamaha DT180 from the 80's...


It's extremely similar to the DT200 liquid cooled motors, shares the same piston, rod, crank. The engine cases are nearly identical right down to the water pump housing on the blaster motor. For a while there were a lot of swaps done and a lot of discussion on the differences, aside from gearing and charging systems and the power valve wiring it's an easy swap to put a DT200 top end on the motor and convert it to a power valved water cooled engine with at least double the horsepower.

 

[sw99]

Run a oz in my chainsaw and it always runs like a top. What's some extra oil in the mix hurt? Not sure if it does anything but I sleep ok...

 

[Pontual]

Yes, I had them both, and the DT 200R lc was a beast compared to the 180 ac. Maybe the YPVS would be favored with a little MMO on the gas. That valve get dirty to the point of rupture of its command cables, pretty quick. But how could them get more than 10% displacement difference with the same piston and cranck, is out of my knowledge. And I believe mine DT200 didnt had a water pump. The coolant circulation was driven by thermal difference between radiator and the rest of the engine.

 

[sw99]

I use MMO in my chainsaw and weedeater all the time. Every fill up I add an ounce or so.

 

[UltrafanUK]

Then why not post in the oil additives section ??

You can add an ounce of many types of oil to a lawnmower or chainsaw engine without apparent ill effect. It does not mean it's a good idea though.

 

[Rob_Roy]

A quality premix oil is all you need, some of them even include a fuel stabilizer. For seldom used power equipment non-ethanol gas is preferred.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: Oneshot660
Well I did a compression test just middle of last week and it showed around 125 psi, I looked it up and from what I found that is still pretty good. Maybe I am just to paranoid. And it is normal.


It's my guess it's 100% normal, and yes, that's normal compression for a blaster.

If you are really concerned, post a you tube video of the noise and I'll listen.
It's not noise it's 2 stroke motor music.

 

[Geauxtiger]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
There are times where a fuel lubricity additive is required on gasoline and diesel engines. Testing shows that MMO is a very poor lubricity additive in either fuel. In fact, some tests show negative results with MMO. HFRR (high frequency reciprocating rig) testing has demonstrated that MMO makes lubricity worse!

Two stroke oil, on the other hand, is an excellent lubricity additive. A 200 to 1 mix in a fuel with an HFRR of 650 will reduce the number to just over 470, a nice improvement. (lower is better)

Here is a quote from the test:

17)Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.



Looks like the OP's conversation has concluded, so hopefully it is OK if I take this thread off on a bit of a tangent. I have heard about the study that Cujet quotes above many times (but I have not seen the actual study itself). My inquiring mind wants to know....is there a known mechanism at work here that causes the reduction in lubricity? What is going on that the addition of an 'oil' (MMO), albeit a very light oil, to act counter intuitively (to this layman at least) to actually reduce lubricity? Can someone teach my 3 remaining brain cells something new?

 

[Pontual]

Yes, specially with the very low sulphur of nowadays fuels, any light oil would raise lubricity. Maybe that study was made with a 1800ppm of S Diesel, intead of todays 10-50ppm.