Educate Me on Different Oil Drain Plug Washers

[CrackyWainwright]

I've had trouble this weekend getting the drain plug on our 2012 KIA Sportage to stop leaking after I changed the oil. My first step was to try a different plug washer/gasket. The parts store sold me not one new washer, but a variety pack in the size I need.

Could some of you help me to understand the benefit of each of the washer materials in this variety pack? Normally KIA vehicles use the standard silver aluminum washer (like the middle one pictured), but now I'm kind of leery after the leakage.

I'm especially interested to know if those nylon/plastic washers will really hold up and seal off. Do you use less torque on that softer material?

 

[eljefino]

I like the fiber ones Toyota uses. I got a 50 pack of generic ones off ebay for a few bucks. They feel really good going in, I get about 180 degrees of turn in at the prescribed torque after I feel it start touching. Probably anywhere between 90 and 180 degrees would seal well. You need a decent built-in washer under your drain bolt head to use them. For example my mercedes uses a copper washer and the bolt head isn't nearly as big, and wouldn't put enough pressure over enough area on a fiber washer. But the copper ones are great for the app they're designed for.

The nylon ones are almost as good. You can feel the bolt head cutting into them for that perfect seal while you torque.

The problem with aluminum ones is quick lubes don't replace them and just overtorque the drain plug, figuring it'll be someone else's problem next time. This kinda shreds/ distorts the gasket.

 

[Warstud]

Never had a leak in the 20+ years of changing oil. Only time I replaced one is when Autozone gave me one for free when I bought some oil.

 

[askani79705]

Get a Fumoto valve and never worry about a washer again

 

[mjoekingz28]

The coppers I tried seemed too hard.

The clear nylons used would cinch down ok. But when the time arrived to change the oil, they turned into a black rubber and seemed to rewuire almost no torque to remove.......as if they shrunk.......this happened over and over.....

IIRC, the dual ones were best. The rubber inner with a hard outer shell.


But I agree, if it doesn't leak yet......dont mess around. Even if the manual calls for a new one every change, it would probably be best to just wipe the plug and the drain hole and go on. IIRC, my oil pan was usually wet. So all of the aftermarket washer/o-rings I tried probably kept oil from dripping on the carport- but not perfect enough to keep the oilpan dry.

 

[Oro_O]

+1 for Toyota fiber/composite washers.

Plastic ones are not durable enough for engine applications.

Al and Cu ones can work, but a leak or failure is more likely. I lost a transmission last summer after a new copper washer was scored being torqued and then leaked. Unlikely an engine could fail so spectacularly for the same cause, but it would not have happened with a composite washer and I'd not have had to do a full transmission rebuild.

 

[andyd]

The copper washer is my favorite. A good one can be annealed when it gets work hardened. and used forever.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Kia's and Hyundai's use a thin aluminum crush washer that is best used only once. Many people reuse a crush washer, but I don't think it's worth 89 cents to do so. Some washers are interchangeable between auto brands. My two Troopers, three Acuras and my Honda all used the same flat washer. Many Nissans and Subarus use the same copper crush washer.

But when you use a quick lube place, the tech not using a washer is one of the risks you take, even if you provide one.

 

[Yup]

I changed my washer 3 times. Then the last one got wedged onto the drain plug and I couldn't slip it off over the threads. I have another drain plug and washers handy, for some reason I thought it would be good to buy one, but I've used the same drain plug and washer stuck on it for about 140K miles and I've never had a leak. Just don't torque it crazy tight so I strip the threads. I'm not too worried.

 

[CarbonSteel]

My Gold Plug magnetic drain plugs came with an aluminium washer on one and a copper on the other. Although I tightened them properly and retightened some days later, they still dripped occasionally so I switched to a metal washer with integral rubber o-ring (like the one on the far right in your photo). Not one drip and it did not require so much torque--which eliminated my fear of stripping the threads.

 

[bubbatime]

If your car takes the aluminum crush washers, they are one time use only. They will leak if you dont replace them. I bought a 50 pack of Honda crush washers off eBay for about $4 five years ago and I still have plenty of them left. I pride myself in doing the job right, so I replace the washer every time. You can feel the aluminum crush as your torque them down. It feels like the threads in the oil pan are stripping, but they are not. It is just crushing and creating a perfect seal.

Here you go:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-10-OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-CRUSH-WASHER-GASKETS-FOR-HYUNDAI-AND-KIA-/121664631744?hash=item1c53c6f3c0:g:XOIAAOSwBLlVaQwt&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-10-21513-23001-GENUINE-HYUNDAI-OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-CRUSH-WASHER-GASKETS-OEM-/231520392144?fits=Make%3AHyundai&hash=item35e7b0d3d0:g:OCcAAOSwBahVGufJ&vxp=mtr

 

[user52165]

"Get a Fumoto valve and never worry about a washer again"

+1


Hyundai filter comes with aluminum washer. One time use - 25 -30 ft.lbs.

I have about 30 washers since I installed a Fumoto valve and buy Hyundai filters in bulk.

Want some?

 

[Trav]

From those shown if I had my choice it would be in this order..
Steel/rubber
Aluminum
Copper
Nylon

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Trav
From those shown if I had my choice it would be in this order..
Steel/rubber
Aluminum
Copper
Nylon


From those shown if I had a choice, it would be in this order:

OEM style aluminum crush washer
OEM style aluminum crush washer
OEM style aluminum crush washer
OEM style aluminum crush washer
OEM style aluminum crush washer
OEM style aluminum crush washer

and so on and so forth. Don't bother with parts store variety packs.

 

[SHOZ]

Seems to me all the Fords I've had over the years had a plastic washer of some sort. Never did ever change them out as they seemed to be part of the plug.

 

[Eddie]

There is no crush washer shown in the sample above. My Mazda came with an Aluminum flat washer and a recommended torque value. I clean the mating surfaces, check the new OEM washer and torque it to snug it up. Never a leak. Ed

 

[panthermike]

I would sometimes have issues with my MIL's '13 Kia Optima with a slight leak from the plug. This was with a new OEM washer each oil change. Other times it wouldn't leak and I'm not sure why.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I've always used either copper or aluminum drain plug washers and torque to the factory spec, and have never had a leak. Plus, when using a copper or aluminum washer, I've reused them over and over and never had a problem.

 

[SIXSPEED]

To prevent leaks, use a new OEM washer each time and torque the drain plug to spec. Washers are cheap when purchased in quantity.

 

[Merkava_4]

According to RockAuto, the OE gasket is a copper one made by AUTO 7 Part# 3070117

If the OE is copper and it's not sealing, I'd try the nylon gasket.