2011 Jetta TDI -Mobil1 ESP - Time to try new oil?

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Here's the report from the last oil change on my 2011 Jetta TDI back in April of 2015. I'm getting ready to change the oil again but before I get the oil I wanted to see if any of you have any feedback on the report. I only have about 7,000 miles on the oil (no road trips last year). I've been using the Mobil 1 ESP since my first post-purchase oil change. As you can see, the Iron #'s seem a little high and I don't know if that's oil related or not. The other numbers seem OK.

My plan is to keep this car for another 5 years at least (unless they offer some crazy $$ for the buyback) so I want to make sure everything is good.

Any feedback/insight most appreciated!

26008059544_8af86e9da4_b.jpg
 
The oil is too thin for your application. VW Diesel owners almost universally find that Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck is a more somewhat viscous oil that provides better protection, and better UOA results for VW diesel engines. Without a major increase in ZDDP content.

ESP = 65, 12, 3.5 (viscosity at 40 degrees, 100 degrees, 150 degrees)
TDT = 98, 14.5, 3.8
 
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I don't think this is an approved oil / viscosity.

Check your owners manual, and read the approvals for the oil you plan to use.

When I went to mechanics a kid in class had a Passat and he said that if you don't use the correct oil you get horrendous valvetrain wear.
 
If your Iron keeps going up its not good.
Can you get an oil pressure reading?
Oil Pump?
Try the Dealer 507 if it still trends up I would look at something else in the engine.

Whats the universal average Mileage? email Blackstone and see.
Did you change where you fuel?
Did your driving habits change?
 
I reduced my interval to 7,500 miles on my Jetta TDI for this exact reason.

I have used many different brands of 507.00 in my CR TDI and nothing made a difference. I think it's just the nature of this beast.

I presently use Pentosin PentoSuper Performance III.
 
Originally Posted By: FowVay
I have used many different brands of 507.00 in my CR TDI and nothing made a difference. I think it's just the nature of this beast.


Cujet was on-point here.

No matter how cool the name is, or exotic the brand, unless you deviate from a 507.00 product, your results aren't going to change.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
The oil is too thin for your application. VW Diesel owners almost universally find that Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck is a more somewhat viscous oil that provides better protection, and better UOA results for VW diesel engines. Without a major increase in ZDDP content.

ESP = 65, 12, 3.5 (viscosity at 40 degrees, 100 degrees, 150 degrees)
TDT = 98, 14.5, 3.8



I've been hesitant to use non-507 oil but the car is out of powertrain warranty period at this point so I guess I could if needed.

Originally Posted By: Koz1
If your Iron keeps going up its not good.
Can you get an oil pressure reading?
Oil Pump?
Try the Dealer 507 if it still trends up I would look at something else in the engine.

Whats the universal average Mileage? email Blackstone and see.
Did you change where you fuel?
Did your driving habits change?


I haven't had any oil pump/pressure issues but I do have a VCDS I could hook up and check things out. Good point on emailing Blackstone. I will do that. At least then I will be able to do a better apples-to-apples comparison.

Originally Posted By: FowVay
I reduced my interval to 7,500 miles on my Jetta TDI for this exact reason.

I have used many different brands of 507.00 in my CR TDI and nothing made a difference. I think it's just the nature of this beast.

I presently use Pentosin PentoSuper Performance III.


My change interval will be right at 7k miles so that may be a good comparison. What are you getting for Iron with the 7-8k interval?
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
I don't think this is an approved oil / viscosity.

Check your owners manual, and read the approvals for the oil you plan to use.

When I went to mechanics a kid in class had a Passat and he said that if you don't use the correct oil you get horrendous valvetrain wear.


Exactly correct, it's not an "approved" oil, it's a far more robust oil, with higher viscosity and more ZDDP, designed by Mobil to protect hard working turbocharged diesels. VW has an ongoing history of insufficient oil specifications, leading to wear related issues. The UOA is talking to him, rather loudly.

Clearly, Audi and VW have, for years now, specified weak oils, low on viscosity and ZDDP, that result in rapid camshaft wear (and in the case of gas engines, fuel pump wear) .

Use of the VW required oil:

igHE7.jpg
 
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If those parts are from a PD engine then we're comparing apples to oranges with the CR engine.

The 507.00 specification is in place to prevent premature poisoning of the exhaust filters. The oil is a very good oil but the weak additive package makes it impractical for the full drain interval.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: Falken
I don't think this is an approved oil / viscosity.

Check your owners manual, and read the approvals for the oil you plan to use.

When I went to mechanics a kid in class had a Passat and he said that if you don't use the correct oil you get horrendous valvetrain wear.


Exactly correct, it's not an "approved" oil, it's a far more robust oil, with higher viscosity and more ZDDP, designed by Mobil to protect hard working turbocharged diesels. VW has an ongoing history of insufficient oil specifications, leading to wear related issues. The UOA is talking to him, rather loudly.

Clearly, Audi and VW have, for years now, specified weak oils, low on viscosity and ZDDP, that result in rapid camshaft wear (and in the case of gas engines, fuel pump wear) .

Use of the VW required oil:



Sorry buddy, but you're off base here. Those are parts from a Pumpe Duse engine.

If you run a full SAPS diesel oil in the OP's engine, he WILL have to deal with a full DPF.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
If you run a full SAPS diesel oil in the OP's engine, he WILL have to deal with a full DPF.


Please explain to us how a common 5w-40 available on the shelf of your local retailer @

SA: P: S:
...is going to cause an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
If you run a full SAPS diesel oil in the OP's engine, he WILL have to deal with a full DPF.


Please explain to us how a common 5w-40 available on the shelf of your local retailer @

SA: P: S:
...is going to cause an issue.


It won't cause an issue. Going from 800PPM to 1000PPM ZDDP is an increase in the right direction for wear.

My example above was a PD engine, one that was using VW's required oil. Hence my "history" comment.
 
Very interesting, as it's one of the worst UOA results I've seen in ages.
The issue is cylinder wear (Al and Fe), so the SAE group is OK and I presume the oil is listed for the correct API or Acea groups by Mobil in their oil finder (You need the engine type).

So that leaves the OCI and right boot issues as the probable cause. I would cut the OCI to 5000 miles, use the oil filter twice (Don't try and drain a spin on) to see if the Iron figure improves.
If that fails, reduce the use of the right boot rate of change when the engine is cold, change to Penn Plat or Shell Ultra 0w30 and think about using half a can of brown cream tea (Liqui Moly Ceratec) every oil change.
One of those 3 should get the job done!

PS: I would not use this oil as a cleaner oil, cos the Calcium (Detergent/Dispersant/Antirust) figure is real low and the alternative, Mg is effectively zero ppm.
Penn Plat or Shell Ultra 0w30 is a far better cleaner for the rings in particular and dirty rings cause the Al figure to increase.
Note: I don't like this particular M1 oil, cos it seems to contain Potassium which is a marker for a HG leak, so I suppose there is an outside chance some dipstick put coolant in the oil. Not sure if there is a coolant that contains just Potassium and not Sodium.
 
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One known issue with these engines, and it's not common at all, is the oil pump hexagonal drive shaft. This shaft is known to wear which will present steel/iron from both the shaft and driven gear.

As the wear continues the ultimate result will be no oil pressure. this is something for the OP to consider and to keep an eye on.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Very interesting, as it's one of the worst UOA results I've seen in ages.
The issue is cylinder wear (Al and Fe), so the SAE group is OK and I presume the oil is listed for the correct API or Acea groups by Mobil in their oil finder (You need the engine type).

So that leaves the OCI and right boot issues as the probable cause. I would cut the OCI to 5000 miles, use the oil filter twice (Don't try and drain a spin on) to see if the Iron figure improves.
If that fails, reduce the use of the right boot rate of change when the engine is cold, change to Penn Plat or Shell Ultra 0w30 and think about using half a can of brown cream tea (Liqui Moly Ceratec) every oil change.
One of those 3 should get the job done!

PS: I would not use this oil as a cleaner oil, cos the Calcium (Detergent/Dispersant/Antirust) figure is real low and the alternative, Mg is effectively zero ppm.
Penn Plat or Shell Ultra 0w30 is a far better cleaner for the rings in particular and dirty rings cause the Al figure to increase.
Note: I don't like this particular M1 oil, cos it seems to contain Potassium which is a marker for a HG leak, so I suppose there is an outside chance some dipstick put coolant in the oil. Not sure if there is a coolant that contains just Potassium and not Sodium.


Worst UOA you've seen in ages? I guess I better sell the car (or take VW's diesel scandal buyback) as soon as possible? Hopefully you're not correct. As for coolant in the oil, I've changed the oil myself since purchase so I don't think that's it but the HG leak could be an issue. I guess I could have that checked out.

Originally Posted By: FowVay
One known issue with these engines, and it's not common at all, is the oil pump hexagonal drive shaft. This shaft is known to wear which will present steel/iron from both the shaft and driven gear.

As the wear continues the ultimate result will be no oil pressure. this is something for the OP to consider and to keep an eye on.


I will keep an eye on it. Is there any way to check short of pulling the pump?
 
There is something wrong with that engine. It's one of the worst UOAs I have seen. The other UOAs I have seen that lookS like this one has had inherent driveline engine issues. Anytime iron reaches close to or passes 100 ppm has always shown some issue with the engine even in a newer engine breaking in
 
Originally Posted By: deven
There is something wrong with that engine. It's one of the worst UOAs I have seen. The other UOAs I have seen that lookS like this one has had inherent driveline engine issues. Anytime iron reaches close to or passes 100 ppm has always shown some issue with the engine even in a newer engine breaking in


OK, now you guys have got me worried...seriously. The car is right at 5 years old and hasn't had any problems (at least that I can tell). I have 6 days left on the 5yr/60,000 mile powertrain warranty but I don't think VW would do anything based on no symptoms other than a UOA. What do you suggest I do at his point? Should I shorten the interval and keep my fingers crossed or should I take whatever buyout is offered by VW as part of the emissions scandal thing and consider a different car?
 
Looking at the wear rate, I would let go ...

Edit: Otherwise shorten the OCI and select xxW40 instead of xxW30.
 
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