Is usi synthetic oil OK to break in an engine ok?

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I just rebuilt the engine in my Stratus. Since synthetic is the factory fill In new cars, it must be OK. Right? Should I use standard synthetic, conventional, or Amsoil break in oil? Price is not a concern.
 
I'd use whatever grade oil is called for. Doesn't matter for the first 1000 miles or so.

If it's a 2.7 sludger, use full synthetic after 1000 miles or so on the rebuild. That should help keep sludge at bay for longer.
 
I don't think that family of engines is going to care. But it's port injected and uses a timing belt, so it's oiling requirements aren't going to be too crazy.
 
Originally Posted By: Avery4
I just rebuilt the engine in my Stratus. Since synthetic is the factory fill In new cars, it must be OK. Right? Should I use standard synthetic, conventional, or Amsoil break in oil? Price is not a concern.


pics or i'm not believing.

15.gif
 
I would use Amsoil break in oil; but I use Amsoil regularly...Do you have any way of knowing what the factory fill was? Here is an excerpt from the Amsoil site regarding their break in oil:

The primary goal during engine break-in is to seat the rings against the cylinder wall. Properly seated rings increase compression, resulting in maximum horsepower; they reduce oil consumption and prevent hot combustion gases from entering the crankcase. To achieve this, however, the oil must allow the correct level of “controlled wear” to occur between the cylinder wall/ring interface while maintaining wear protection on other critical engine parts. Insufficient break-in leaves behind peaks on the cylinder wall that prevent the rings from seating. The deeper valleys, meanwhile, allow excess oil to collect and burn during combustion, increasing oil consumption. Too much wear results in cylinder glazing due to peaks “rolling over” into the valleys and preventing oil from collecting and adequately lubricating the cylinder wall.

AMSOIL Break-In Oil’s friction-modifier-free formula allows the sharp peaks on newly honed cylinder walls (fig. 1) to partially flatten. The result produces more surface area for rings to seat against, allowing formation of a dynamic seal that increases compression, horsepower and torque (fig. 2).

Furthermore, the main objective in initial oil changes on a new vehicle is to facilitate the removal of harmful manufacturing and break-in debris for those interested in long engine life.

Mr. Jim Fitch, founder of Noria Corp. has authored a book "How to select an Oil and Filter for your Car or Truck" The above statement is from page 43. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=How+to+select+an+oil+and+filter+for+your+car+or+truck

Table 13 on this same page Mr. Fitch outlines his RECOMMENDATIONS for the first few oil changes: 1st oil change within 100 miles of taking possession of the vehicle; 2nd oil change 1500 miles after 1st change, 3rd oil change 3K miles after 2nd, 4th and beyond at normal intervals. Go synthetic at 4th change.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Avery4
I just rebuilt the engine in my Stratus. Since synthetic is the factory fill In new cars, it must be OK. Right? Should I use standard synthetic, conventional, or Amsoil break in oil? Price is not a concern.


pics or i'm not believing.

15.gif

Sure. I will jump up right this second and pull the engine back out and re rebuild it so you believe me. Just for you. I care that you believe me that much.
 
I'm not a big believer in break in periods. Why did it need to be rebuild in the first place? And what could have prevented that?
 
I can't believe you rebuilt that engine, better start saving for the transmission which probably will go soon without warning as they usually do.

The oil choice won't matter, I'd use conventional since the first change will want to be short. What exactly was rebuilt in the engine, just the top end?
 
Won't hurt a thing to start with any quality oil, dino or synthetic.

In your place, for me it would be Amsoil break in oil for the first 1000 miles, then change to your choice of Amsoil and never look back.
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
I'm not a big believer in break in periods. Why did it need to be rebuild in the first place? And what could have prevented that?
It needed a rebuild because a new radiator hose blew and I didn't know it. I watch the temp and it was normal. I did not know that anything was wrong until it was knocking and losing power with the oil pressure light on. At that point it was too late. It died as I pulled off the road. Sad day. As for prevention, I really can't think of a way I could have prevented this. I have a thread about this if you want more details.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I can't believe you rebuilt that engine, better start saving for the transmission which probably will go soon without warning as they usually do.

The oil choice won't matter, I'd use conventional since the first change will want to be short. What exactly was rebuilt in the engine, just the top end? Rings, bearings, gaskets and oil pump. A machine shop did the head. I have a friend that will rebuild the transmission if It goes out.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I can't believe you rebuilt that engine, better start saving for the transmission which probably will go soon without warning as they usually do.

The oil choice won't matter, I'd use conventional since the first change will want to be short. What exactly was rebuilt in the engine, just the top end?

I agree. Rebuilt engine needs to have short OCI for the first one, therefore conventional is a better choice.
 
Originally Posted By: Avery4
I just rebuilt the engine in my Stratus. Since synthetic is the factory fill In new cars, it must be OK. Right?


You rebuilt it? Or did you have it rebuilt?

If you did the "rebuild" yourself then you should be knowledgeable enough to make the call on what oil you want to use for the initial fill.

If you had the rebuild done by someone then they should have ability to answer that question based upon their experience with the parts and quality of workmanship. Same with a crate engine-your best bet is to contact the builder and see what they recommend.

And I'm sure you understand that there can be a tremendous difference in quality between an engine that is originally installed in the car from the manufacturer, and something "some guy" does in his garage over a weekend. Just because it's "OK" for a newly manufactured vehicle doesn't mean that it's "OK" for a shadetree rebuild.
 
I imagine syn would be ok, its just expensive. Especially if you rebuilt it, there will be stuff in the oil from assembly, few garages are surgically clean. If you used any moly assembly paste on timing chain guides, this can plug the filter, so a filter oil change is a good idea after a 30 minute initial run.

Syn is just a waste of money for initial startup, and offers no advantage for the 30 minute first run.

Make sure you spin the engine over without the plugs to prime the oil system.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
Congratulations on being the first person to ever bother to rebuild an engine on a Stratus!

I would just use PYB to break it in.


you are assuming hes not just making up a fantasy story as he has done frequently in the past.
 
My brother rebuilt an Intrepid motor after Apu's Quickie oil left the filter loose. he was given the car with the engine toasted. Some people see the value in repairing a paid for car in otherwise sound condition. Equally, some people just make stuff up.
 
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