Does anyone have experience with this oil? I'm looking at it for my Buick. It's API SL/CF, along with some older ACEA specs. It's treated with the company's own MoS2 anti friction product, and it's marketed as a high performance oil. I'm very interested in it, and have contacted the company for dealer information. If anyone has any feedback, it's much appreciated.
Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti Friction 20W-50
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ACEA specs are A3/B4 btw.
Originally Posted By: Red91
Does anyone have experience with this oil? I'm looking at it for my Buick. It's API SL/CF, along with some older ACEA specs. It's treated with the company's own MoS2 anti friction product, and it's marketed as a high performance oil. I'm very interested in it, and have contacted the company for dealer information. If anyone has any feedback, it's much appreciated.
Does your Buick owners manual list 20w50 as OK ??
The LM MOS2 special is normally sold as MOS LEICHTLAUF 10w40 in the EU. It might be marketed as a high performance oil in the USA, but I would use the real thing, SYNTHOIL HIGH TECH 5w40 (A3/B4), or even SYNTHOIL RACE TECH GT1 10w60 (SL/CF).
Never used the 10w60 is it is out of spec from my Twingo 1.2 (16v) or Migraine TDI, but the UOA results for the more common 5w40 were slightly better than those for Ultra 5w40 and far better than Edge 5w40. Not tested Mobil 0 or 5w40 yet, as it's stupidly expensive in comparison with Ultra in the EU.
Does anyone have experience with this oil? I'm looking at it for my Buick. It's API SL/CF, along with some older ACEA specs. It's treated with the company's own MoS2 anti friction product, and it's marketed as a high performance oil. I'm very interested in it, and have contacted the company for dealer information. If anyone has any feedback, it's much appreciated.
Does your Buick owners manual list 20w50 as OK ??
The LM MOS2 special is normally sold as MOS LEICHTLAUF 10w40 in the EU. It might be marketed as a high performance oil in the USA, but I would use the real thing, SYNTHOIL HIGH TECH 5w40 (A3/B4), or even SYNTHOIL RACE TECH GT1 10w60 (SL/CF).
Never used the 10w60 is it is out of spec from my Twingo 1.2 (16v) or Migraine TDI, but the UOA results for the more common 5w40 were slightly better than those for Ultra 5w40 and far better than Edge 5w40. Not tested Mobil 0 or 5w40 yet, as it's stupidly expensive in comparison with Ultra in the EU.
High performance may not be the correct terminology, but the website describes it as have very good anti wear properties and being capable of long drain intervals under extreme conditions, which I see as beneficial for older cars and cars that are raced. My Buick specs 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I'm not concerned with that, as that isn't pertinent to my situation. I like thick oil.
Originally Posted By: Red91
High performance may not be the correct terminology, but the website describes it as have very good anti wear properties and being capable of long drain intervals under extreme conditions, which I see as beneficial for older cars and cars that are raced. My Buick specs 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I'm not concerned with that, as that isn't pertinent to my situation. I like thick oil.
Most petrol engines are design spec for a 30 grade in terms of engine life and if you race a car I sure would not use anything thicker.
Nothing beats a good slug of Moly (Mo) in friction terms, so you are correct IF the oil does not have a group 4 (Synthoil) base stock the MOS oil is better.
If you need an oil for extended drain intervals (More than the max OCI), LM make some Synthoil Longtime plus 0w30 and if you added a can of their Moly additive, that would probably give you a good race oil.
High performance may not be the correct terminology, but the website describes it as have very good anti wear properties and being capable of long drain intervals under extreme conditions, which I see as beneficial for older cars and cars that are raced. My Buick specs 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I'm not concerned with that, as that isn't pertinent to my situation. I like thick oil.
Most petrol engines are design spec for a 30 grade in terms of engine life and if you race a car I sure would not use anything thicker.
Nothing beats a good slug of Moly (Mo) in friction terms, so you are correct IF the oil does not have a group 4 (Synthoil) base stock the MOS oil is better.
If you need an oil for extended drain intervals (More than the max OCI), LM make some Synthoil Longtime plus 0w30 and if you added a can of their Moly additive, that would probably give you a good race oil.
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Well see I don't race it, it's just an old car that I want to keep running for a long time, and I'm really interested in the anti wear properties. Liqui Moly isn't very popular in the US, compared to SOPUS, XOM, etc., so info on it is limited. I am safe to run 20W-50 in my climate. I work with this car; it's my main means of transportation, and I haul light loads with it.
I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 in it
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 in it
Redline would make more sense as the OP is looking for a low friction race oil and M1 0w40 (A3/B4) is more of a cleaner oil, although using half a can of Moly additive would help minimize wear during a race and help increase the power a fraction. Ceratec would reduce the wear more, but not the friction as Boron Nitride (Hexagonal ceramic form) has a higher coefficient of friction than MOS2. It does contain some Moly, but not enough to make a big difference (About 200 ppm increase in 5 liters of oil), as you would want to be up around 500 ppm plus.
I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 in it
Redline would make more sense as the OP is looking for a low friction race oil and M1 0w40 (A3/B4) is more of a cleaner oil, although using half a can of Moly additive would help minimize wear during a race and help increase the power a fraction. Ceratec would reduce the wear more, but not the friction as Boron Nitride (Hexagonal ceramic form) has a higher coefficient of friction than MOS2. It does contain some Moly, but not enough to make a big difference (About 200 ppm increase in 5 liters of oil), as you would want to be up around 500 ppm plus.
A 1992 Buick is NOT an old car!
Originally Posted By: Red91
High performance may not be the correct terminology, but the website describes it as have very good anti wear properties and being capable of long drain intervals under extreme conditions, which I see as beneficial for older cars and cars that are raced. My Buick specs 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I'm not concerned with that, as that isn't pertinent to my situation. I like thick oil.
Go for this LM MoS2 20W50 ....it suits your purpose well.
Moly offers friction reduction, and 20W50 offers higher film thickness.
High performance may not be the correct terminology, but the website describes it as have very good anti wear properties and being capable of long drain intervals under extreme conditions, which I see as beneficial for older cars and cars that are raced. My Buick specs 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I'm not concerned with that, as that isn't pertinent to my situation. I like thick oil.
Go for this LM MoS2 20W50 ....it suits your purpose well.
Moly offers friction reduction, and 20W50 offers higher film thickness.
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Most petrol engines are design spec for a 30 grade in terms of engine life and if you race a car I sure would not use anything thicker.
Care to further elaborate on this ?
AHH! Another troller looking to start a thin oil & short OCI, vs, the ultra green thick oil & long OCI fight again.
Just Google design specs for older petrol engines, most will say x/30 and a few will say x/40. Most diesels are design spec for x/40.
Now think fuel economy is the new CAFE game in the US and Japan, so how to you improve fuel economy, answer hybrids (Rather expensive) or stop start engines. BUT every last MPG counts, so thinnest oil that will not result in too many in warranty failures and fit special rings to try and reduce the oil burning issue.
Luckily the 65/75 mph speed limits in the US mean that x/20 oils and thinner box oils are just about OK IF you keep to a shortish OCI.
The 3000 mile OCI lobby groups just love a good 5w20 and are pushing for 0w16 next. Not all manufacturers play the CAFE game with thin oils, some stay well clear.
In the long term I think most petrol engines will finnish up using a straight 20 in summer and a 0/16 in winter.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Most petrol engines are design spec for a 30 grade in terms of engine life and if you race a car I sure would not use anything thicker.
Care to further elaborate on this ?
AHH! Another troller looking to start a thin oil & short OCI, vs, the ultra green thick oil & long OCI fight again.
Just Google design specs for older petrol engines, most will say x/30 and a few will say x/40. Most diesels are design spec for x/40.
Now think fuel economy is the new CAFE game in the US and Japan, so how to you improve fuel economy, answer hybrids (Rather expensive) or stop start engines. BUT every last MPG counts, so thinnest oil that will not result in too many in warranty failures and fit special rings to try and reduce the oil burning issue.
Luckily the 65/75 mph speed limits in the US mean that x/20 oils and thinner box oils are just about OK IF you keep to a shortish OCI.
The 3000 mile OCI lobby groups just love a good 5w20 and are pushing for 0w16 next. Not all manufacturers play the CAFE game with thin oils, some stay well clear.
In the long term I think most petrol engines will finnish up using a straight 20 in summer and a 0/16 in winter.
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So no one has any experience with it?
Hi Red91,
I have never used this LM oil, but I have used lots of 20W-50 oil in cars of that vintage. I live in a warm climate, so they were fine, no problems.
In the Australian Commodore cars they used a SuperCharged 3.8L V6 from Buick. In Oz the owners manual said to use 20W-50 or 15W-40, in the USA I'm pretty sure you guys were using 10W-30 etc in the exact same Buick engine.
My problem with a lot of common 20W-50 oils around me, is that they are made to older oil specs like API SG, and tend to have a low TBN ~6, so I see them as six month oils, made to a low price point.
So I like the look of the LM 20W-50 which is made to more moder oils specs like API SL and ACEA A3/B4. It looks like a modern quality interpretation of 20W-50 that is aimed at the high end of the market, not the low end like a cheap SG 20W-50. If it's the most up to date A3/B4 spec it should have a TBN of 10 or more, if it's the older A3/B4 spec it should still have a TBN of 8 or more, like many modern oils. So I think this LM 20W-50 should be more of a 12 month oil (given reasonable miles).
If I needed a modern 20W-50, then yes, I would happily use this LM oil.
I have never used this LM oil, but I have used lots of 20W-50 oil in cars of that vintage. I live in a warm climate, so they were fine, no problems.
In the Australian Commodore cars they used a SuperCharged 3.8L V6 from Buick. In Oz the owners manual said to use 20W-50 or 15W-40, in the USA I'm pretty sure you guys were using 10W-30 etc in the exact same Buick engine.
My problem with a lot of common 20W-50 oils around me, is that they are made to older oil specs like API SG, and tend to have a low TBN ~6, so I see them as six month oils, made to a low price point.
So I like the look of the LM 20W-50 which is made to more moder oils specs like API SL and ACEA A3/B4. It looks like a modern quality interpretation of 20W-50 that is aimed at the high end of the market, not the low end like a cheap SG 20W-50. If it's the most up to date A3/B4 spec it should have a TBN of 10 or more, if it's the older A3/B4 spec it should still have a TBN of 8 or more, like many modern oils. So I think this LM 20W-50 should be more of a 12 month oil (given reasonable miles).
If I needed a modern 20W-50, then yes, I would happily use this LM oil.
My Buick has a Chevy 350, and I know 20W-50 is fine, if not preferable in that engine. I'm seriously considering buying some of this oil for it. I love their MoS2 additive, and I see this oil as top notch, and way better than what the car actually needs. If I buy some, I think I'll sacrifice one litre for a VOA.
(Positive) effects of metal-sulfides are known for a long time.
Liqui Moly, german manufacturer - established their name when they first used liquid molibden-disulfide (MoS2) in engine oil - more than half century ago (1957).
In Europe, many people use this in their engines with 100,000 miles or more.
Liqui Moly, german manufacturer - established their name when they first used liquid molibden-disulfide (MoS2) in engine oil - more than half century ago (1957).
In Europe, many people use this in their engines with 100,000 miles or more.
That's why I'm looking at it. I've currently got their MoS2 additive in my current fill, and I'm thinking, why not just buy their oil with the MoS2 already blended in? I'm unsure of the condition of the engine; it runs good, but made a lot of clacking when first I got it running, but upon changing the oil and adding the MoS2, it's pretty much stopped. So, I have just cause for wanting this oil, plus it's something new to try, and that's kind of fun.
It's appearing that I may only be able to access the 10W-40 version, which is not a bad thing. Liqui Moly says its a semi synthetic, and is recommended for high mileage cars. I may go with that.
A semi-Syn LM 10W-40 would be a good oil.
It should be Euro A3/B4 rated, I would happily use it.
It should be Euro A3/B4 rated, I would happily use it.
It list the same specs as the 20W-50. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B4. I can get the 10W-40 off Amazon.
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