Leave it in for normal OCI
OK, I admit it. I'm an oil snob.
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dnewton3
Staff member
I'm not taunting or harassing you, but if you really want to KNOW how it's doing, I have three little letters for you:
U....O.....A......
Why guess when you can know for sure? Why not actually test the oil after perhaps 5k or 10k miles, and then post up the UOA and add to the knowledge base here, rather than just contribute to the ever-present presumptive lump of guessing on this site?
I mean if you're considering wasting perfectly good oil by dumping it out way too soon, then you should be willing to "waste" money on a UOA and actually learn something that you can share with all of us.
I've seen plenty of UOAs from Wolfs Head oils and they do as well as all other API certified lubes when used for the intended application and reasonable OCIs. But then again I tend to look at results and then make decisions, rather than guess based upon prejudice and supposition.
My apologies for the snarky approach, but blunt is what I do.
And - I will confess that I, too, was an oil and filter snob for a long time.
At first, I was ignorant of the oil and lube choices, and didn't care much.
Then, I got sucked into marketing hype and mythology and rhetoric; I didn't know better.
Now, I use data analysis to show me the reality, and then make my decisions accordingly.
The truth shall set your wallet free and your mind at ease.
U....O.....A......
Why guess when you can know for sure? Why not actually test the oil after perhaps 5k or 10k miles, and then post up the UOA and add to the knowledge base here, rather than just contribute to the ever-present presumptive lump of guessing on this site?
I've seen plenty of UOAs from Wolfs Head oils and they do as well as all other API certified lubes when used for the intended application and reasonable OCIs. But then again I tend to look at results and then make decisions, rather than guess based upon prejudice and supposition.
My apologies for the snarky approach, but blunt is what I do.
And - I will confess that I, too, was an oil and filter snob for a long time.
At first, I was ignorant of the oil and lube choices, and didn't care much.
Then, I got sucked into marketing hype and mythology and rhetoric; I didn't know better.
Now, I use data analysis to show me the reality, and then make my decisions accordingly.
The truth shall set your wallet free and your mind at ease.
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Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
If I've learned one thing on this site it is this: if an oil meets the specs the rest is marketing. I used to be an oil snob: Pentosin, Motul, Redline etc. Not any more. My entire stash of oil costs between $1.25-2.75quart, meets the specs and the UAOs are so normal I stopped doing them.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I'm not taunting or harassing you, but if you really want to KNOW how it's doing, I have three little letters for you:
U....O.....A......
Why guess when you can know for sure? Why not actually test the oil after perhaps 5k or 10k miles, and then post up the UOA and add to the knowledge base here, rather than just contribute to the ever-present presumptive lump of guessing on this site?
I mean if you're considering wasting perfectly good oil by dumping it out way too soon, then you should be willing to "waste" money on a UOA and actually learn something that you can share with all of us.
I've seen plenty of UOAs from Wolfs Head oils and they do as well as all other API certified lubes when used for the intended application and reasonable OCIs. But then again I tend to look at results and then make decisions, rather than guess based upon prejudice and supposition.
My apologies for the snarky approach, but blunt is what I do.
And - I will confess that I, too, was an oil and filter snob for a long time.
At first, I was ignorant of the oil and lube choices, and didn't care much.
Then, I got sucked into marketing hype and mythology and rhetoric; I didn't know better.
Now, I use data analysis to show me the reality, and then make my decisions accordingly.
The truth shall set your wallet free and your mind at ease.
The next UOA would probably be poor anyway, due to the engine being opened up when the pan was dropped to change the gasket.
I've done plenty of UOA's on the Dodge and posted them here, so my OCI has been developed for RT6. I'm not going to throw that effort into the trash because the shop didn't ask me what oil to put in it.
I'm not taunting or harassing you, but if you really want to KNOW how it's doing, I have three little letters for you:
U....O.....A......
Why guess when you can know for sure? Why not actually test the oil after perhaps 5k or 10k miles, and then post up the UOA and add to the knowledge base here, rather than just contribute to the ever-present presumptive lump of guessing on this site?
I've seen plenty of UOAs from Wolfs Head oils and they do as well as all other API certified lubes when used for the intended application and reasonable OCIs. But then again I tend to look at results and then make decisions, rather than guess based upon prejudice and supposition.
My apologies for the snarky approach, but blunt is what I do.
And - I will confess that I, too, was an oil and filter snob for a long time.
At first, I was ignorant of the oil and lube choices, and didn't care much.
Then, I got sucked into marketing hype and mythology and rhetoric; I didn't know better.
Now, I use data analysis to show me the reality, and then make my decisions accordingly.
The truth shall set your wallet free and your mind at ease.
The next UOA would probably be poor anyway, due to the engine being opened up when the pan was dropped to change the gasket.
I've done plenty of UOA's on the Dodge and posted them here, so my OCI has been developed for RT6. I'm not going to throw that effort into the trash because the shop didn't ask me what oil to put in it.
Here's a UOA for you www.benboyle.com/uoa.pdf
Actually not THAT bad for these high revving Citroen engines!
I remember back in the time SAE 30 was recommended for these engines in winter, and SAE 40 in summer (or was it sae 20 and 30?). I guess the 1986 one had updated specs.
I remember back in the time SAE 30 was recommended for these engines in winter, and SAE 40 in summer (or was it sae 20 and 30?). I guess the 1986 one had updated specs.
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