Which Screw Extractor?
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I could write a 3000 word post recommending a screw extractor set and how to use it correctly, but in the end, you'll probably end up getting the spiral type like everybody else does ... they suck.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I could write a 3000 word post recommending a screw extractor set and how to use it correctly, but in the end, you'll probably end up getting the spiral type like everybody else does ... they suck.
Yes. Not only do they not seem to work very well, but they can break off, and then you've got a hardened steel insert in the thing you might be wanting to drill out.
Not good.
This type works at least sometimes. You hammer them into the pilot hole, simpler and more effective than screwing them in. The hardened edges of the fluting dig in to its bore and will transfer rotational torque.
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM
Mine were Sykes-Pickavant, but they don't seem to have a picture online, from a quick look.
I could write a 3000 word post recommending a screw extractor set and how to use it correctly, but in the end, you'll probably end up getting the spiral type like everybody else does ... they suck.
Yes. Not only do they not seem to work very well, but they can break off, and then you've got a hardened steel insert in the thing you might be wanting to drill out.
Not good.
This type works at least sometimes. You hammer them into the pilot hole, simpler and more effective than screwing them in. The hardened edges of the fluting dig in to its bore and will transfer rotational torque.
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM
Mine were Sykes-Pickavant, but they don't seem to have a picture online, from a quick look.
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I think asking a professional if you can tow it to his garage is smart.
Like has been said, if you get 'unlucky' you will make things much worse.
Like has been said, if you get 'unlucky' you will make things much worse.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I could write a 3000 word post recommending a screw extractor set and how to use it correctly, but in the end, you'll probably end up getting the spiral type like everybody else does ... they suck.
Which one do you recommend then?
I could write a 3000 word post recommending a screw extractor set and how to use it correctly, but in the end, you'll probably end up getting the spiral type like everybody else does ... they suck.
Which one do you recommend then?
I rarely use extractors, when I do its when the bolt broke going in for some reason (usually a defective bolt) or just to remove the last remaining threads left in the hole.
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
I use cobalt or solid carbide left hand drills to drill it out, many times the bolt will come right out with the drill bit.
Don't use the spirals, you break one off and its a real PITA.
Use a fluted type extractor like these. Proto are decent and cheap enough for high quality.
https://www.zoro.com/proto-screw-extract...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds
Its happened to me, the spirals will break off, just as Ducked and Trav stated. They will break with out warning , you will not feel it getting close. They suck.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Yes. Not only do they not seem to work very well, but they can break off, and then you've got a hardened steel insert in the thing you might be wanting to drill out.
Not good.
I thought I was the only one that had this happen. I never did get that bolt out! Didn't need to anyway. Think I'll throw the rest of the screw extractor set out. I like the idea of the hammer-in extractors.
Yes. Not only do they not seem to work very well, but they can break off, and then you've got a hardened steel insert in the thing you might be wanting to drill out.
Not good.
I thought I was the only one that had this happen. I never did get that bolt out! Didn't need to anyway. Think I'll throw the rest of the screw extractor set out. I like the idea of the hammer-in extractors.
Tried several made of chrome vanadium, even the ones "toughened" with burnishing, etc. All broke. This one hasn't yet for what its worth; not saying it won't too, but its just another option in a sea of these things...it is made of carbon steel. I try like [censored] not to use them for fear of breaking.
extractor
extractor
When it's possible, my favorite extractor is my welder
... especially when it comes to bigger diameter hardened bolts. No way do I want to be standing there that long trying to drill through it haha. The concentrated heat from welding on a nut also helps with breaking up the rust. Granted it's not always possible, I just wanted to put out my favorite and most successful method (I HATE extractors).
... especially when it comes to bigger diameter hardened bolts. No way do I want to be standing there that long trying to drill through it haha. The concentrated heat from welding on a nut also helps with breaking up the rust. Granted it's not always possible, I just wanted to put out my favorite and most successful method (I HATE extractors).
And they have the balls to name the spiral ones Easy-Outs.
I once broke a lug bolt off and tried with a spiral one and gave up. A machine shop did it (milling machine) and installed a Heli-Coil. I should have bought a new hub.
I once broke a lug bolt off and tried with a spiral one and gave up. A machine shop did it (milling machine) and installed a Heli-Coil. I should have bought a new hub.
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Why is it that the spiral extractors break more often than the fluted extractors?
Because as you turn it, it forces pressure outward against the drilled bolt, preventing itself from turning.
The tapered square extractor applies outward pressure the one time when you tap it in, but it doesn't apply more and more outward pressure as you're turning it.
Why is it that the spiral extractors break more often than the fluted extractors?
Because as you turn it, it forces pressure outward against the drilled bolt, preventing itself from turning.
The tapered square extractor applies outward pressure the one time when you tap it in, but it doesn't apply more and more outward pressure as you're turning it.
I have used these before, I don't own the set only a couple of singles but they work okay and are harder to break than spirals.
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Multi-Spline...=irwin+easy+out
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Multi-Spline...=irwin+easy+out
^ Those are popular with Aviation mechanics for backing out screws with stripped heads holding the wing inspection covers on.
Or rounded out allen, torx and 12pt bolts. They work okay but like any easy out dont use any one of them on rusted in broken bolts, drill it and pick the threads out.
^ I've had awesome success with Proto extractors. The hardest part is drilling a hole through dead center; once you've done that, you're home free.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The hardest part is drilling a hole through dead center; once you've done that, you're home free.
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
The trick to getting the hole straight is to file or grind the broken bolt flat if raised above the work and use a sharp center punch. If the bolt is broken below the surface use a piece of steel line that fits in the hole to keep the drill centered instead of trying to free hand it.
I have an old Blue point extractor set that has a selection of guide tubes an drills for each easy out size. A good set of left handed drill bits are the thing to use here, they are a must in every mechanics box.
A good rule to follow is if you live in the rust belt and the bolt broke because its rotten forget the easy outs altogether and go for the drill. Broken easy outs of any type and taps can be the PITA no one needs.
The hardest part is drilling a hole through dead center; once you've done that, you're home free.
That the whole point right there. If you get the hole dead center with a small diameter bit its no big deal to increase the hole diameter one size at a time until only a shell with threads is left and they usually come right out with a LH drill bit.
The trick to getting the hole straight is to file or grind the broken bolt flat if raised above the work and use a sharp center punch. If the bolt is broken below the surface use a piece of steel line that fits in the hole to keep the drill centered instead of trying to free hand it.
I have an old Blue point extractor set that has a selection of guide tubes an drills for each easy out size. A good set of left handed drill bits are the thing to use here, they are a must in every mechanics box.
A good rule to follow is if you live in the rust belt and the bolt broke because its rotten forget the easy outs altogether and go for the drill. Broken easy outs of any type and taps can be the PITA no one needs.
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