I like Amsoil HD MP as chain lube. It seems to work really well and doesn't sling of much.
my take on chain lube
- Thread starter bonjo
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I haven't had a chain drive for a long time, but recently got one on my CB. I used to use Maxima Chain Wax, so bought another can of that for chain lube. Always seemed to do just fine. Clean with regular WD40, dry off, then apply the chain wax. Hope that still works!
I've been using Belray Superclean after trying out several other products. It is expensive.
I don't spray it on. Spray into a cup and apply with a small paint brush. On a clean, dry, warm chain. It dries fairly fast in low humidity and on a warm day.
It does not fling or attract dirt. It lives up to its name.
I don't spray it on. Spray into a cup and apply with a small paint brush. On a clean, dry, warm chain. It dries fairly fast in low humidity and on a warm day.
It does not fling or attract dirt. It lives up to its name.
Originally Posted By: rokky
I've been using Belray Superclean after trying out several other products. It is expensive.
I don't spray it on. Spray into a cup and apply with a small paint brush. On a clean, dry, warm chain. It dries fairly fast in low humidity and on a warm day.
It does not fling or attract dirt. It lives up to its name.
I have been using this on my FZ1 chain, my can is about 10 seasons old, as is the bike. About 20K on the original chain. I doesn't take much to do the job.
I've been using Belray Superclean after trying out several other products. It is expensive.
I don't spray it on. Spray into a cup and apply with a small paint brush. On a clean, dry, warm chain. It dries fairly fast in low humidity and on a warm day.
It does not fling or attract dirt. It lives up to its name.
I have been using this on my FZ1 chain, my can is about 10 seasons old, as is the bike. About 20K on the original chain. I doesn't take much to do the job.
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Amsoil HD MP and Klotz KLR clean chain lube are my favorites. They coat and seal out the chain to keep it clean and protected. They also last a long time and are a good value. The only downsides to those products are that the chain should be reasonably clean before you apply them and they usually have to be ordered online. I have never seen a store sell either one on the shelf.
Dupont's Teflon chain lube was probably the best on the shelf product that was easily available at Wal-Mart and Lowes. It wasn't super long lasting though and seemed to cause a light surface rust on the chains, as most on the shelf aerosol chain lubes did.
Chainsaw bar and chain oil or whatever the heaviest gear oil you can find work well and are very cheap but make a mess and are hard to apply. Brushing on a light coat with a small paint brush was the best method I could figure.
Now I ride a shaft driven bike and change the gear oil every 5,000 miles
Dupont's Teflon chain lube was probably the best on the shelf product that was easily available at Wal-Mart and Lowes. It wasn't super long lasting though and seemed to cause a light surface rust on the chains, as most on the shelf aerosol chain lubes did.
Chainsaw bar and chain oil or whatever the heaviest gear oil you can find work well and are very cheap but make a mess and are hard to apply. Brushing on a light coat with a small paint brush was the best method I could figure.
Now I ride a shaft driven bike and change the gear oil every 5,000 miles
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One aspect of chain lube I have recently noticed is how it affects the gear change. I was startled by this, never thinking the extend it can improve or worsen the gear change!
GOing back the my original needs breakdown: rust protection and lubrication of side plate and sprocket to roller engagement. What works best also depends hugely on the climatic environment and your riding.
Over in the uk, we are blessed with a very hostile and bike unfriendly climate (constant swing from dry to wet with warm and cold temperatures all with a lashing of 70~100% humidity)
To add to this misery, roads are crumbling to below 4rth world countries standard. Pothole you could loose a dog inside, gravel, grit and dirt left over by heavy commercial vehicles too wide for the road and constantly dragging all the rubbish onto the road by driving over the kerbs and our beloved farmers always leaving plenty of mud and cow manure on the road while doing their best to dig up the asphalt in the process. And then for 4 month of the year salt gets sprayed on the road!
So as you see it is a big challenge for the chain lube.
I have no doubt in other parts of the world where you have stable and hopefully pleasant climate you have a much bigger choice and options that work
GOing back the my original needs breakdown: rust protection and lubrication of side plate and sprocket to roller engagement. What works best also depends hugely on the climatic environment and your riding.
Over in the uk, we are blessed with a very hostile and bike unfriendly climate (constant swing from dry to wet with warm and cold temperatures all with a lashing of 70~100% humidity)
To add to this misery, roads are crumbling to below 4rth world countries standard. Pothole you could loose a dog inside, gravel, grit and dirt left over by heavy commercial vehicles too wide for the road and constantly dragging all the rubbish onto the road by driving over the kerbs and our beloved farmers always leaving plenty of mud and cow manure on the road while doing their best to dig up the asphalt in the process. And then for 4 month of the year salt gets sprayed on the road!
So as you see it is a big challenge for the chain lube.
I have no doubt in other parts of the world where you have stable and hopefully pleasant climate you have a much bigger choice and options that work
I use gear oil applied with a 1 inch paint brush. Makes no mess with only slight sling onto the rim on the first ride after the application, which wipes right off with a dry rag. No need for solvents or cleaners. I reapply every 2-3 tankfuls.
People saying that gear oil makes a mess simply use too much.
People saying that gear oil makes a mess simply use too much.
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I use a chain lube that has moly and PTFE. I spray it on (every 500 miles), let dry for several hours, and wipe clean. Currently at 27k+ miles on the original chain with a few more left to go.
Ive given up on waxes for both my motorcycle and mountain bike. Lubes work much better for actually "lubing".
Ive given up on waxes for both my motorcycle and mountain bike. Lubes work much better for actually "lubing".
I have tried several chain lubes over the years. The best that I have found is PJ1 blue label. It needs to be applied after a ride (chain hot) to minimize "fly off". PJ1 is easily removed from wheels and swing arms with S100 motorcycle cleaner and a soft toothbrush. I never "clean" any of my motorcycle chains and with the PJ1 lube applied every 500 miles or so, I have gotten at a minimum,40,000 miles plus out of a chain.
Whether you run a specific chain lube or just wd 40, other than rust it has very little to do with the life of the xring chain.
But the film strength has a lot of effect with sprocket teeth wear.
The only way for me to increase chain life is with a better chain. that life can range from 3,000 miles to 20,000 miles, depending on the bike and which chain I run.
But the film strength has a lot of effect with sprocket teeth wear.
The only way for me to increase chain life is with a better chain. that life can range from 3,000 miles to 20,000 miles, depending on the bike and which chain I run.
Thats been my experience as well. On my road race bikes that had o-ring or x-ring chains I ran WD-40 on the chains for a season, nothing else. A spritz and wipe down before every race. While the chains were just fine with this the rear sprockets (aluminum) wore badly. Next season I used chain wax, zero sprocket wear but I hated the way it caked on over time, then switched to Dupont Multi Use or Chain Saver and stayed there, nice and clean. Still use it on my bicycle.
Anyway, it was an eye opener that proved WD40 really isn't much of a lube, really more of a cleaner. Well and a water displacer. I have trouble finding a use for it these days.
Anyway, it was an eye opener that proved WD40 really isn't much of a lube, really more of a cleaner. Well and a water displacer. I have trouble finding a use for it these days.
very interesting first hand experience More.
It confirms the fact that WD40 is good for some things but not others. Like any product.
It is good at penetrating but being very light, it provides light lubrication and rust protection which wears off very quickly. So being caught between the chain and the sprocket, it does very little long term as you have found out.
I believe modern chain seals (O/X) rubber do not perish when exposed to petroleum product. But what penetrating fluids can do is to seep past the seal and eventually dissolve the grease inside the rollers. How serious this is, I don't know and I don't need or want to take the chance. No doubt lots of people have different experiences of this.
I think Rust can affect the chain performance by attacking the side plates. Rust makes the metal swell and hold moisture and will eventually compromising the seating of the seals as they no longer sit against a flat surface.
Ultimately which suitable product works for you and how the chain is maintained depends a lot on where you live (climatic conditions), how you ride and what product availability in your country
It confirms the fact that WD40 is good for some things but not others. Like any product.
It is good at penetrating but being very light, it provides light lubrication and rust protection which wears off very quickly. So being caught between the chain and the sprocket, it does very little long term as you have found out.
I believe modern chain seals (O/X) rubber do not perish when exposed to petroleum product. But what penetrating fluids can do is to seep past the seal and eventually dissolve the grease inside the rollers. How serious this is, I don't know and I don't need or want to take the chance. No doubt lots of people have different experiences of this.
I think Rust can affect the chain performance by attacking the side plates. Rust makes the metal swell and hold moisture and will eventually compromising the seating of the seals as they no longer sit against a flat surface.
Ultimately which suitable product works for you and how the chain is maintained depends a lot on where you live (climatic conditions), how you ride and what product availability in your country
I use WD40 to clean chain before applying Stihl chainsaw bar and chain lube. I apply the lube while the WD is still wet and helps carry the lube between the plates. I let the WD dissipate before riding. With sealed chain, getting it clean of road grit is probably important.
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