Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize?

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I replaced an EGR exhaust manifold fitting recently, and used copper antiseize. The copper had a max temperture rating of 1200*F, and the nickle had no temp rating on the tube at all. That's why I used the copper. Did I do wrong?
 
A lot of the O2 sensors come with a packet or is pre-applied with copper antiseize. Copper is definitely the correct app for exhaust fasteners.
 
I have a 1996 Ford Taurus Sedan OHV engin that needs to have the EGR valve replaced but getting that sucker off without stripping the nut or breaking it off seems impossible. Used alot of penetrating fluid but still no success and have been told to put some heat to it but I am a little to nervous to go that route as I might burn the whole garage down with my luck.
 
I thought the temperature applications for anti-seize products INCREASED from regular to Copper to Nickel.

That's the meat of my question. Is nickel for higher temps than copper? Kira
 
The nickel ones, going from memory, are good above 2000 Fahrenheit I believe. The nickel anti seize is definitely a good choice for exhaust parts. In the end though, it probably wont make much difference which one you used.
 
I bought a Tub of CRC Nickel Anti Seize Good for 2400 and put it on everything I work on in my XJ, with no worries about material corrosion(stainless, Aluminum..etc).
 
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Back in the day, when I was changing plugs in our Lycoming O-320 engines, the book said only use copper anti seize. For myself, I've had a 4oz. can of nickel anti seize for 40 years. Still some left. Works for me.
 
I think I read Nickel has toxicity. So maybe that is why it isn't as common.......Kind of like you don't see Kroil all over the place........it is Industry/Industrial type products.



I also think copper may not be as forgiving as the regular silver stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I think I read Nickel has toxicity. So maybe that is why it isn't as common.......Kind of like you don't see Kroil all over the place........it is Industry/Industrial type products.



I also think copper may not be as forgiving as the regular silver stuff.


Copper toxicity is a real thing as well and a nasty one at that
 
Originally Posted By: mctmatt
I have a 1996 Ford Taurus Sedan OHV engin that needs to have the EGR valve replaced but getting that sucker off without stripping the nut or breaking it off seems impossible. Used alot of penetrating fluid but still no success and have been told to put some heat to it but I am a little to nervous to go that route as I might burn the whole garage down with my luck.

My EGR fitting was on an Explorer manifold, and was one of the most difficult I've encountered. Soaked it with penetrant for three days while stripping the top/inside fitting. Finally used a 3' breaker bar and socket with a 5' water pipe attached. While applying force to the pipe I gave the breaker bar a sharp rap with a heavy hammer and it broke loose. I had heated it with a propane torch previously.

That's why I used antiseize on the new fitting....
 
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