XC70 - Daughter's First Car

[Astro14]

http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/200...ents-front-scat

Make certain that the color is correct by calling them. And bookmark the site, it's a good one...

Cheers

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted By: typ901
Wow-nearly 180 bucks for 6 quarts of semi-synthetic and filter.

Semi-Synthetic oil in Turbo engine?
And then they are wondering where sludge comes from.

 

[Mark_Walk]

Thanks Astro....hope they have the right color. They list brown and blue as colors so I'll call to see if they have black/dark grey.

 

[Mark_Walk]

Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: typ901
Wow-nearly 180 bucks for 6 quarts of semi-synthetic and filter.

Semi-Synthetic oil in Turbo engine?
And then they are wondering where sludge comes from.


She'll be on full syn very soon.

 

[artificialist]

Is this an AWD version? If so, you should also consider replacing the oil in the transfer case and rear differential. Also replace the power steering fluid with a turkey baster. Your power steering system will either take transmission fluid or Pentosin CHF11s, so read carefully.

 

[Mark_Walk]

Yes, it is AWD. My plan is tranny first, change oil to full syn (after about 2,000mi on the Magnatec), transfer case fluid, angle gear fluid, and rear dif.

Probably after those things I'll do power steering and brake fluid.

Question...so if I do the turkey baster in the reservoir will that circulate through out the PS system? I know for brakes you have to bleed them to get fresh fluid throughout.

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
Great car. Particularly for a kid.

Join this forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?6-2001-2007-XC70-(V70XC) The site: http://www.volvoxc.com/ has a resources section with a ton of DIY how to guides. The 2002-2007 XC forum is very active and has some very knowledgeable folks posting there. It's a great resource.

Start reading this blog: http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/ While Howard's car was older than yours, it had similar miles when the typical Volvo stuff began.

So, I wouldn't even check the PCV, I would simply replace it. I'll bet folding money that yours is plugged or close to it with that oil on that OCI in that engine. Get a kit like this one: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4991/1150...urbo-5-cylinder as old parts get brittle and break. Easier to do it all at once and replace all the parts. Figure 6 hours if this is your first PCV system. Be certain to clean the PCV passages from block to crankcase as the sludge builds up in there as well.

Check (and likely replace) the engine mounts. The passenger side mount (under the crank pulley) generally lasts 50,000 - 80,000 miles and when it fails, will result in a bit more vibration felt throughout the car. Upper engine mount (on the cross bar) has a similar life. So does the transmission torque mount. The two remaining mounts last longer, but at your car's age, I would anticipate needing them too. Don't use cheap mounts, they fail very, very quickly... Use OE or Lemforder.

Check the front control arm bushings. They seem to last about 80,000 miles and then they tear, leading to excess tire wear and sloppy handling. Easiest to replace the entire LCA if they're torn. Do the balljoints while the LCA is off.

Check your Haldex fluid and filter. With those miles, you should change them.

D&F on the transmission is a good idea. Oil sealing ring on the transmission is the same as on the oil drain plug. Get them in bulk...from IPD, the dealer wants a crazy price. Consider adding a transmission cooler. Consider adding a magnefine filter in the fluid return line from the radiator cooler. That's the setup on my wife's XC. On my V70, I went a bit more sophisticated: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

D&F this often until the fluid looks good. Personally, I would just do a cooler line fluid exchange. Takes 14 QTs, IPD provides a nice kit with o-rings and retaining clip.

Buy a dedicated tool for the oil filter housing. I've seen them torn up from Channel Locks...IPD sells a proprietary one that works great. Assenmacher makes a cheaper one.

For oil selection, it's hard to beat the Mobil 1 0W40. Great oil, great price. Here's my UOA for a similar engine: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2281431

Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 showed great results in a UOA on my wife's 2002 XC: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2288158

Wife's XC has 202,000 on it now. Runs great. Drives like new. Looks like new. Take car of this car and your daughter will be well served for a long time to come. They're very durable, and once you sort through the few Volvo oddities/failures, they're great cars to own.


Kudos for the Lemforder recommendation! I thought I was the only BITOG'er that used or respected them lol!
Re the oil capacity discrepancy, what does the dipstick say?

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Mark_Walk
Yes, it is AWD. My plan is tranny first, change oil to full syn (after about 2,000mi on the Magnatec), transfer case fluid, angle gear fluid, and rear dif.

Probably after those things I'll do power steering and brake fluid.

Question...so if I do the turkey baster in the reservoir will that circulate through out the PS system? I know for brakes you have to bleed them to get fresh fluid throughout.


I havent done a full flush on the Volvo yet, but with my Jeep:

I siphoned the reservoir, refilled, then turned the engine on and turned the wheels all the way left and then right 3 times. I then repeated the process 2 times and drove it for 2 weeks and repeated it one last time. The fluid is clean.

I plan on doing the same thing with the Volvo. Yours should take the CHF-11s fluid too.

FWIW, I was in at Walmart last week and noticed they had Prestone Euro PSF on clearance for $3 a container which is suitable to CHF-11s systems. I bought 2 to use for the initial siphon and fills on her car since its cheaper than CHF-11s.

 

[dlundblad]

As far as oil, I have always just put in 6 quarts. Lately I have been buying M1 0w40 at Walmart and getting $12 off with rebates. Rock Auto has decent prices on the Mahle and Mann filters too. Bought 4 Mahle ox-149d filters for $18 shipped. I believe i bought the oil filter cap wrench from FCP Euro.

 

[Mark_Walk]

Did the first drain and fill on the transmission today. Swapped out 3.1qts of fluid, using Toyota T-IV fluid. Observations.....

Fluid that came out was dark but not black. This makes me think it may have been serviced at some point in the past.

Looked around underneath...there was a drop of oil under the turbo....also, the angle gear appeared to have some oil underneath, at least in the past. It was just dirty, dried up grime at this point. May have been leftover from prior to PCV being serviced a while back.

Also, the transmission torque mount was completely trashed. Barely any rubber left in the aft bushing location at all. I'll order some bushings and change them out when I do the next drain and fill and oil change in about 1,500 miles.

 

[sleddriver]

Originally Posted By: Mark_Walk
Also, the transmission torque mount was completely trashed. Barely any rubber left in the aft bushing location at all. I'll order some bushings and change them out when I do the next drain and fill and oil change in about 1,500 miles.

On my 98 V70, the trans torque mnt bushings are not replaceable: You have to buy the whole thing. Yours may be different. Hutchinson is the OEM supplier.

When I recently inspected mine, the larger bushing, towards the front, was the one that ripped. The aft bushing was still firm. I'll be replacing it soon.

 

[Mark_Walk]

I found the complete torque mount assembly on Rock Auto for $24. Sounds like a pretty good deal so I'll order later this week.

 

[Sam_Julier]

Mark-

In addition to Astro14's excellent comments I would add a flush of the PS fluid and addition of an inline filter in the return line. I have added this filter to both cars below and 3 others in my family. The Wix filter costs $16, two liters of CHF 11S or 202 about $22/liter. PM me for pictures if interested. Issues with the steering system are very expensive to fix.

My maintenance routine for the V70:
OLF: 5-6k, full syn, 0W30
AT: 20k cooler line exchange, JWS 3309 spec fluid
PS: 30k exchange and filter replacement with CHF 11S or 202

Hope this helps.

 

[Kira]

Oil drain plug is 17mm and the sacrificial gasket is an 18mm aluminum washer.
The transmission's drain plug is 24mm and uses the same washer.
So, when you place your first order from IPD or eEuroparts or FCPeuroparts (formerly FCPGroton) or RockAuto, order 12 of them.

Mobil3309 is the transmission fluid no one will yell at you over.
Toyota Type-IV (aka T-IV) is the same stuff. I've used Wolf's Head Super Universal Synthetic Transmission fluid (free shipping through www.amaliestore.com) and MaxLife Dex/Merc LV with great success.

Visually inspect the handbrake shoes for cracks. The brake lining is glued and the glue fails. Hunks of lining whirling around in the disc's drum (the drum is molded into the rear brake rotor) can destroy the hubs fittings leaving no place for the handbrake hardware to fasten.
Always buy Volvo h-brake shoes. Consider buying adjustable spreader bars if the h-brake doesn't grab well.

The new (A/O 2004) AWD system MAY be more lenient to unmatched wheels than the old system was but I'm not sure HOW lenient. Rotation of tires, while a good idea, might be necessary even now.

See if there are any scratches on your rear drive shaft near an exhaust hanger. Again, Volvo, or the thoughtful dealership, may have fixed/relocated the hanger but a visual check can't hurt anything.

Again, my knowledge might be dated but check if there is an air injector pump. It used to be near the radiator support on the driver's side. It shoots warm up air into the cat during cold operation. The silver valve against the firewall sticks, moist exhaust air backs into the air pump's housing and condenses. This water destroys the pump. The fix was to drill an 1/8" hole in the output hose boss so water exits. I suppose one could ensure the valve stays clear but turbos are not my thing.

I'm searching for a car like yours in FWD and NO turbo. Kira

 

[Mark_Walk]

Thanks for all the great info Kira