need help from the collective

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Sorry to hear that.

Here is how it will go down:

1) They will go by some standard KBB and cite all the faults they can to define how the car isnt worth more than $x.

2) You will have to establish collector's value.

3) It will go to court, as small claims. The at fault party will be protected by their insurance company.

4) You will be awarded something above what they insurance company wanted to pay. If it is within the liability limit of the insured, it may get paid, if not, their insurance will appeal as they are reasonably responsible to protect their insured.

5) The at fault insurance will take this to a jury trial so that it becomes a bleeding match. The "Lawyers' Monopoly" is one of the most crooked bunch of thieves in existence, and will cause a self-attrition of money (lining their pockets), that makes the price of pursuing this higher than it is worth.

6) They will force a settlement.


So the keys then become to make the situation so painful to the insurance and insured that it isnt worth their man hours at cost to overcome it, and they pay to the level that you need to make it whole.

Now my honest assessment - some of the rust and paint defects that I see in there dont look like they are caused by an accident. So you need to be honest about the replacement value of the vehicle. Sentimental value doesnt add cash value no matter how strongly you feel, so you MUST have objective evidence. I see a lot of these cars in great shape. In fact, Id love to buy a cream yellow TA 6.6 at some point maybe... Not sure why, I think they just stand out in my memories because a guy down the street had one... But point is, they are able to be found... Which is good and bad. Commonality means a broader distribution of values and lower overall value, but it also means replacement is more feasible if you go down that route....

Good luck. It really stinks to have your property damaged due to the stupidity of others, and then get stuck with all the stress of making it right to your liking, when none of this happened of your own doing...
 
My two cents is move on. Think of all the money you've saved over the years in not paying for collision coverage. I have driven for decades without collision on various old cars, and I just assume that once in awhile I'll have to pay for something. The aggravation, costs, and hassle of fighting it in court are not worth it.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1979/Pontiac/Firebird/Trans-Am-Special-Edition/Values

Honest opinions, I won't get mad. I'm only looking for low retail. Do you guys think my car meets that? Look down at the bottom where they describe each category.

I don't see how this damage exceeds that.




That $11,500 seems like decent money for a low retail car. I know the 1968-1970 Plymouth and Dodge muscle cars quite well so I was interested in what NADA would say about a base 1969 Roadrunner. Interesting, it gives about the same low retail value as your '79 TA....$12,350. And I think it might be difficult to find a decent, running and driving '69 RR for that money right now. That might be the same for your car. And NADA might not offer the extra 10-15% a manual trans often brings on collector, classic, and special interest cars. KBB doesn't even offer a premium for a manual transmission on performance SI cars.

What is out of line are the roadrunner's "average retail" ($29,500) and "high retail/excellent" ($50,300) values. There's no way a '69 RR will pull that kind of money. Those values are probably closer to $18K-$25K for "average" cruise night, regional show field car.... and then $28K-$35K for a strong #2 show car that is driven. So for the lowest value probably being weak, it is surprising they are way off on the higher conditions. Doesn't give you a lot of confidence that they can get anything close.

Generally I don't like NADA and KBB for clean, lower mileage cars. My own '99 SS comes up on NADA with high retail at $8,657. And you couldn't possibly find a 17K mile 6 speed from any dealer for less than $12K-$15K. Enthusiasts would stand in line to buy that kind of car for $10K-$11K. NADA and KBB are useful for higher mileage cars or ones only a few years old. Best to research the market itself for proper values. Best of luck in your quest to make sure you get fair satisfaction for your ride.
 
Sorry about the accident. You aren't hurt too bad so that's good.
I've seen you hold your ground on the site quite well. Though I would get a lawyer who specializes in this field.
 
HAHAHAH! Talking about Young people on their cell phones then 3 posts down "I don't keep insurance, Im an excellent driver."
Everyone makes mistakes, even you, pro driver.
 
Call up an independent auto appraiser, have them come out and assess the value of the car. They can write up a paper on their opinion of the value of the car, so then you can use that as leverage for the damage, and if they don't want to pay, you'll have proof of the value in court.

Also, if you have a trailer to pull it onto, take it to a body shop for an estimate.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
HAHAHAH! Talking about Young people on their cell phones then 3 posts down "I don't keep insurance, Im an excellent driver."
Everyone makes mistakes, even you, pro driver.


I don't know, do you keep an extra 500 bucks of collision on a ragged out 200k mile crown Vic? Its actually kinda dumb to keep that much insurance on an old car.

Actually I do have a competition license issued by my track club.

I got the formal estimate today. It says confidential at the bottom of every page, but maybe I can copy and paste some of it here. They want to give me 3900 bucks. But want to total my car with a buyback of $50. Salvage title is unacceptable to me.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
HAHAHAH! Talking about Young people on their cell phones then 3 posts down "I don't keep insurance, Im an excellent driver."
Everyone makes mistakes, even you, pro driver.


I don't know, do you keep an extra 500 bucks of collision on a ragged out 200k mile crown Vic? Its actually kinda dumb to keep that much insurance on an old car.

Actually I do have a competition license issued by my track club.

I got the formal estimate today. It says confidential at the bottom of every page, but maybe I can copy and paste some of it here. They want to give me 3900 bucks. But want to total my car with a buyback of $50. Salvage title is unacceptable to me.

You'd rather let them keep the car than buy it back for $50? Just because you don't like the word "salvage"?

Salvage means nothing. I have a salvage title on my car because it was totaled last month. It has a big dent on the left rear. Doesn't affect the usability of the car at all. I still have the same insurance, nothing is different about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
HAHAHAH! Talking about Young people on their cell phones then 3 posts down "I don't keep insurance, Im an excellent driver."
Everyone makes mistakes, even you, pro driver.


I don't know, do you keep an extra 500 bucks of collision on a ragged out 200k mile crown Vic? Its actually kinda dumb to keep that much insurance on an old car.

Actually I do have a competition license issued by my track club.

I got the formal estimate today. It says confidential at the bottom of every page, but maybe I can copy and paste some of it here. They want to give me 3900 bucks. But want to total my car with a buyback of $50. Salvage title is unacceptable to me.

You'd rather let them keep the car than buy it back for $50? Just because you don't like the word "salvage"?

Salvage means nothing. I have a salvage title on my car because it was totaled last month. It has a big dent on the left rear. Doesn't affect the usability of the car at all. I still have the same insurance, nothing is different about it.


Or they can stick their 3900 where the sun don't shine and I'll fix my car myself. Salvage means a lot. It means the value of the car will always be limited. No matter how nice I get it it'll never be a 40k car like many I see advertised.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Good to hear your injuries were not too serious.

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
I mean, everyone here knows how big a pain in the rear I am. They don't know what's coming. And I've got plenty of it to spread around for a long time to come.

The wife said get a lawyer. Naw, lawyers are reasonable people.


Definitely get what you deserve and then some. The stupid, texting kid should be severely punished for his/her stupidity, and the most effective method seems to be getting hit hard by a law suit.


Except he is probably a turnip: as in, you can't get blood from one. He'll probably just shrug, and either walk away or declare bankrupcy.


That's about the extent of it.
I have sued two people in small claims court representing myself and have gotten verdicts in my favor both times.
However, I have a 50% success rate in getting the money out of them.
If this is a kid with little to nothing, he will file a bankruptcy the first time you slap a wage garnish on him.
 
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
If this is a kid with little to nothing, he will file a bankruptcy the first time you slap a wage garnish on him.


Car might be in the parent's name which should help.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
If the car is over 10 yrs old in MA, there is no change in title status just because it was a total.


Not meaning to get into an argument with a neighbor, but I don't think that's true from what I've read going thru the mass salvage laws. But I'll take another look.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
I don't know, do you keep an extra 500 bucks of collision on a ragged out 200k mile crown Vic? Its actually kinda dumb to keep that much insurance on an old car.

As I mentioned before, your approach does have a certain wisdom to it. If it were up here, things would be different, but that's only taking your specific circumstances. In Saskatchewan, collision insurance is part of your plates. Your vehicle wouldn't be expensive to plate. My F-150 costs under $400 a year for plates and insurance combined; your vehicle shouldn't be oppressive, either. Great. If I buy something much more "interesting" from that era, like even an older BMW, my insurance will be triple that on a vehicle that isn't worth as much as the annual plates.

Even a twenty year old SUV is getting to the point where the insurance exceeds the value of the vehicle. If you're going old here, two wheel drive regular cab pickups are the way for cheap insurance.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: andyd
If the car is over 10 yrs old in MA, there is no change in title status just because it was a total.


Not meaning to get into an argument with a neighbor, but I don't think that's true from what I've read going thru the mass salvage laws. But I'll take another look.


Definitions
A total loss salvage motor vehicle is a motor vehicle:

Which has been stolen and unrecovered, or
Which has been wrecked, destroyed, or damaged by collision, fire, water, or other occurrence to such an extent that the owner or, if the vehicle was insured, the insurer considers uneconomical to repair
If a vehicle has been declared a total loss the owner or, if insured, the insurance company must apply for a Salvage Title.

Passenger vehicles ten (10) or more model years old at the date of the event which caused the vehicle to be declared a total loss are exempt from the Salvage Title process. These vehicles will carry a Reconstructed Prior Salvage brand.

A vehicle with a Salvage Repairable Title cannot be registered until the vehicle has passed the required Salvage Inspection. (See Salvage Inspection section)

Please note: Once a Salvage Title has been issued in Massachusetts or in any other state, the Salvage Title and Salvage Inspection process as stated in M.G.L. ch90D must be completed regardless of the age of the vehicle. The salvage classification is permanent and remains part of the vehicle history. A Salvage titled vehicle can never be issued a Clear title.


Andy, You're right. Or partially right. Its a bit confusing. The way I interpret this is that I won't have to go through the salvage title inspection process but there may be a reconstructed brand assigned. Right now my title has nothing listed under the brands section. I'm going to be an expert at this baloney before its all said and done.
 
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Well, it sounds like it could be worse to deal with. Up here, there aren't many distinctions. If it's totalled, you need to get it inspected before it can be plated again, and it will say so on the registration for all eternity. As long as you're willing to spend the money to make it pass inspection, they'll go along with it. The only exceptions were vehicles junked in our equivalent cash for clunkers program, which blacklisted the VIN.
 
Op, turtlevette,
alternative approach:
i know you said you can repair your own car,...
but for knowledge of your state law and real-world applications/contortions i would suggest you get a hold of the shops around you dealing/specialized with collisions.
if you find an antique shop, even better.
with a box a donuts and some chit-chat maybe maybe.....

still glad for you to be in one piece.
 
I took her out for a drive awhile ago and it drives great. On the highway I can let go of the wheel and it tracks straight. I'm very pleased. Its going to need a full paint job eventually. My attempts at blending with rattle cans needs more work. I didn't realize black is not black. The starlight black ppg9300 on these cars is super black. Did some research on this and found that the only auto paint blacker is the Toyota astral black. You make it by adding blue to black.
 
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