New hub, same noise

[NMBurb02]

A few weeks back the Suburban starting making a droning noise from the front end. The sound usually starts when I hit 40 mph, intensifies when I let off the gas and the car begins to slow, and intensifies when turning slightly to the right while traveling at speed, such as when changing lanes. My first thought was driver-side front wheel bearing/hub assembly and that was confirmed by a local mechanic. Rather than paying them $570 to handle the replacement, I did it myself using an Amazon purchased Timkin unit (made in the USA).

I replaced the assembly this evening using new hardware (hub-to-steering knuckle bolts, axle nut, and axle nut washer) and followed the manufacturer torque specs for all parts. When I took it for a test drive, the noise was still there. What could be going on? Bad new part? That is hard to believe, considering the noise is nearly identical to what it was with the old unit. Poor install? Again, the noise has hardly changed. Misdiagnosis? Could it be the front passenger unit or perhaps a tire issue? I can try to do a tire rotation to rule out the tire issue, but cannot get to that until tomorrow evening.

Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated!

Edit: The tires are Michelin LTX M/S2 with about 15 months and 14k miles on them. They were last rotated 1,200 miles ago, which may be about when the noise started.

 

[Rand]

rotate the tires for diagnostic purposes. if the noise moves its the tires.

 

[joel95ex]

did you check lower ball joints? they can make a fine vibration if loose

 

[NHGUY]

Differential?

 

[Silk]

tyres.

 

[Trav]

As others have said rotate the tires, if it doesn't change check the cv joints by moving them up and down, there should be no play.
Outer joints cause clicking and popping noise but the inner can have symptoms similar to a bearing.

The problem could be the other side, that's one of the reasons for doing both at the same time. Check the rear e brake mounting plates, these are well known to rust out allowing the e brake shoes to jam slightly in the rotor drum (4 wheel disk) and can cause droning noises.
A sticking brake caliper piston or bracket could also cause drone at speed but is usually accompanied by pulling and abnormal pad wear.

I have no idea just guesses without looking at the car just throwing a few things out there.

 

[Michael_P]

Ive replaced a hub bearing before only to find out the other side had the same issue. More than once.

 

[Wheel]

I'd also be suspect of the tire wear. If the bearing was bad, the tire may have an odd wear pattern causing the noise. Check the other bearings as well as the brake rotors/drums when you move the tires.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Rand
rotate the tires for diagnostic purposes. if the noise moves its the tires.
+1

Also, as Trav said, check CV joints as well as u-joints

 

[MNgopher]

Start with the tires - I thought I had a bearing going out. Switched to my snows and the noise I thought was a bearing went away. Turns out its the wear on my tires that makes the drone.

 

[NMBurb02]

I have not yet been able to rotate the tires as my wife is heading out with the kids. However, I was able to crawl under the front end and play with the inner CV joints. The passenger side did not have any real play.

Here is a video of when I pushed the inner CV joint on the drivers side. Trav, is this the type of play you are talking about? The play seems to be coming more from where the axle enters the axle housing than actually in the CV joint, which you can see in the second video. Bad axle shaft bearing, perhaps?

 

[Nick1994]

Wow! Hard to tell from the video. Does look like it would be a bad bearing.

 

[Trav]

It looks excessive from the video, you may well have a bad bearing. How does the other side feel?
There are some reports of failed carrier bearing on these, time to have a closer look.

 

[asand1]

I replaced the passenger side bearing and seal in my 1996 K1500 Sierra once. I cannot speak for the drivers side, but the passenger side was easy enough.

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: Trav
It looks excessive from the video, you may well have a bad bearing. How does the other side feel?
There are some reports of failed carrier bearing on these, time to have a closer look.

The other side moves a hair but nothing like this side.

Isn't the carrier bearing related to the driveshaft, not the axle-to-CV connection?

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Originally Posted By: Trav
It looks excessive from the video, you may well have a bad bearing. How does the other side feel?
There are some reports of failed carrier bearing on these, time to have a closer look.

The other side moves a hair but nothing like this side.

Isn't the carrier bearing related to the driveshaft, not the axle-to-CV connection?


It seems something is worn in there. The pinion flange is connected to the drive shaft.
Let me see if I can find an exploded view of this unit for you.

 

[saltyroads]

Front diff bearings, your looking at a rebuild I bet 100% because that fluid has probably never been changed.

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: saltyroads
Front diff bearings, your looking at a rebuild I bet 100% because that fluid has probably never been changed.

The fluid was actually changed 2 years/25k miles ago with Renewable Lube 75w-90 LS.

Can I get an idea of the condition of the front diff bearings by draining the diff fluid and looking for shavings or do I need to pull the cover?

 

[Trav]

This may be of some help.
When he splits the case and pulls the carrier you can see the carrier bearings.
Pulling the drain plug might be a good idea, if you have metal, its time for a rehash.

 

[NMBurb02]

That's no fun. I just spent $1,400 getting the rear diff bearings, axle shafts, and axle bearings/seals replaced. Am I likely looking at a similar bill for the front?