Whining noise after replacing timing belt

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Had my mechanic install an Aisin t-belt kit. Now there's a whining noise emanating from what seems to be the timing cover. It's loudest when the car's idling and fully warmed up. Also present when revving the engine. Did my mechanic not tension the t-belt properly?
 
Originally Posted By: Ojustracing
A whining noise after t-belt install is normally a over-tightened belt. Makes a whirring type noise

+1.
 
Belt is too tight but its not a big job on this to adjust. It looks like it can accessed without much disassembly.

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Originally Posted By: mclasser
Had my mechanic install an Aisin t-belt kit. Now there's a whining noise emanating from what seems to be the timing cover. It's loudest when the car's idling and fully warmed up. Also present when revving the engine. Did my mechanic not tension the t-belt properly?


I had similar issue with my last serpentine. After about 5K miles it disappeared. Timing belt I'd be a little more worried...
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: Ojustracing
A whining noise after t-belt install is normally a over-tightened belt. Makes a whirring type noise

+1.

+2
 
Did a little research on Honda forums and looks like you guys are right about the belt(s) being too tight (this car has a timing and balancer belt). I'm going back to the shop tomorrow. What are the risks of an overtightened timing belt? Do they loosen up over time like accessory belts? That's probably what I'm going to be told by the shop.
 
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Possible damage to the idler, tensioner and WP bearings (if driven by this belt) could happen long before the belt stretches, the belt could also get damaged.
Its not a problem over a short period like you have now.
 
Originally Posted By: mclasser
What are the risks of an overtightened timing belt? Do they loosen up over time like accessory belts?

No. Timing belts do not stretch. And do not confuse a Gilmer belt with a V-belt.

What actually happens is that the fiber carcass will eventually pull apart and the belt will break. This identical problem also happens with industrial machinery that is driven by overtightened Gilmer belts.

And, as Trav says, you risk damage to any of the bearings that are loaded by the belt, since they are meant to take only the amount of load from a correctly-tensioned belt.

Get it looked at as soon as possible. At this point, a simple re-tension should be all that is needed. Provided the shop knows how to do that...
 
Aftermarket timing belts can sometimes whine too,not sure why,but I've read that all over the place.
 
as others have said, tbelt is too tight... the tightening procedure is to loose. tensioner, rotate crank so that the cam teeth move 3 notches then retighten. likely the mechanic pushed the tensioner then tightened the bolt... these tensioners are not spring loaded like GM or dodges.
 
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Did a little research on Honda forums and looks like you guys are right about the belt(s) being too tight (this car has a timing and balancer belt). I'm going back to the shop tomorrow. What are the risks of an overtightened timing belt? Do they loosen up over time like accessory belts? That's probably what I'm going to be told by the shop.


In extreme cases, the cam can break. T-belts do not need to be very tight. If you can flairly easy twist the belt 90 degrees at its longest span, you are good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
as others have said, tbelt is too tight... the tightening procedure is to loose. tensioner, rotate crank so that the cam teeth move 3 notches then retighten. likely the mechanic pushed the tensioner then tightened the bolt... these tensioners are not spring loaded like GM or dodges.

This is all incorrect. The tensioner IS spring-loaded.

The factory procedure is
1) pull the tensioner down and just snug it in place temporarily
2) turn crank with tool in the normal run direction THREE TEETH and HOLD it there
3) use wrench to quickly loosen the tensioner bolt, at which point the tensioner will zing into position, then the bolt is tightened again, and torqued to its final value.

The problem with this method is that it can be extremely tight in the engine bay, and it can be hard to swing the wrench properly to make the tensioner "zing" correctly. You might end up with too little tension or too much, depending on how you do it.

I use a different procedure that takes a bit more time, but ensures a more-correct tension.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
as others have said, tbelt is too tight... the tightening procedure is to loose. tensioner, rotate crank so that the cam teeth move 3 notches then retighten. likely the mechanic pushed the tensioner then tightened the bolt... these tensioners are not spring loaded like GM or dodges.

This is all incorrect. The tensioner IS spring-loaded.

The factory procedure is
1) pull the tensioner down and just snug it in place temporarily
2) turn crank with tool in the normal run direction THREE TEETH and HOLD it there
3) use wrench to quickly loosen the tensioner bolt, at which point the tensioner will zing into position, then the bolt is tightened again, and torqued to its final value.

The problem with this method is that it can be extremely tight in the engine bay, and it can be hard to swing the wrench properly to make the tensioner "zing" correctly. You might end up with too little tension or too much, depending on how you do it.

I use a different procedure that takes a bit more time, but ensures a more-correct tension.


1: the method i described is what is in the honda factory manual
2: they are spring loaded to achieve the tension when the bolt is loosened, but once the bolt is tightened, the springs are no longer causing the tensioner pulley to push on the belt.
 
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
1: the method i described is what is in the honda factory manual

You're right, and I see my mistake now: I was thinking of tensioning a NEW belt, where you would have pushed the tensioner down in order to help make it easier to get the new belt on.

In the case in question, the belt is already installed. Using the factory method you and Trav gave would -- in theory -- loosen a tight belt and tighten a loose one.

It may not be the case with all timing belt setups, but for the ones I have worked on I have found that the spring-loaded tensioner does not always give sufficient tension when used as directed. In such cases, it is necessary to give the tensioner a bit of a push with your fingers to add just a little bit more tension than the default. Maybe the OP's mechanic did this, inadvertently adding too much tension to the belt.
 
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