Change timing belt & water pump, now engine "kicks
- Thread starter alcyon
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It likely is connected to the timing belt somehow...but the car is
over 25 years old now, and its service life is near the end.
I would have the mechanic that did the original work check the tensioner for problems, did he replace that? If not I would look there, it is likely a manually set tensioner for a car that old so perhaps the mechanic didn't set it correctly or it is defective, the tensioner should always be replaced when doing a timing belt unless the manufacturer says otherwise.
over 25 years old now, and its service life is near the end.
I would have the mechanic that did the original work check the tensioner for problems, did he replace that? If not I would look there, it is likely a manually set tensioner for a car that old so perhaps the mechanic didn't set it correctly or it is defective, the tensioner should always be replaced when doing a timing belt unless the manufacturer says otherwise.
oh yes tensioner is replaced with the bearings, I actually jumped the gun regarding the valve clearances, I now set them on the loose side and its clattering, now I have a rough idle problem, but otherwise the car runs fine. Oh well, three ring circus all right. [censored] hard to find a good mechanic who knows the older stuff. The cars is drivable and the temps are all within range so I will drive it like this a while, till I find some one who knows what he is doing, and I will observe and learn. Whatever the problem is now has nothing to do with valve clearances, I know now that I can set the clearances correctly.
update. Went to a mechanic near my place, a very experienced fellow. He knew immediately my ignition timing was off. He proceed to remove the distributor, cleaned it up, and changed the oil seal and o ring. He also re adjusted the tappets. He then re set the ignition timing, to where he said it was supposed to be. Then he backed off on the carb idle.
the diagnosis was , I retarded the distributor because I was hearing pinging sounds thinking it was detonation, then compensated by increasing the idle speed screw to maintain the correct idle speed. he said I was only masking the real problem, which was in his opinion, con rod bearings. I told him my oil pressure is fine, but he said could be only one or two bearings giving the problem. He said changing the crankshaft and getting the correct bearings would cost a lot of money, and he suggested a used half cut engine swap. The money he asked for wasn't astronomically high, about 500 USD for the engine swap , that includes labor cost. So I definitely am interested to try this out. Besides, the UOA's I have been doing seem to support what he said, I find about 25ppm of lead in a OCI of 15000km.
I will stop doing UOAs on this engine and if I do swap engine I will do a UOA to check and compare.
perhaps the break in wasn't done correctly 11 years back, or the guy who did the overhaul did not grind the crankshaft properly to spec with the correct bearings.
The engine runs fine except for that metallic rattling on low rpm acceleration.
the diagnosis was , I retarded the distributor because I was hearing pinging sounds thinking it was detonation, then compensated by increasing the idle speed screw to maintain the correct idle speed. he said I was only masking the real problem, which was in his opinion, con rod bearings. I told him my oil pressure is fine, but he said could be only one or two bearings giving the problem. He said changing the crankshaft and getting the correct bearings would cost a lot of money, and he suggested a used half cut engine swap. The money he asked for wasn't astronomically high, about 500 USD for the engine swap , that includes labor cost. So I definitely am interested to try this out. Besides, the UOA's I have been doing seem to support what he said, I find about 25ppm of lead in a OCI of 15000km.
I will stop doing UOAs on this engine and if I do swap engine I will do a UOA to check and compare.
perhaps the break in wasn't done correctly 11 years back, or the guy who did the overhaul did not grind the crankshaft properly to spec with the correct bearings.
The engine runs fine except for that metallic rattling on low rpm acceleration.
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I think skillset input in previous overhaul and subsequent break-in effort then wasn't the issue of current dilemma.
A certain bearing clearance(s) has enlarged due to abrasive wear(dirt from air or combustion byproducts) AND adhesive wear i.e journal and plain bearing metal-to-metal contact, partly caused by too long an OCI.
I would advocate use of high HTHS dual rated HDEO CI4/SL or CJ4/SM 15W40 or thicker , shorter OCI and 'gentle' drive to prolong engine life ..... which may be good for several more years without half-cut.
JMHO
Note:I'm afraid you need to stay away from 10W30 for the time being.
A certain bearing clearance(s) has enlarged due to abrasive wear(dirt from air or combustion byproducts) AND adhesive wear i.e journal and plain bearing metal-to-metal contact, partly caused by too long an OCI.
I would advocate use of high HTHS dual rated HDEO CI4/SL or CJ4/SM 15W40 or thicker , shorter OCI and 'gentle' drive to prolong engine life ..... which may be good for several more years without half-cut.
JMHO
Note:I'm afraid you need to stay away from 10W30 for the time being.
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Originally Posted By: zeng
I think skillset input in previous overhaul and subsequent break-in effort then wasn't the issue of current dilemma.
A certain bearing clearance(s) has enlarged due to abrasive wear(dirt from air or combustion byproducts) AND adhesive wear i.e journal and plain bearing metal-to-metal contact, partly caused by too long an OCI.
I would advocate use of high HTHS dual rated HDEO CI4/SL or CJ4/SM 15W40 or thicker , shorter OCI and 'gentle' drive to prolong engine life ..... which may be good for several more years without half-cut.
JMHO
Note:I'm afraid you need to stay away from 10W30 for the time being.
Wow you seem so sure of yourself . You sure thick oil will cure everything ? You can think all you want but you might never know the cause.
I think skillset input in previous overhaul and subsequent break-in effort then wasn't the issue of current dilemma.
A certain bearing clearance(s) has enlarged due to abrasive wear(dirt from air or combustion byproducts) AND adhesive wear i.e journal and plain bearing metal-to-metal contact, partly caused by too long an OCI.
I would advocate use of high HTHS dual rated HDEO CI4/SL or CJ4/SM 15W40 or thicker , shorter OCI and 'gentle' drive to prolong engine life ..... which may be good for several more years without half-cut.
JMHO
Note:I'm afraid you need to stay away from 10W30 for the time being.
Wow you seem so sure of yourself . You sure thick oil will cure everything ? You can think all you want but you might never know the cause.
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