Replacing the valve-cover seal is fairly easy and I've done it many times. I usually do it when I adjust the valves. The seep seems tiny and retorquing the nuts could be enough.
Mobil 1 is perhaps not so good for seals after all
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Originally Posted By: bubbatime
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The seep seems tiny and retorquing the nuts could be enough.
I'd give that a try first, you might get lucky.
The seep seems tiny and retorquing the nuts could be enough.
I'd give that a try first, you might get lucky.
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
Might be BITOG's first darwin award recipient
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
Might be BITOG's first darwin award recipient
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
I have similar experiences with Mobil motorcycle oil (I believe it was the 10w40) in my 1980 Yamaha. It didn't leak a drop running dino oil but rapidly after filling with M1 it sprung a rather pronounced leak around the shifter shaft seal as well as the left casing.
Is it M1's "fault?" Well, thats hard to say; its an old bike and maybe there was varnish or build up or whatever... or maybe the old seals simply didn't like the M1... or maybe the moon was in the right phase. In any case, this seems to happen enough, especially with M1 and especially with older vehicles to make note of it.
And in my case, I leave the M1 for newer vehicles (for example, my truck received M1 5w20 at the last OCI).
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
I have similar experiences with Mobil motorcycle oil (I believe it was the 10w40) in my 1980 Yamaha. It didn't leak a drop running dino oil but rapidly after filling with M1 it sprung a rather pronounced leak around the shifter shaft seal as well as the left casing.
Is it M1's "fault?" Well, thats hard to say; its an old bike and maybe there was varnish or build up or whatever... or maybe the old seals simply didn't like the M1... or maybe the moon was in the right phase. In any case, this seems to happen enough, especially with M1 and especially with older vehicles to make note of it.
And in my case, I leave the M1 for newer vehicles (for example, my truck received M1 5w20 at the last OCI).
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The seep seems tiny and retorquing the nuts could be enough.
I'd give that a try first, you might get lucky.
That's what I'd try as well. I've had more than one vehicle where the valve cover bolts loosened over time...especially after a valve cover gasket replacement.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The seep seems tiny and retorquing the nuts could be enough.
I'd give that a try first, you might get lucky.
That's what I'd try as well. I've had more than one vehicle where the valve cover bolts loosened over time...especially after a valve cover gasket replacement.
Well, again, the leak was probably both small and temporary. I will report on the oil loss/consumption at some point but I expect it to be near zero. This is the first time I noticed some oil around the valve-cover seal but I tend to leave the nuts fairly loose. There is really no significant leak there.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
Might be BITOG's first darwin award recipient
Not sure what you are hinting at but I prefer this 1985 Corolla's handling to the handling of a 2009 Corolla I had once, which had rather vague on-center electric steering and felt like the car would fly out of control at any moment. Power? As I said, if it's well-maintained and properly tuned, it has no problem maintaining any US speed limit, up to 85 MPH. It's also 4-speed AT, which helps at high speeds. It's not that I drive it in the left lane of a German autobahn. It would have no problem in the middle lane of a German autobahn, which is the equivalent of a US freeway lane. Shocks, steering, brakes, tires, transmission, etc. are all in top shape thanks to good maintenance. Darwin award goes to reckless/distracted drivers and/or who don't properly maintain their cars.
People even make offers on the road sometimes to buy it.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
1985 Toyota? Are you serious? Run the cheapest store brand 10W30 or 10W40 high mileage oil you can find.
Then trade it in for something that can get out of its own way and do more than 70 on the highway.
My friend bought that exact car. I laughed. His travels were ALL HIGHWAY and he couldn't keep up with traffic. In fact, it was dangerous as he almost got rear ended constantly. At full throttle. He traded it for a 1990 Dodge Caravan, and that was a huge step up. That car should not be on the roadways. Do it a favor and put it out of its misery.
That's only because the car your friend bought was poorly maintained. Mine can reach 90 - 95, even 100 MPH on the speedometer -- no problem at all. It's maintained very well -- no oil consumption at all, no faulty emissions components, and carburetor rebuilt by me.
Might be BITOG's first darwin award recipient
Not sure what you are hinting at but I prefer this 1985 Corolla's handling to the handling of a 2009 Corolla I had once, which had rather vague on-center electric steering and felt like the car would fly out of control at any moment. Power? As I said, if it's well-maintained and properly tuned, it has no problem maintaining any US speed limit, up to 85 MPH. It's also 4-speed AT, which helps at high speeds. It's not that I drive it in the left lane of a German autobahn. It would have no problem in the middle lane of a German autobahn, which is the equivalent of a US freeway lane. Shocks, steering, brakes, tires, transmission, etc. are all in top shape thanks to good maintenance. Darwin award goes to reckless/distracted drivers and/or who don't properly maintain their cars.
People even make offers on the road sometimes to buy it.
I agree 100% about your assessment about the real Darwin award winners. Greatly distracted drivers by either cell phones, in car maps on their displays, and or not maintaining their cars. Looks like all the car needs is a good paint job.. Pretty cool though. Does it have a/c??
Originally Posted By: bbhero
I agree 100% about your assessment about the real Darwin award winners. Greatly distracted drivers by either cell phones, in car maps on their displays, and or not maintaining their cars. Looks like all the car needs is a good paint job.. Pretty cool though. Does it have a/c??
Yup, and it runs on R-12. There was one Russian-owned A/C place in the Valley that offered R-12 service. I needed a new compressor -- not a problem with Denso USA being in Long Beach -- and the leaking pipes re-welded before they would put the R-12. The junked expansion valve and old drier were also replaced. It turns out that it's better not to retrofit to R-134a (by changing the expansion valve) because that decreases the system efficiency.
Will keep it for a few more years. It's certainly made to outlast humans if it's well-maintained. I'll leave the paint job to the next owner.
Smartphones and electronics seem to be a big issue. Drivers can't even seem to drive on a straight road these days, going over sidewalks, crashing walls, fences, trees, etc. Forget it if there is a sudden curve.
I agree 100% about your assessment about the real Darwin award winners. Greatly distracted drivers by either cell phones, in car maps on their displays, and or not maintaining their cars. Looks like all the car needs is a good paint job.. Pretty cool though. Does it have a/c??
Yup, and it runs on R-12. There was one Russian-owned A/C place in the Valley that offered R-12 service. I needed a new compressor -- not a problem with Denso USA being in Long Beach -- and the leaking pipes re-welded before they would put the R-12. The junked expansion valve and old drier were also replaced. It turns out that it's better not to retrofit to R-134a (by changing the expansion valve) because that decreases the system efficiency.
Will keep it for a few more years. It's certainly made to outlast humans if it's well-maintained. I'll leave the paint job to the next owner.
Smartphones and electronics seem to be a big issue. Drivers can't even seem to drive on a straight road these days, going over sidewalks, crashing walls, fences, trees, etc. Forget it if there is a sudden curve.
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Your questioning Mobil-1's effect on a 1985 Toyota Corolla with 263,000 K miles? Give me a break please.
Thank you, my thoughts exactly.
Your questioning Mobil-1's effect on a 1985 Toyota Corolla with 263,000 K miles? Give me a break please.
Thank you, my thoughts exactly.
Originally Posted By: Torrid
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
I can believe Mobil 1 is cleaning out deposits that were covering the oil seals. This is happening on my brother's 1997 Honda Civic. He bought it when it had 90,000 miles on it. Looking through the oil fill cap, it had deposits on the valve train and varnish. My brother started using Mobil 1 last year, and we changed the valve cover gasket last fall. We could see where the Mobil 1 was breaking up and cleaning the deposits on the valve train and is lightening up the varnish.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
I can believe Mobil 1 is cleaning out deposits that were covering the oil seals. This is happening on my brother's 1997 Honda Civic. He bought it when it had 90,000 miles on it. Looking through the oil fill cap, it had deposits on the valve train and varnish. My brother started using Mobil 1 last year, and we changed the valve cover gasket last fall. We could see where the Mobil 1 was breaking up and cleaning the deposits on the valve train and is lightening up the varnish.
Originally Posted By: njohnson
Originally Posted By: Torrid
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
I can believe Mobil 1 is cleaning out deposits that were covering the oil seals. This is happening on my brother's 1997 Honda Civic. He bought it when it had 90,000 miles on it. Looking through the oil fill cap, it had deposits on the valve train and varnish. My brother started using Mobil 1 last year, and we changed the valve cover gasket last fall. We could see where the Mobil 1 was breaking up and cleaning the deposits on the valve train and is lightening up the varnish.
I do wonder if that's why, but I didn't see what the cam phaser solenoid and part of the cams looked like until I changed the seal. You can see partially into the cam cover with the seal removed. I didn't even see a hint of varnish now at least, not even a hint of gold tinge. I'm sure I'll need to replace the other bank's seal at some point, so I'll look at that side when it's needed.
Originally Posted By: Torrid
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
This is not a proof that M1 may be compromising seals -- in fact it may have nothing to do with M1. Also, the higher oil pressure of 0W-40 may be producing an effect here. However, I didn't notice this with TGMO 0W-20 SN. So, it's hard to say whether it's the increased pressure, the base oil used in M1, or something else, or perhaps nothing at all. It does make me suspicious about M1 though.
My Jaguar did this at 75k miles with the same oil but stopped leaking 2k miles into the OCI. Just posted it today that it started again going to PYB. Moral of the story is that the Mobil 1 and PYB didn't make my car leak, a failed seal did. Luckily it was 30 second job to replace. Unplug solenoid, remove seal, pop in new seal, plug solenoid back in. The Mobil 1 must have cleaned something out exposing the dried seal. You can't blame the oil for a failed seal or component.
I can believe Mobil 1 is cleaning out deposits that were covering the oil seals. This is happening on my brother's 1997 Honda Civic. He bought it when it had 90,000 miles on it. Looking through the oil fill cap, it had deposits on the valve train and varnish. My brother started using Mobil 1 last year, and we changed the valve cover gasket last fall. We could see where the Mobil 1 was breaking up and cleaning the deposits on the valve train and is lightening up the varnish.
I do wonder if that's why, but I didn't see what the cam phaser solenoid and part of the cams looked like until I changed the seal. You can see partially into the cam cover with the seal removed. I didn't even see a hint of varnish now at least, not even a hint of gold tinge. I'm sure I'll need to replace the other bank's seal at some point, so I'll look at that side when it's needed.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
Isn't leaking a bona fide feature on such a vehicle?
You know the drill. Have a bit of patience and see if it slows, or simply fix the leaks. Sure, the gaskets aren't that old, as you mention. But replacing the gaskets a second time in all those years is hardly a big deal.
Try Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 and see what happens. Maybe the magnesium will wall up the gasket nicely.
Immediately after I switched to M1 0W-40 SN, I saw some increased oil leak under the car. Recently I also noticed some oil around the valve-cover gasket. Note that the valve-cover gasket is only a few years old.
Isn't leaking a bona fide feature on such a vehicle?
Try Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 and see what happens. Maybe the magnesium will wall up the gasket nicely.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Replace the freaking valve cover gasket. It's cheaper and faster than changing the oil.
^^^^^^. This.
( Sometimes there are threads where the OP has nothing to say, but goes ahead and says it anyway. )
Z
Replace the freaking valve cover gasket. It's cheaper and faster than changing the oil.
^^^^^^. This.
( Sometimes there are threads where the OP has nothing to say, but goes ahead and says it anyway. )
Z
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