Break-In Additive for fresh-honed cylinders req'd?

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I am dropping a 1JZ engine into my E46... I completely disassembled it and rebuilt it with upgrade ARP bolts and studs throughout. The bottom-ends on these engines are ridiculously over-engineered, so crank, bearings, rods, pistons are all stock (forged OEM!) with about 60k miles on them. My engine assembler recommended I do a light hone on the cylinders, so I complied.

Should I consider a break-in additive for the honed cylinders? Even though the bearings are all stock/used? Also, I should add that it has brand new high-lift cams in it as well. Thanks!
 
Just 2 quick thoughts that are related: 1) You'll likely get more responses by informing the readers what car you're referring to with an easily identifiable name, and 2) Why is it that only BMW owners use internal BMW nomenclature to identify their cars, where the rest of us just use the make and model?
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Just 2 quick thoughts that are related: 1) You'll likely get more responses by informing the readers what car you're referring to with an easily identifiable name, and 2) Why is it that only BMW owners use internal BMW nomenclature to identify their cars, where the rest of us just use the make and model?


I think what he's trying to say is that he installed a high performance Toyota engine in a BMW. Fans of other marques refer to their cars by internal numbers too; W128, B13, LS7, etc., but yeah, it makes it confusing for the rest of us.
 
What baffles me is going through all the trouble of honing cylinders, then re-using bearings. They are so inexpensive, even the Clevite/Mahle coated ones, it makes no sense to re-use.
 
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327

I think what he's trying to say is that he installed a high performance Toyota engine in a BMW. Fans of other marques refer to their cars by internal numbers too; W128, B13, LS7, etc., but yeah, it makes it confusing for the rest of us.


I guess I should start saying I have an SJ?
 
Thanks for the help guys...
smirk.gif


For those that aren't familiar, the toyota 1JZ engine is a 2.5L turbo inline 6 that came in many Japanese toyota cars. Very popular upgrade here in the states. It is essentially a de-stroked 3.0L Mk4 Supra engine.

E46 is a 99-06 BMW 3 series.
 
Reminds me of my S13 with the SR20 swap before i got my S14 and while i was fixing up a B13 GA16 for a daily that was long before my AW11 and my AE86
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
What baffles me is going through all the trouble of honing cylinders, then re-using bearings. They are so inexpensive, even the Clevite/Mahle coated ones, it makes no sense to re-use.


The whole thing doesn't sound right to me.
 
In hind-sight I probably should have done the bearings. This is my first engine build and swap so I'm learning as I go along. The car will serve as weekend track and drift duty, with a bit of street driving to and from meets, etc.

Signature is changed so we can get off that topic now.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
No break in additives. A little oil on the pistons and rings is good.


Thanks Chris. Rings and skirts were oiled when I put the engine together, so should be good.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Really no need to put in new crank & rod bearings because at 60K, they should be as new. Ed


They were in great shape from what I could tell.
 
Do an early oil change or two depending upon how you cleaned up the engine. It sounds like it has get up and go power.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Really no need to put in new crank & rod bearings because at 60K, they should be as new. Ed

They were in great shape from what I could tell.

I agree with reusing the bearings if they look good. No need to break in a new set. The new ones may not break in properly.
 
Use a high quality oil for run in (I dislike the term "Break in"). No need for additives. An early oil change would be a very good idea.

Fancy run in additives are normally only needed for old tech OHV engines, particularly those with heavier than stock valve springs. Cam wear can be an issue with them. Cam over valve motors are generally not nearly as hard on cam surfaces.

Cylinder walls and rings just need heat and pressure to bring them in. A turbo motor cannot help but supply that.
 
Fresh honed cylinders don't need an EP/AW additive...they are for cams...

4wheeldog is spot on.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Thanks for the help guys...
smirk.gif


For those that aren't familiar, the toyota 1JZ engine is a 2.5L turbo inline 6 that came in many Japanese toyota cars. Very popular upgrade here in the states. It is essentially a de-stroked 3.0L Mk4 Supra engine.

E46 is a 99-06 BMW 3 series.


I thought that was a cross-breed swap, but have never heard of anybody putting a Toyota engine in a BMW.
Seems like the Luftwaffe will fly over and bomb your house into rubble for that.
smile.gif


How much is the engine built up for higher power? Higher lift cams with higher load valve springs would require break-in. Is the 1JZ a slider or roller lifter engine?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Thanks for the help guys...
smirk.gif


For those that aren't familiar, the toyota 1JZ engine is a 2.5L turbo inline 6 that came in many Japanese toyota cars. Very popular upgrade here in the states. It is essentially a de-stroked 3.0L Mk4 Supra engine.

E46 is a 99-06 BMW 3 series.


I thought that was a cross-breed swap, but have never heard of anybody putting a Toyota engine in a BMW.
Seems like the Luftwaffe will fly over and bomb your house into rubble for that.
smile.gif


How much is the engine built up for higher power? Higher lift cams with higher load valve springs would require break-in. Is the 1JZ a slider or roller lifter engine?



It is actually becoming a very popular swap for the E36 and E46 chassis (3 series). The engines are relatively cheap, and the bottom-ends can hold north of 600HP with ease thanks to factory forged internals. A guy local here has a 2JZ swapped into his early 90s 5 series.

The cams (272 duration), valve springs (increased seat pressure), and retainers (titanium) are all new. It is a slider style cam, with the camshaft sitting on top of buckets (which hold a shim). The cam actually makes contact/slides on the shim, which rests on the top of the bucket. Some of the shims are new, some are re-used.
 
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