Castrol GTX 15w50 Zddp content?

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Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy

As you might expect, my opinions about 'brands' are not what you might call flattering. The biggest brands can be the most ruthless when it comes to cutting costs out on an oil.


A quite knowledgable guy who used to post here extensively before advertising and sponsorship stated that about Ashlands.

They had the most well equipped, and extensive laboratory, but used it for the "dark side" least cost to pass the tests, rather than trouncing them.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy

As you might expect, my opinions about 'brands' are not what you might call flattering. The biggest brands can be the most ruthless when it comes to cutting costs out on an oil.


A quite knowledgable guy who used to post here extensively before advertising and sponsorship stated that about Ashlands.

They had the most well equipped, and extensive laboratory, but used it for the "dark side" least cost to pass the tests, rather than trouncing them.


OK, I can see that happening.
Probably why I like to go slightly higher specs than required, like Dexos or ACEA rather than just API.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Joe90,

I'm running full synthetics right now, but you are making me feel like adding a drop of old school SL or SG 20W-50, just to sweeten the brew. Just a touch, even though it goes against my view of never mixing products.

These monogrades for small engines, would they typically be Grp 1 ?
Maybe 50 ml of a group 1 monograde per synthetic oil change ?

Oh No !!!! I'm turning into a backyard oil mixer !!

Same concern here, since I'm reading this thread!

I'm using full synth (well, not full but at least they are advertised as such) oils in all my cars, even the 20y old.
Over the year I've tried many oils, but the one I am currently using are giving smooth running engines and decent MPG.

I did a recent incursion in the mineral world (lol) with Selenia Turbo diesel oil, was awesome (really awesome, engine even sounded different) for ~2000Km before it sheared so much the engine noise was unbearable, so I changed it early.... and now I'm considering mixing^^
 
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SR5,

I strongly suggest you don't turn in a backyard blender. If you're currently using a synthetic oil and you don't have any problems, my advice is just keep doing what you're doing.

The '1% heavy' trick is just one of many dodges formulators use to keep costs to an absolute minimum. Once you've passed out of the development phase and into full commercialisation, many of these tricks cease to have any real-life relevance.
 
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Don't worry everybody, I have gotten a grip on myself, and I will NOT start any backyard blending. Just got a little excited with a little bit of new knowledge, all under control now.

Shannow, good turbine story. I wonder if they had run Grp II from the beginning, what would have happened. That sudden change in solubility can't have been good.

Anyway, I now have a bit more respect for Grp I oil, and I see how a little bit can help the situation. A Grp I/III semi-Syn makes a lot more sense to me now.
 
One thing i notice though is that since i put in HX3 the oil has gotten darker a lot quicker , with the Mobil 2000 Semi Synthetic that i used to put in it didn't darken a lot , as of today the oil it currently has in it is nearly black in colour and i only changed it last September, i've done about 800 - 1000 Km since then is this something to just eb expected from a pretty basic group 1 mineral oil with a light add package like HX3? i assume the VR1 won't get dark as fast
 
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