Incessant wiper blade chatter - Bad windshield?

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Apr 13, 2013
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I've tried all sorts of wiper blades on my Infiniti, from el cheapos to expensive beam style ones, and they all chatter within a short period of time. The windshield's been cleaned and clayed multiple times and I've torqued the wiper arm nuts to spec, all to no avail. Rain-X washer fluid also doesn't help. I'm beginning to think the windshield itself is at fault. It's sandblasted in certain parts and at night I can see swirls of scratches. None of this impacts visibility, though. From the appearance and Asahi imprint at the bottom, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the original windshield. Asahi was the OEM glass supplier to Nissan/Infiniti back in the day.

Has anyone had bad glass cause wiper noise before? I don't have any problem replacing the glass if it indeed is the culprit.
 
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I think maybe your next step should be wiper arms. The new ones might have better springs or your old ones are subtly twisted in a way you can't eyeball.
 
Put the wipers in the up position and turn the key off leaving them up on the windshield.
Put a piece of masking tape on the arm about 2 inches from the blade as not to scratch the arms finish.
Use a small adjustable wrench and tweak the arm clockwise slightly if it chatters going up and CC if going down. Do slight tweaks until the chattering stops, it should only take a couple of min and its permanent.
 
You mention rain X fluid,minute do you use it? Mrhe only time I've had chatter is when I used rain X.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
You mention rain X fluid,minute do you use it? Mrhe only time I've had chatter is when I used rain X.


You beat me to it. I use Lucas Slick Mist on my windshields, never a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
You mention rain X fluid,minute do you use it? Mrhe only time I've had chatter is when I used rain X.


I agree, Rain X can definitely cause rubber blades to chatter, Rain X is so good at beading the rain that the rubber blade is often times only contacting a small amount of moisture on the windshield while rubbing against the remaining very dry surfaces...

Also its true that a sandblasted surface would cause chatter as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Put the wipers in the up position and turn the key off leaving them up on the windshield.
Put a piece of masking tape on the arm about 2 inches from the blade as not to scratch the arms finish.
Use a small adjustable wrench and tweak the arm clockwise slightly if it chatters going up and CC if going down. Do slight tweaks until the chattering stops, it should only take a couple of min and its permanent.



Huh, I've never heard of this. Anyone else have success doing this?
 
I learned this over 40 years ago when I was a young mechanic, easy fix but not everybody knows it.
I use a piece of tape as not to scratch the paint which will lead to rust, this video is applicable to most cars.
 
Mine would chatter on the upstroke. After using them I would manually push the blades down towards the bottom of the windshield and the next time they were used they would slide over the window properly rather than jump and chatter.
 
Originally Posted By: ajchien
Huh, I've never heard of this. Anyone else have success doing this?

Yes.

Wipers chatter because the rubber sits too vertical (or even leans backwards) during the part of the stroke where they chatter. This is much more typical with aftermarket assemblies than it is with OEM assemblies.

Conversely, if the rubber leans over too far during the stroke (wiping edge dragging too far behind the blade), the blade will "hydroplane" over the water like a water-skier, and you will get smearing. This usually happens when the blade's pivot points get worn.

A test you can perform:
-- Find a pencil with a new, long eraser on the end.
-- Hold the pencil with your fingertips by the point only.
-- Touch the pencil's eraser to a shiny smooth tabletop, pencil standing vertically like a flagpole.
-- Drag the eraser gently across a tabletop, making sure the pencil remains perfectly vertical or the eraser gets ahead of the point.
The eraser will probably skip rather than drag smoothly.

-- Now lean the pencil over a little (point ahead of the eraser, opposite of above) and try dragging the eraser again.
No skipping.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I learned this over 40 years ago when I was a young mechanic, easy fix but not everybody knows it.
I use a piece of tape as not to scratch the paint which will lead to rust, this video is applicable to most cars.

[video:youtube] in post[/video]

Cool tip. So the main idea is to adjust arm itself to keep blade as close to perpendicular to the windshield as possible? Had to think some about his use of 'down' and 'up' for blade orientation but I get it. His "down" seems like 'up' to me because I'm thinking of the wiper as oriented to windshield. Anyway I get it.

Also reading this thread a coincidence. Just tried Rain X for the first time on one vehicle. Have to check for chatter I guess.
 
Quote:
Just tried Rain X for the first time on one vehicle. Have to check for chatter I guess.
The chatter starts once Rain-X starts to wear off. It is like an addictive drug. Once you use it, you have to keep on using it.
 
It seems to take years to use up a small bottle of Rain X. Follow the directions carefully when applying and lift the wipers off the glass so the wet solution doesn't touch the rubber inserts. Only lower them when the glass is completely dry.
 
All wiper blades suck suck suck, I got OEM ones made is [censored] china, and in 4 months they would screech and whatnot.. I have lost confidence in OEM ones.

Fortunately the rear ones were made in Japan and they are bullet proof.

How tough can blade rubber chemistry be - the Japanese ones last and last, the ones made in America and the [censored] [censored] made in china is a complete waste of money.

As Trump says "We are paying the Chinese to get strong and hit us", a freaking toy which will cost $3 we pay $20.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Just tried Rain X for the first time on one vehicle. Have to check for chatter I guess.
The chatter starts once Rain-X starts to wear off. It is like an addictive drug. Once you use it, you have to keep on using it.

Ok, can you explain the reason for that? Is it because it gets infused into the wiper with use? Or when an insufficient amount on windshield the residual causes the chatter?

Not doubting you in the least, just wonder why. Is there a way to remove it completely if desired?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Put the wipers in the up position and turn the key off leaving them up on the windshield.
Put a piece of masking tape on the arm about 2 inches from the blade as not to scratch the arms finish.
Use a small adjustable wrench and tweak the arm clockwise slightly if it chatters going up and CC if going down. Do slight tweaks until the chattering stops, it should only take a couple of min and its permanent.

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Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Just tried Rain X for the first time on one vehicle. Have to check for chatter I guess.
The chatter starts once Rain-X starts to wear off. It is like an addictive drug. Once you use it, you have to keep on using it.

Ok, can you explain the reason for that? Is it because it gets infused into the wiper with use? Or when an insufficient amount on windshield the residual causes the chatter?

Not doubting you in the least, just wonder why. Is there a way to remove it completely if desired?


Yes perpendicular, If you cant see the bade edge while making the adjustment like on some beam blades the CW-CCW works too.
Bon Ami 1886 will remove rain X. Use only the 1886 formula on glass, the never formula is too aggressive, it also prevents fogging.

http://www.bonami.net/Bon-Ami-1886-Formula-Cleaning-Powder--12-oz--6-pack_p_10.html
 
My old Home Mechanix Illustrated (1959) claims that if the wiper arm spring doesn't pull down with enough force, they will chatter. They were looking for 1 pound of force for each inch, which seems a bit high to me, but I wonder if that has the same effect as straightening the arm.

I've had this issue where the hinge in the arm is too stiff making the blade lose firm contact with the windshield.
 
Most of the time the spring is fine the joints pins get a bit rusty, a little penetrating oil and moving it back and forth a few times usually loosens them up.
A small shot of white grease once in a while will keep them from rusting again.
 
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