I hear a loud squealing noise especially when the weather and/or engine is cold when I turn the steering wheel. Is this because the belt is slipping or of something else?
Power-steering squealing noise -- belt slipping?
- Thread starter Gokhan
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Belt slipping, if it uses an automatic tensioner it might be weak and need replacing along with the belt. Check the tensioner and idler pulley for worn bearings also that may be binding causing the slippage.
If everything checks out replace the belt. If it uses a manual adjuster, check the belt and idler if used and replace if worn, glazed or cracked otherwise adjust the belt.
New belts often need a readjustment on manually adjusted tensioners a short time after install, its normal.
If everything checks out replace the belt. If it uses a manual adjuster, check the belt and idler if used and replace if worn, glazed or cracked otherwise adjust the belt.
New belts often need a readjustment on manually adjusted tensioners a short time after install, its normal.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Belt slipping, if it uses an automatic tensioner it might be weak and need replacing along with the belt. Check the tensioner and idler pulley for worn bearings also that may be binding causing the slippage.
If everything checks out replace the belt. If it uses a manual adjuster, check the belt and idler if used and replace if worn, glazed or cracked otherwise adjust the belt.
New belts often need a readjustment on manually adjusted tensioners a short time after install, its normal.
Great advice, thanks. Actually, I'm hearing a lot of pulley noise (worn bearing) as well; so, the culprit could be the idler pulley. It's manual tension adjustment. I'll replace the belts regardless (Bando 3PK630 or equivalent for the power steering).
Do you prefer Mitsuboshi or Bando (which are Toyota OEM belts)?
Belt slipping, if it uses an automatic tensioner it might be weak and need replacing along with the belt. Check the tensioner and idler pulley for worn bearings also that may be binding causing the slippage.
If everything checks out replace the belt. If it uses a manual adjuster, check the belt and idler if used and replace if worn, glazed or cracked otherwise adjust the belt.
New belts often need a readjustment on manually adjusted tensioners a short time after install, its normal.
Great advice, thanks. Actually, I'm hearing a lot of pulley noise (worn bearing) as well; so, the culprit could be the idler pulley. It's manual tension adjustment. I'll replace the belts regardless (Bando 3PK630 or equivalent for the power steering).
Do you prefer Mitsuboshi or Bando (which are Toyota OEM belts)?
I have had really good service life with both brands of belts, no preference. Buy the one that is cheaper.
Swap the idler out if its making noise so it doesn't fail at some point and take the belt out with it.
Swap the idler out if its making noise so it doesn't fail at some point and take the belt out with it.
It turns out that there is only an idler pulley for the A/C belt. Alternator belt also drives the water pump and there is no idler pulley. P/S is connected to the water-pump pulley and there is no idler pulley there either. Chances are that the noise is coming from the water-pump bearing.
I haven't checked the P/S-fluid level. The fluid hasn't been replaced in 31 years. Perhaps I should replace it. Chances are that the occasional wining noise is coming from a slipping P/S belt.
I haven't checked the P/S-fluid level. The fluid hasn't been replaced in 31 years. Perhaps I should replace it. Chances are that the occasional wining noise is coming from a slipping P/S belt.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Trav is really awesome on here. His answers/ explanations are really insightful and very helpful. I always enjoy reading his post about all things involving cars.
I couldn't have said it better myself!
Trav is really awesome on here. His answers/ explanations are really insightful and very helpful. I always enjoy reading his post about all things involving cars.
I couldn't have said it better myself!
I don't think I would mess with the fluid too much, after that much time and that many miles whatever depots in there might be all that's stopping the rack and pump seals from springing a leak.
I think this may also be be the case with the engine and the Mobil 1 0w40, this oil is known for its good cleaning abilities.
31 years and almost 300k the seals and gaskets are probably hardened beyond softening, chances are seal conditioners (AKA seal swellers) in the form of HM oils and some synthetics containing esters may cause them to leak or worse split.
In that engine I would probably run the most basic dino 10w30.
I think this may also be be the case with the engine and the Mobil 1 0w40, this oil is known for its good cleaning abilities.
31 years and almost 300k the seals and gaskets are probably hardened beyond softening, chances are seal conditioners (AKA seal swellers) in the form of HM oils and some synthetics containing esters may cause them to leak or worse split.
In that engine I would probably run the most basic dino 10w30.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't think I would mess with the fluid too much, after that much time and that many miles whatever depots in there might be all that's stopping the rack and pump seals from springing a leak.
I think this may also be be the case with the engine and the Mobil 1 0w40, this oil is known for its good cleaning abilities.
31 years and almost 300k the seals and gaskets are probably hardened beyond softening, chances are seal conditioners (AKA seal swellers) in the form of HM oils and some synthetics containing esters may cause them to leak or worse split.
In that engine I would probably run the most basic dino 10w30.
Thanks, Trav.
I don't think I would mess with the fluid too much, after that much time and that many miles whatever depots in there might be all that's stopping the rack and pump seals from springing a leak.
I think this may also be be the case with the engine and the Mobil 1 0w40, this oil is known for its good cleaning abilities.
31 years and almost 300k the seals and gaskets are probably hardened beyond softening, chances are seal conditioners (AKA seal swellers) in the form of HM oils and some synthetics containing esters may cause them to leak or worse split.
In that engine I would probably run the most basic dino 10w30.
Thanks, Trav.
I noticed on the inside of the power-steering belt that there is a lot of dried coolant. I used ACDelco sealing tabs recently and cooling loss has mostly stopped. Perhaps that stuff on the belt is causing the occasional slippage.
Coolant is brutal for causing rubber slippage, its like ice.
I ended up replacing the alternator (Bando), PS (Bando), and A/C (Toyota/Mitsuboshi) belts, as well as the A/C idler pulley (Dayco/NTN). However, the belt wasn't the problem. It turned out that the fluid level was very low, not seen on the dipstick.
I topped it off with Valvoline DEXRON-VI Full Synthetic and turned the steering wheel from lock to lock many times to bleed it. No more noise at idle when turning the wheel but it makes whining noise when I turn the wheel with my foot on the gas pedal (at higher RPMs). Perhaps this is somewhat normal. In any case, it's much better now and hopefully the leak is minor and doesn't require frequent top-offs. Hopefully running with low fluid for a few months didn't damage the vane pump.
I also ended up with brand-new belts -- a good thing despite a lot of effort. Some bolts were extremely difficult to put a wrench on because of minimal clearance with the inside of the engine compartment. I also cleaned all the pulleys with brake-cleaner fluid (CRC Brakleen green bottle) and tried to adjust the tension precisely by using the full mathematical formula.
I topped it off with Valvoline DEXRON-VI Full Synthetic and turned the steering wheel from lock to lock many times to bleed it. No more noise at idle when turning the wheel but it makes whining noise when I turn the wheel with my foot on the gas pedal (at higher RPMs). Perhaps this is somewhat normal. In any case, it's much better now and hopefully the leak is minor and doesn't require frequent top-offs. Hopefully running with low fluid for a few months didn't damage the vane pump.
I also ended up with brand-new belts -- a good thing despite a lot of effort. Some bolts were extremely difficult to put a wrench on because of minimal clearance with the inside of the engine compartment. I also cleaned all the pulleys with brake-cleaner fluid (CRC Brakleen green bottle) and tried to adjust the tension precisely by using the full mathematical formula.
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