'14 Accord Voltage Regulator for Alternator ?
- Thread starter HTSS_TR
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Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If the battery died in two days while not running, it is usually parasitic drain and/or a bad cell.
Or somebody left the lights on and ain't admitting it...
+1
It was not an alternator problem, but it could be now, if they are truly that sensitive to being checked improperly.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If the battery died in two days while not running, it is usually parasitic drain and/or a bad cell.
Or somebody left the lights on and ain't admitting it...
+1
It was not an alternator problem, but it could be now, if they are truly that sensitive to being checked improperly.
The car didn't start after my daughter stop at a joint for a snack around 3:00 PM, no light was on and no stereo was running.
Few months before the battery was fairly weak, I had it charged for more than 30 minutes with Schumacher SC7500A to get it to full charge.
I replaced the OEM battery with Optima Yellow 51 for her to go home. I charged the OEM battery for 2 days with a maintainer then had it tested at Pep Boys, they said it was good.
Today I had the car at Pep Boys and O'Reilly to test the alternator. Both stores said it was good, O'Reilly also tested the starter and it was good too.
Went home and tested it myself with 2 tests directed by Tegger, TEST #1 (low-charge mode) voltage was 12.6-12.7V, TEST #2 (high-charge mode) voltage was 14.4-14.6V. So the alternator is good as of today.
How did the OEM battery dead(or too weak) to start the car is unknown at this time.
I actually had a larger Interstate battery in the Accord now, this battery is 48/H6 about 35-40% larger than 51, taken from Volvo last year. The Volvo has size 49 taken from E430 and E430 has AGM AD-Delco size 49.
What a mess I had !
Few months before the battery was fairly weak, I had it charged for more than 30 minutes with Schumacher SC7500A to get it to full charge.
I replaced the OEM battery with Optima Yellow 51 for her to go home. I charged the OEM battery for 2 days with a maintainer then had it tested at Pep Boys, they said it was good.
Today I had the car at Pep Boys and O'Reilly to test the alternator. Both stores said it was good, O'Reilly also tested the starter and it was good too.
Went home and tested it myself with 2 tests directed by Tegger, TEST #1 (low-charge mode) voltage was 12.6-12.7V, TEST #2 (high-charge mode) voltage was 14.4-14.6V. So the alternator is good as of today.
How did the OEM battery dead(or too weak) to start the car is unknown at this time.
I actually had a larger Interstate battery in the Accord now, this battery is 48/H6 about 35-40% larger than 51, taken from Volvo last year. The Volvo has size 49 taken from E430 and E430 has AGM AD-Delco size 49.
What a mess I had !
So the alternator is good? But no resolution to the issue?
Originally Posted By: Donald
Bring the alternator to a rebuild shop and have them repair/rebuild it. You will end up with a better alternator than some of the junk from AZ or AAP.
After years of having issues with AZ alternators I found CP Generators in Los Angeles CA.
Never had a problem again.
http://cpgenerator.com
Bring the alternator to a rebuild shop and have them repair/rebuild it. You will end up with a better alternator than some of the junk from AZ or AAP.
After years of having issues with AZ alternators I found CP Generators in Los Angeles CA.
Never had a problem again.
http://cpgenerator.com
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Please correct me if I am wrong. You have 2014 vehicle. This might have a build date of 2013. Your battery could be around three years old. So far you have been treating the problem as if your battery is good even though you already had prior incident putting that in doubt. Without 100% making sure that you have known good battery, you started to concentrate on the alternator. You understand that battery costs $100. New alternator with labor and parts is around $500. Need I keep on hammering at you?
A battery can die in four years. It is somewhat unusual but if it had been discharged too much in the past, that is certainly possible.
I am like a broken record but as far as I am concerned, at first sign of electrical problem, replace your old battery before even grabbing multi-meter. While replacing it, clean up the contacts and give a visual inspection.
Sure you could add water, check electrolyte and get another year out of the battery but if you can't afford to replace battery every four years ($2 per month), you have no business of owning a vehicle.
A battery can die in four years. It is somewhat unusual but if it had been discharged too much in the past, that is certainly possible.
I am like a broken record but as far as I am concerned, at first sign of electrical problem, replace your old battery before even grabbing multi-meter. While replacing it, clean up the contacts and give a visual inspection.
Sure you could add water, check electrolyte and get another year out of the battery but if you can't afford to replace battery every four years ($2 per month), you have no business of owning a vehicle.
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
So the alternator is good? But no resolution to the issue?
According to tests done at O'Reilly and Pep Boys the alternator, battery(Optima Yellow Top Size 51 from S2000) and starter are all good.
Installed larger battery from Volvo V70, I think the size is 78/H6. This battery had been tested good last year, once in a while I had battery maintainer on for few days.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Please correct me if I am wrong. You have 2014 vehicle. This might have a build date of 2013. Your battery could be around three years old. So far you have been treating the problem as if your battery is good even though you already had prior incident putting that in doubt. Without 100% making sure that you have known good battery, you started to concentrate on the alternator. You understand that battery costs $100. New alternator with labor and parts is around $500. Need I keep on hammering at you?
A battery can die in four years. It is somewhat unusual but if it had been discharged too much in the past, that is certainly possible.
I am like a broken record but as far as I am concerned, at first sign of electrical problem, replace your old battery before even grabbing multi-meter. While replacing it, clean up the contacts and give a visual inspection.
Sure you could add water, check electrolyte and get another year out of the battery but if you can't afford to replace battery every four years ($2 per month), you have no business of owning a vehicle.
I think you misunderstood.
I didn't concentrate on the alternator from day 1.
Series of event:
Car didn't start at a strip mall.
Jump start didn't work, probably because of a lousy home made jump cable.
Swap OE battery with Optima Yellow Top from S2000, car started at first click. Suspect dead battery.
Charged dead batter for 2 nights with battery maintainer. Disconnect maintainer for few hours then had battery tested at Pep Boys and it was good.
Day after took the car to have alternator test at AZ. First it was good, then the tester punched some buttons and said it was bad, I saw something like voltage regulator flashing.
This test at AZ made me think the alternator is bad. Also, the OE battery retained voltage level of 12.7-12.8V a day after tested without maintainer.
As you see, PB said battery was good and AZ said alternator was bad. Without knowing how to test alternator with MM until yesterday, I assumed that those testers know what they were doing.
Further tests by different stores/clerks showed that all related starting components are good.
One good thing came out of this mess is the Accord can accommodate larger battery than size 51R. The only problem is the heat shield can't be used with larger battery, so I need to fabricate a custom heat shield for it.
So the alternator is good? But no resolution to the issue?
According to tests done at O'Reilly and Pep Boys the alternator, battery(Optima Yellow Top Size 51 from S2000) and starter are all good.
Installed larger battery from Volvo V70, I think the size is 78/H6. This battery had been tested good last year, once in a while I had battery maintainer on for few days.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Please correct me if I am wrong. You have 2014 vehicle. This might have a build date of 2013. Your battery could be around three years old. So far you have been treating the problem as if your battery is good even though you already had prior incident putting that in doubt. Without 100% making sure that you have known good battery, you started to concentrate on the alternator. You understand that battery costs $100. New alternator with labor and parts is around $500. Need I keep on hammering at you?
A battery can die in four years. It is somewhat unusual but if it had been discharged too much in the past, that is certainly possible.
I am like a broken record but as far as I am concerned, at first sign of electrical problem, replace your old battery before even grabbing multi-meter. While replacing it, clean up the contacts and give a visual inspection.
Sure you could add water, check electrolyte and get another year out of the battery but if you can't afford to replace battery every four years ($2 per month), you have no business of owning a vehicle.
I think you misunderstood.
I didn't concentrate on the alternator from day 1.
Series of event:
Car didn't start at a strip mall.
Jump start didn't work, probably because of a lousy home made jump cable.
Swap OE battery with Optima Yellow Top from S2000, car started at first click. Suspect dead battery.
Charged dead batter for 2 nights with battery maintainer. Disconnect maintainer for few hours then had battery tested at Pep Boys and it was good.
Day after took the car to have alternator test at AZ. First it was good, then the tester punched some buttons and said it was bad, I saw something like voltage regulator flashing.
This test at AZ made me think the alternator is bad. Also, the OE battery retained voltage level of 12.7-12.8V a day after tested without maintainer.
As you see, PB said battery was good and AZ said alternator was bad. Without knowing how to test alternator with MM until yesterday, I assumed that those testers know what they were doing.
Further tests by different stores/clerks showed that all related starting components are good.
One good thing came out of this mess is the Accord can accommodate larger battery than size 51R. The only problem is the heat shield can't be used with larger battery, so I need to fabricate a custom heat shield for it.
Thanks for clearing this. Don't take me wrong, in the past I had NOT taken my own advice and literally tried to coax an extra year or so out of my battery. In the retrospective, that was just dumb decision. It is like when some people try to run on the fumes as long as they can. There are no upside to that approach. For entire year, I had a jump starter in the trunk. The last day, I had to jump it twice before I finally replaced the battery.
So I keep on telling others "don't be stupid like me!" Electrical problems? Replace the battery first!!
So I keep on telling others "don't be stupid like me!" Electrical problems? Replace the battery first!!
I understand your position and opinion. If I had similar experience I would voice my concern the same way you did. You didn't say anything wrong, to me all opinions are welcome.
I did try to coax most batteries as far as I can, but when it took more than 1 click or 1 second to start the engine it was time to replace.
The last few battery changes were when the batteries' voltage were around 12.3-12.4V, a little too low for comfort. Most batteries we had lasted about 4-6 years in So Cal.
I did try to coax most batteries as far as I can, but when it took more than 1 click or 1 second to start the engine it was time to replace.
The last few battery changes were when the batteries' voltage were around 12.3-12.4V, a little too low for comfort. Most batteries we had lasted about 4-6 years in So Cal.
Back in 2002, a bad alternator was the reason for my battery issues on my 1991 Honda Civic.
Flickering battery light on my Civic would be a part of my weekly driving for a long time
AZ and Se(a)rs both tested my alternator and it was bad with AZ but good with Sears.
With Se(a)rs, the test was performed with the alternator still on the car.
With AZ (back in 2002) you had to remove your alternator and take in for testing.
AZ test would indicate a bad diode each time.
I was always concerned about the way they tested alternators.
Battery was charged up and so I replaced the Alternator.
I drove my car for a few days and then the RPMS would swing with the battery light turning on.
Replaced the battery, not knowing that the Alternator was also having issues, and battery would get killed within a few days.
I had the Se(a)rs warranty and they had no problem replacing it.
I'm not even sure how many batteries I went thru, but Se(a)rs had no problem giving me a new one, each time.
I also had the AZ lifetime warranty so I went in for a New Alternator.
Well not knowing that I was also driving with a compromised battery, I continued to have issues with the alternator and kept killing the alternators, left and right.
Fed up with it all, I finally decided to replace the alternator and battery at the same time...Just to see what would happen. AZ gave me a new alternator (reman) and Se(a)rs gave me a new battery.
Problem was solved, but only for a few months.
Belt tension and using the same old belt also would later cause problems.
This was the time when I first heard, if you replace the alternator be sure to replace the battery, at the same time...ALWAYS.
For the next 10 years I would have to deal with battery and alternator issues.
I noticed that alternators would go out on me before the 2 years.
I started to notice that very hot weather would also cause problems with my batteries
This went on until one day I got sick and tired of AZ alternators and everything about them. I learned to hate their lifetime warranty on their inferior parts.
I found a local shop that rebuilt and also sold new alternators.
Purchased the alternator from these guys and have not had to replace the alternator for almost 4 years.
The flickering battery light on my civic is not the indicator that its time to replace my battery. I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
And like I said before, using a bad battery, old battery or any battery that was not new would cause my AZ alternators to act up.
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
Flickering battery light on my Civic would be a part of my weekly driving for a long time
AZ and Se(a)rs both tested my alternator and it was bad with AZ but good with Sears.
With Se(a)rs, the test was performed with the alternator still on the car.
With AZ (back in 2002) you had to remove your alternator and take in for testing.
AZ test would indicate a bad diode each time.
I was always concerned about the way they tested alternators.
Battery was charged up and so I replaced the Alternator.
I drove my car for a few days and then the RPMS would swing with the battery light turning on.
Replaced the battery, not knowing that the Alternator was also having issues, and battery would get killed within a few days.
I had the Se(a)rs warranty and they had no problem replacing it.
I'm not even sure how many batteries I went thru, but Se(a)rs had no problem giving me a new one, each time.
I also had the AZ lifetime warranty so I went in for a New Alternator.
Well not knowing that I was also driving with a compromised battery, I continued to have issues with the alternator and kept killing the alternators, left and right.
Fed up with it all, I finally decided to replace the alternator and battery at the same time...Just to see what would happen. AZ gave me a new alternator (reman) and Se(a)rs gave me a new battery.
Problem was solved, but only for a few months.
Belt tension and using the same old belt also would later cause problems.
This was the time when I first heard, if you replace the alternator be sure to replace the battery, at the same time...ALWAYS.
For the next 10 years I would have to deal with battery and alternator issues.
I noticed that alternators would go out on me before the 2 years.
I started to notice that very hot weather would also cause problems with my batteries
This went on until one day I got sick and tired of AZ alternators and everything about them. I learned to hate their lifetime warranty on their inferior parts.
I found a local shop that rebuilt and also sold new alternators.
Purchased the alternator from these guys and have not had to replace the alternator for almost 4 years.
The flickering battery light on my civic is not the indicator that its time to replace my battery. I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
And like I said before, using a bad battery, old battery or any battery that was not new would cause my AZ alternators to act up.
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
HTSS_TR- do you suppose that the car is simply spending too much time in "Low charge mode", coupled with lots of short trips and repeated starts leading to a battery that is always being discharged?
It is possible that the car was driven mostly in "low charge mode" during the day without A/C running, but mostly longer distance at around 10-15 miles or longer. The car is less than 2 years old but it is more than 40k miles.
Originally Posted By: Gito
Back in 2002, a bad alternator was the reason for my battery issues on my 1991 Honda Civic.
...
And like I said before, using a bad battery, old battery or any battery that was not new would cause my AZ alternators to act up.
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
The problem is it is very difficult to pinpoint the actual failure part(s).
In my daughter Accord case, battery tested goo so I needed to find the source that drain the battery. Two culprits: alternator didn't charge battery adequately or a static current draw overnight.
Testing alternator is free at 3 local auto parts stores(all are within 2 miles) so I took that easy step.
All is good as of today, I will check the battery and alternator next week again to make sure they are okay.
HTSS_TR- do you suppose that the car is simply spending too much time in "Low charge mode", coupled with lots of short trips and repeated starts leading to a battery that is always being discharged?
It is possible that the car was driven mostly in "low charge mode" during the day without A/C running, but mostly longer distance at around 10-15 miles or longer. The car is less than 2 years old but it is more than 40k miles.
Originally Posted By: Gito
Back in 2002, a bad alternator was the reason for my battery issues on my 1991 Honda Civic.
...
And like I said before, using a bad battery, old battery or any battery that was not new would cause my AZ alternators to act up.
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
The problem is it is very difficult to pinpoint the actual failure part(s).
In my daughter Accord case, battery tested goo so I needed to find the source that drain the battery. Two culprits: alternator didn't charge battery adequately or a static current draw overnight.
Testing alternator is free at 3 local auto parts stores(all are within 2 miles) so I took that easy step.
All is good as of today, I will check the battery and alternator next week again to make sure they are okay.
Quote:
Flickering battery light on my Civic would be a part of my weekly driving for a long time
Does anything more need to be said after that? Excuse the sarcasm but BATT light actually indicates problem in the charging system. I agree with you that calling it battery light is misnomer.
To answer HS question, testing battery at home is NOT easy at all. Especially on a Honda. The voltage alone during resting tells you nothing. You need to measure it during extended cranking. If you have a Honda which needs extended cranking, you have other problems! So when you said, your battery tested good, that was simply not a true statement.
Flickering battery light on my Civic would be a part of my weekly driving for a long time
Does anything more need to be said after that? Excuse the sarcasm but BATT light actually indicates problem in the charging system. I agree with you that calling it battery light is misnomer.
To answer HS question, testing battery at home is NOT easy at all. Especially on a Honda. The voltage alone during resting tells you nothing. You need to measure it during extended cranking. If you have a Honda which needs extended cranking, you have other problems! So when you said, your battery tested good, that was simply not a true statement.
Originally Posted By: Gito
I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
On those old Densos, the only thing that usually went wrong with them was the brushes wearing out. The part was about $25 at the dealer, and was an easy swap. Too bad nobody suggested that to you.
Originally Posted By: Gito
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
If the battery can't maintain a full charge, the alternator will overheat while attempting to do it anyway.
I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
On those old Densos, the only thing that usually went wrong with them was the brushes wearing out. The part was about $25 at the dealer, and was an easy swap. Too bad nobody suggested that to you.
Originally Posted By: Gito
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
If the battery can't maintain a full charge, the alternator will overheat while attempting to do it anyway.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
testing battery at home is NOT easy at all. Especially on a Honda. The voltage alone during resting tells you nothing.
In general, in most cases, a battery can be tested at home using a multimeter and Bill Darden's simple state-of-charge test.
This would be accompanied by a simple observation of the dome light while cranking, provided you've made note of the appearance of that light while the battery was known-good.
Those two simple and free tests tell you about 95% of the useful information that you need to know to keep from getting stranded.
testing battery at home is NOT easy at all. Especially on a Honda. The voltage alone during resting tells you nothing.
In general, in most cases, a battery can be tested at home using a multimeter and Bill Darden's simple state-of-charge test.
This would be accompanied by a simple observation of the dome light while cranking, provided you've made note of the appearance of that light while the battery was known-good.
Those two simple and free tests tell you about 95% of the useful information that you need to know to keep from getting stranded.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
It is possible that the car was driven mostly in "low charge mode" during the day without A/C running,
Unless there is a malfunction somewhere, that is not likely. The A/C signal is only ONE input for the electrical load detector. The charging system has been designed to be intelligent enough to make sure that the battery's state-of-charge does not drop below 12.65V.
Remember that there is no actual "low charge mode" in everyday driving for newer cars: Charging voltage goes up and down in finely graduated increments in order to accommodate the vehicle's ever-changing electrical draw.
It is possible that the car was driven mostly in "low charge mode" during the day without A/C running,
Unless there is a malfunction somewhere, that is not likely. The A/C signal is only ONE input for the electrical load detector. The charging system has been designed to be intelligent enough to make sure that the battery's state-of-charge does not drop below 12.65V.
Remember that there is no actual "low charge mode" in everyday driving for newer cars: Charging voltage goes up and down in finely graduated increments in order to accommodate the vehicle's ever-changing electrical draw.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Gito
I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
On those old Densos, the only thing that usually went wrong with them was the brushes wearing out. The part was about $25 at the dealer, and was an easy swap. Too bad nobody suggested that to you.
Originally Posted By: Gito
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
If the battery can't maintain a full charge, the alternator will overheat while attempting to do it anyway.
Wish I would have known about the alternator brushes.
What was cool about the battery staying on or flickering on and off was that it would give me 45 minutes to get home....Jeez...I just remember the clock light dimming and the RPM needle dancing and me saying "come on, just a few more miles, come on"
Originally Posted By: Gito
I learned that the flickering light on my dash was the indicator for a bad Alternator.
On those old Densos, the only thing that usually went wrong with them was the brushes wearing out. The part was about $25 at the dealer, and was an easy swap. Too bad nobody suggested that to you.
Originally Posted By: Gito
And guess what the Alternator shop owner said to me when I picked up the new alternator...Be sure not to use a bad battery.
If the battery can't maintain a full charge, the alternator will overheat while attempting to do it anyway.
Wish I would have known about the alternator brushes.
What was cool about the battery staying on or flickering on and off was that it would give me 45 minutes to get home....Jeez...I just remember the clock light dimming and the RPM needle dancing and me saying "come on, just a few more miles, come on"
Replace the cheap, tiny battery in the Accord with a decent one and problem solved. Many guys on the Accord forum do this during the first year of ownership before problems like this crop up. One mod is to install a larger battery which is what the V6 has. Choose your favorite thread:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/search.php?searchid=36537290
Here's one that's pretty good with the upgrade in battery size:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/377026-battery-replacement-upgrade.html
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/search.php?searchid=36537290
Here's one that's pretty good with the upgrade in battery size:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/377026-battery-replacement-upgrade.html
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I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM IN MY 2014 HONDA ACCORD. Car will not start about once a week due to low battery voltage. It cranks over slow 1 or 2 times and then quits. Not enough juice to crank it over fast and get started.
1. I put a new battery in it. That made no difference.
2. I had a open recall for the "Battery Monitor device" I had that replaced at my Honda dealer in Ct. That made no difference. I load tested the battery - it is good.
3. I tested the charging system. It's unusual. Idling with the lights off the charge voltage is 12.4 volts. That is too low. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts. With the lights on it's 14.5 volts. That's good. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts.
4. So my temporary solution is to drive with the lights on so that I get the 14.5 charging volts. I also carry a small jump starting kit in the car so that I can jump start myself - over and over again.
5. I called my Honda dealer. For $125.00 they will diagnose the problem and give me and estimate to repair it. I go there tomorrow - 10/9/2018.
6. According to my Haynes repair manual the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator and cannot be replaced. You have to replace the whole alternator. However it's not that simple anymore.
7. There are other electronic devices in the car that constantly change the charging voltage of the battery. That's why I am going to my Honda Dealer tomorrow.
1. I put a new battery in it. That made no difference.
2. I had a open recall for the "Battery Monitor device" I had that replaced at my Honda dealer in Ct. That made no difference. I load tested the battery - it is good.
3. I tested the charging system. It's unusual. Idling with the lights off the charge voltage is 12.4 volts. That is too low. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts. With the lights on it's 14.5 volts. That's good. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts.
4. So my temporary solution is to drive with the lights on so that I get the 14.5 charging volts. I also carry a small jump starting kit in the car so that I can jump start myself - over and over again.
5. I called my Honda dealer. For $125.00 they will diagnose the problem and give me and estimate to repair it. I go there tomorrow - 10/9/2018.
6. According to my Haynes repair manual the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator and cannot be replaced. You have to replace the whole alternator. However it's not that simple anymore.
7. There are other electronic devices in the car that constantly change the charging voltage of the battery. That's why I am going to my Honda Dealer tomorrow.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted by EARLOLSEN100
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM IN MY 2014 HONDA ACCORD. Car will not start about once a week due to low battery voltage. It cranks over slow 1 or 2 times and then quits. Not enough juice to crank it over fast and get started.
1. I put a new battery in it. That made no difference.
2. I had a open recall for the "Battery Monitor device" I had that replaced at my Honda dealer in Ct. That made no difference. I load tested the battery - it is good.
3. I tested the charging system. It's unusual. Idling with the lights off the charge voltage is 12.4 volts. That is too low. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts. With the lights on it's 14.5 volts. That's good. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts.
4. So my temporary solution is to drive with the lights on so that I get the 14.5 charging volts. I also carry a small jump starting kit in the car so that I can jump start myself - over and over again.
5. I called my Honda dealer. For $125.00 they will diagnose the problem and give me and estimate to repair it. I go there tomorrow - 10/9/2018.
6. According to my Haynes repair manual the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator and cannot be replaced. You have to replace the whole alternator. However it's not that simple anymore.
7. There are other electronic devices in the car that constantly change the charging voltage of the battery. That's why I am going to my Honda Dealer tomorrow.
It might have "smart charging" and only charges when driving and coasting, not when foot is on the gas. But it's best to just make your own thread.
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM IN MY 2014 HONDA ACCORD. Car will not start about once a week due to low battery voltage. It cranks over slow 1 or 2 times and then quits. Not enough juice to crank it over fast and get started.
1. I put a new battery in it. That made no difference.
2. I had a open recall for the "Battery Monitor device" I had that replaced at my Honda dealer in Ct. That made no difference. I load tested the battery - it is good.
3. I tested the charging system. It's unusual. Idling with the lights off the charge voltage is 12.4 volts. That is too low. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts. With the lights on it's 14.5 volts. That's good. Should be 13.5 to 15. volts.
4. So my temporary solution is to drive with the lights on so that I get the 14.5 charging volts. I also carry a small jump starting kit in the car so that I can jump start myself - over and over again.
5. I called my Honda dealer. For $125.00 they will diagnose the problem and give me and estimate to repair it. I go there tomorrow - 10/9/2018.
6. According to my Haynes repair manual the voltage regulator is an integral part of the alternator and cannot be replaced. You have to replace the whole alternator. However it's not that simple anymore.
7. There are other electronic devices in the car that constantly change the charging voltage of the battery. That's why I am going to my Honda Dealer tomorrow.
It might have "smart charging" and only charges when driving and coasting, not when foot is on the gas. But it's best to just make your own thread.
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