Porsche and Mobil 1

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 26, 2003
Messages
54
Location
Illinois, USA
Got my wife a Porsche Macan S last month. Wanted her to get a fun car after years of practical Japanese rides. They "recommended" Mobil 1 0/40 which has just changed formulation. There are a lot of great synthetics to choose from.
I can still buy a few years supply of the non FS Mobil I, at 1/2 price rebate, If that's a good idea or go with the new formula at the same deal. European Castrol is an option as are others. Then there's Amsoil which seems to be in a world of its own which I don't completely understand. I don't know how engine issues would be received if Amsoil was involved.
This is an every day commute car in the Chicago area. Any input or suggestion on an oil to stay with greatly appreciated.
 
Originally Posted By: LILGUY
Got my wife a Porsche Macan S last month. Wanted her to get a fun car after years of practical Japanese rides. They "recommended" Mobil 1 0/40 which has just changed formulation. There are a lot of great synthetics to choose from.
I can still buy a few years supply of the non FS Mobil I, at 1/2 price rebate, If that's a good idea or go with the new formula at the same deal. European Castrol is an option as are others. Then there's Amsoil which seems to be in a world of its own which I don't completely understand. I don't know how engine issues would be received if Amsoil was involved.
This is an every day commute car in the Chicago area. Any input or suggestion on an oil to stay with greatly appreciated.









M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40 and that is it.
 
The Mobil 1 0W-40 formulation changed, but it still carries Porsche A40. Castrol's 0W-40 currently carries more approvals in addition to the Porsche A40 you need.

Either 0W-40 would suit your Macan well.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Stocking up on oil is Stupid. It's not like Mobil1 is a wine and 2014 will be a good vintage.


On the other hand, buying oil when it's cheap is smart.

It's not like Mobil 1 goes bad sitting on the shelf for a few years.

In fact, I'm still working through the last few quarts (out of several cases) of Pennzoil Ultra that I bought on sale. When the SN came out, the Navy Exchange (NEX) put the SM version on clearance for $2/QT, then $1/QT. I bought lots at that price. Each case saved me over $40 on future oil changes.
 
I stocked up on M1 0w-40, when on rollback @ W-M. My Porsche as configured takes 10 quarts. Our other 3 cars also take the same grade, so it makes sense for me to have 60 total quarts. Shelf life is 5 years unopened. Do what makes you comfortable. I've yet to notice any difference between Castrol and Mobil 1 in any of our cars.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Stocking up on oil is Stupid. It's not like Mobil1 is a wine and 2014 will be a good vintage.


+1.....my thoughts exactly. Never could understand why many BITOG's stock up on oil .....to do enough OC's for the next five years.

Since I only have one vehicle and do OC's about once a year....after I do the OC, I begin looking for some good rebates on synthetics quality (QSUD or PP).....which usually happens (OC) in November.
 
I maintain many vehicles, so I tend to stock up on oil...I only buy oil when on sale, but usually I buy one or two jug at the time, so my stash is not that huge.

After all, there's always a new and better sort of oil that is on sale...but that also allows me to always have at least one or two OC worth of oil in advance, in case of unplanned oil change (same is true for oil filters). I also stock some spare parts for my two Italian "beasts", since I have growing difficulties to find parts for them, but I don't stock for the two Mitsu
wink.gif
 
The one time I decided to "stock up" was just before M1 FS 0W-40 came out. Now I'm grumpy because I'd rather run it than the stuff I have. Lesson learned, hah. Fortunately I only bought two five quart jugs, which is hardly "stocking up", really.

robert
 
It's a simple choice whether you pay full price and your oil inventory lasts 1 yr....or get it on sale and buy 2-3 years worth for the same money.

The one time I decided to "stock up" was just before M1 FS 0W-40 came out. Now I'm grumpy because I'd rather run it than the stuff I have. Lesson learned, hah. Fortunately I only bought two five quart jugs, which is hardly "stocking up", really.

If you bought the older version of M1 for $2-$3/qt you should have no problem finding someone who could use it at the same price you paid. Try mechanics at your local car dealerships or repair shops.
 
If some one would update what has changed in the FS formulation that is an improvement but is no longer BMW certified.
 
Originally Posted By: LILGUY
If some one would update what has changed in the FS formulation that is an improvement but is no longer BMW certified.

MRV is better. TBN is higher.

As to why it no longer meets BMW spec is still a mystery, but it's not that it can't.
 
Originally Posted By: LILGUY
If some one would update what has changed in the FS formulation that is an improvement but is no longer BMW certified.

Do not get hanged up on BMW LL-01. It is not the most stringent specification. Most importantly is that FS version meets MB 229.5, from stand point of NOACK and deposit control.
I am not sure what is going on with Mobil1 and BMW, but LL-01 has some specific requirements regarding VANOS and that is not your concern.
What changed? Base oil. Mobil1 moved from VISOM to GTL (Gas to Liquid). They are bit behind Shell (pennzoil) in bringing GTL to the market, but as far as I know they had some issues with production line, so it was delayed.
GTL proved to provide really low NOACK numbers, although M1 is not providing them, but I think it is lower then previous version, which was at good 8.7%.
I think you can use it with confidence. However, if you want stronger HTHS number you can go with Castrol 0W40. I am not sue that difference between 3.6cp (M1) and 3.7cp (Castrol) means anything.
Better cold start (as QP pointed) and stronger TBN (need that with sulfur rich US fuel).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: robertcope
The one time I decided to "stock up" was just before M1 FS 0W-40 came out. Now I'm grumpy because I'd rather run it than the stuff I have. Lesson learned, hah. Fortunately I only bought two five quart jugs, which is hardly "stocking up", really.

robert

If I'd live in the USA, I'd offer you to exchange
wink.gif
Mostly because the new stuff is thinner. But maybe it'll shear less?
 
Originally Posted By: Popsy
Originally Posted By: robertcope
The one time I decided to "stock up" was just before M1 FS 0W-40 came out. Now I'm grumpy because I'd rather run it than the stuff I have. Lesson learned, hah. Fortunately I only bought two five quart jugs, which is hardly "stocking up", really.

robert

If I'd live in the USA, I'd offer you to exchange
wink.gif
Mostly because the new stuff is thinner. But maybe it'll shear less?

In my UOA I found previous version of M1 0W40 to be very stable. However, TBN was going down like crazy.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: LILGUY
If some one would update what has changed in the FS formulation that is an improvement but is no longer BMW certified.

Do not get hanged up on BMW LL-01. It is not the most stringent specification. Most importantly is that FS version meets MB 229.5, from stand point of NOACK and deposit control.
I am not sure what is going on with Mobil1 and BMW, but LL-01 has some specific requirements regarding VANOS and that is not your concern.
What changed? Base oil. Mobil1 moved from VISOM to GTL (Gas to Liquid). They are bit behind Shell (pennzoil) in bringing GTL to the market, but as far as I know they had some issues with production line, so it was delayed.
GTL proved to provide really low NOACK numbers, although M1 is not providing them, but I think it is lower then previous version, which was at good 8.7%.
I think you can use it with confidence. However, if you want stronger HTHS number you can go with Castrol 0W40. I am not sue that difference between 3.6cp (M1) and 3.7cp (Castrol) means anything.
Better cold start (as QP pointed) and stronger TBN (need that with sulfur rich US fuel).


BMW is currently one of the most difficult OEM specifications in the whole industry, it's also clear to those in the industry why the name changed to include the 'FS'.

A Noack of 2% wont help you gain the BMW spec. On the other end of the scale MB229.5 is probably the easiest OEM specification once you meet the paper specs. I think you read too much into MB229.5, condemning oils that meet only 229.3 due to 0.5-1% Noack higher than the limit but having all the specs. There is nothing to suggest deposits will be worse, infact theory could suggest that they are actually better.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
BMW is currently one of the most difficult OEM specifications in the whole industry, it's also clear to those in the industry why the name changed to include the 'FS'.

Is the "FS" an abbreviation for $#!@ Shell or something like that?
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: LILGUY
If some one would update what has changed in the FS formulation that is an improvement but is no longer BMW certified.

Do not get hanged up on BMW LL-01. It is not the most stringent specification. Most importantly is that FS version meets MB 229.5, from stand point of NOACK and deposit control.
I am not sure what is going on with Mobil1 and BMW, but LL-01 has some specific requirements regarding VANOS and that is not your concern.
What changed? Base oil. Mobil1 moved from VISOM to GTL (Gas to Liquid). They are bit behind Shell (pennzoil) in bringing GTL to the market, but as far as I know they had some issues with production line, so it was delayed.
GTL proved to provide really low NOACK numbers, although M1 is not providing them, but I think it is lower then previous version, which was at good 8.7%.
I think you can use it with confidence. However, if you want stronger HTHS number you can go with Castrol 0W40. I am not sue that difference between 3.6cp (M1) and 3.7cp (Castrol) means anything.
Better cold start (as QP pointed) and stronger TBN (need that with sulfur rich US fuel).


BMW is currently one of the most difficult OEM specifications in the whole industry, it's also clear to those in the industry why the name changed to include the 'FS'.

A Noack of 2% wont help you gain the BMW spec. On the other end of the scale MB229.5 is probably the easiest OEM specification once you meet the paper specs. I think you read too much into MB229.5, condemning oils that meet only 229.3 due to 0.5-1% Noack higher than the limit but having all the specs. There is nothing to suggest deposits will be worse, infact theory could suggest that they are actually better.

It is obvious that FS stands for Fuel Saving, I think drop of HTHS from 3.6 to 3.8 indicates that.
However, I would not think that MB 229.5 is just like that not important but somehow combination of MB 229.3 and LL-01 is. You are referring to that POS Castrol 5W40.
Well it is not scientific test, but since we are dealing with theories (as you would say) how is that all VW's that use Castrol 5W40 through VW dealership network develop horrible carbon deposits?
Now do not take me wrong, I am not saying Castrol cannot make 5W40 oil with MB 229.5 spec. They just do not want, since they can easily sell POS product.
It is BP in the end!
 
Do we really know FS stands for fuel saving? Why even look at a 40wt oil if fuel economy is the main concern?

I like Garak's ^&%$ Shell...it makes more sense LOL.

I think FS 3.6 HTHS makes sense if the GTL base stock is more shear stable than the old VISOM. All M1 0W40 UOAs at m3post.com show the oil tends to shear down to low to mid 12s from 13.2, and I'm sure that 3.8HTHS gets mighty close to 3.6 after you pile on some mileage.

So, in the end, with the new formula, the new 3.6 HTHS is the old 3.8 HTHS.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top