Acura RSX Type-S oil choices

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As I've been waiting on acceptance for this forum I've been doing research on what 5w30 oil I should start using in my RSX. This is my first time being here, thanks, I'm glad to be a part and I'm ready to learn lol. Anyway, I've had some bad experiences with my car, not necessarily the oils fault though. Two weeks after I got it, it spun rod bearing #1. I gave it to my mechanic, he replaced a bunch of stuff, rebuild the head even, I basically have a new engine besides the valvetrain, which only had 80k miles on it. The thing we did wrong was we machined the crank and put bearings in it to fit the crank. Really big mistake because in January, 3k miles down the road, #2 spun and while we were trying to keep this from happening again, we got a lightly used crank and all oem bearings. We found out it takes like 5 or 6 different size bearings used in conjunction, no wonder it spun. I should have the car by the end of this week, I'm breaking it in on conventional oil, then I'll run mobil 1 advanced full synthetic, like the stock engine would normally like for 1 or 2 oil changes after that. I put Royal Purple in it last time and I didn't really like the outcome. After these few oil changes I'd like to move up to something else and I need help finding something good. The car will be ran hard, I do plan on taking it to the track, but it will have the majority of its miles on the street.
So, I did pretty extensive research recently, it started from seeing this thread: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2507806/1 I was interested in the Honda Idemitsu oil they were talking about in the beginning, but really the only thing good you can take from this is the Subaru Idemitsu oil, I can get it at the dealership. It's different from the old Honda oil, I believe the Honda oil was SM rated, the Subaru oil is SN GF5 rated, has a lower viscosity index though, but it's HTO-06 rated. The old Honda oil was thinner like the mobil 1, both about 170-175 viscosity index. I could keep putting mobil in it, but I really like the additive package in the Subaru oil, lots of moly and around 1000ppm of zinc show in the uoa's I see. I think mobil dropped the zinc count since my car was made. Neither mobil or subaru have a lot of magnesium in it, if they choose not to use it I'd probably like to stay that way, Royal Purple seems to have a lot of it, so definitely won't use it again. Others that I looked at are Amsoil ss and oe, Rotella T6, Eneos, and Redline. The only one I haven't seen ran in a honda k20 is Idemitsu, of any kind. It's been a while since you could get it at a Honda dealer and I highly doubt anyone is putting oil labeled Subaru in their honda.
Please tell me if this is a bad idea, it'll be a month at least before I do it anyway, I'm thinking about running 75% Subaru Idemitsu 5w30 full synthetic and 25% Mobil 1 5w30 advanced full synthetic and maybe even a shot (like literally a shot glass size, I'll have to find a good measuring cup lol) of zinc additive. My goal is to have most of the Idemitsu additive package (calcium, boron, phosphorus won't change much, molybdenum will mellow out, zinc will lower if I don't add any) and closer to the mobil 1 viscosity, then the zinc additive will keep it around a 1000ppm level. I will get a uoa for this if I do it.
Please help me out, I'm pretty paranoid, I want the best for my engine, especially at a good price lol. I'm still learning more about oil, I don't know the full effects of what everything does and the additive amounts I'm kind of going off averages from uoas and data sheets I see. I do know I want to keep zinc at about 1000ppm, I don't want to see 800ppm in my uoa although I have a roller cam. If you have anything else I should look at I'm will to spend $45/gal including shipping on oil, or travel to Kansas City, St. Louis, or Springfield, MO to get it, especially if it's cheaper.
 
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You're overthinking this in a major way, in my opinion. Run Mobil 1 or whatever your favorite name brand is. All of them should do the job nicely.

robert
 
In my experience, those motors are not terribly picky about the oil. Just stick to the manufacturer-recommended viscosity (for proper VTEC operation) and enjoy driving it!
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm probably putting a lot more thought into this than I need to, but understand I want something good and I'm curious, I will also save money using only about a quart of Mobil each change. The Subaru oil is like $28 vs $35. My only problem with mobil is they changed their additive package. Also, these engines are very picky, but only if the oil burns and a lot of it will burn. I want to boost the viscosity for racing, but have a nice additive package, that's why I asked about mixing, adding 5w-50 Mobil might be even be better for the summer.
 
I think no of the spun bearings was due to oil used, more because of bad mechanical and assembly job done. I think that if put together correctly this engine must be very reliable and not exteremely hard on oil and you're putting too much preocupation into the oil choice. By the other hand I've never been a big fan of mixing oils, really see no reason in doing it (except if in case of emergency to be able to bring the car back home or at the garage). I think it's good that you're aware of the need of using a stout racing oil with nice and strong additive package for racing conditions, in this case I would recomend you to use oils specially designed for racing applications like Red Line, Motul 300V or Royal Purple. When raced both engines and oils are put into a substantial stress so no need to save from oil in this case - engines are much more expensive than oils.
 
Is this a race motor? That wasn't really specified. In any case, Mobil 1 is used in plenty of race cars. I run M1 0W-40 in both my track cars, a Miata (dedicated track car, mostly used to run NASA TTE these days) and an S2000 ("fair weather" daily driver and track rat when I don't care to tow the Miata). It would likely work very well in this application, too.

robert
 
Home brewing, mixing oils and adding extra zinc isn't what I would do. I would use Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 or Mobil 1 0W40 if you want a fully formulated oil with lots of ZDDP. Mobil 1 High Mileage has lots of Boron also.
 
Just an FYI, in Honda circles it is well-know that Honda engines prefer a "thinner" oil as opposed to a thick oil. The VTEC solenoid and secondary cam lobe changeover are the culprits along with getting an adequate oil supply to cam towers #4 and #5 at very high RPM.
 
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I will second the Mobil 1 0w40 offered above. A friend of mine has a Acura TSX with a k20/24 frankenbuild. He uses it for weekends and track days mostly. Changes oil twice a year, usually 2000-2500 on an oil change. He was pretty picky about oil and whenever he put the oil in and the engine didn't feel good on it at any rpm - he dumped it right out and put the next oil in until he liked it. Now he sends his oils for UOAs. After long and extensive "research" and trying out pretty much everything out there - he stopped on 2 oils. Mobil 1 0w40, which is super cheap at WalMart. And Redline 0w40. Castrol 0w40 made the engine too noisy and felt like he constantly pulled a trailer, Pennzoil 0w40 felt too light for his taste, and Royal Purple 0w40 felt like castrol with purple dye. So there ya go.
 
Yeah, I said it wasn't the oils fault, though I'm not sure why it broke the first time aside from abuse. It's a 7 owner car, I have no clue how it only has 80k in the clock and so clean. Anyway, the last owner had Mobil 1 full synthetic the whole time he owned it, lord knows about the owners before, I can tell it had a few extra bolt ons and was lowered enough all 4 fenders are rolled. No telling how many times it's missed a shift or revved to 8400rpm on the stock ecu. I'm putting an oil pressure and temp gauge in it as well as a wideband o2.
I'm not loving the idea of mixing although it would seem completely stable, it'd be a lot better to have engineers standing behind the outcome of the mixture. I'm not going with RP again, can you tell me anything about the Motul 300v? It's motorcylcle oil, idk what the difference is although I drive one of the closest things to a motorcylce on the road today lol. The Redline oil doesn't look bad at all. Here's 5w40: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1081183 5w30 doesn't look bad either: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2277483 They're around the viscosity index I'm looking for though, 5w30 is pushing it, but still 166, 5w40 is 174.
I'll probably run 5w40 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter, 5w50 if it's Mobil, mixed or not, the Subaru Idemitsu only comes in 0w20 and 5w30. Redline is a little expensive, but I might be able to find a good deal. Messaging King Motorsports now lol.

Edit: I missed quite a few replies while replying to one lol. Why 0w exactly? Also, I haven't heard about Hondas preferring thinner oil, now you've got me second guessing a lot... I see more race cars ran on heavy oils like 15w30, 10w40, etc, that much seems stupid to me though. I'm thinking 0w40, 5w30, or 5w40. So my top choices are Redline 0w40, 5w30, or 5w40 and Mobil 0w40, 5w30, or 5w50, possibly with Subaru oil added, but then again that's a grey area.
 
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Let me tell you, K20 is a bulletproof engine, especially the A2. Those things aren't easy to destroy, unless someone money shifted. It must have been really abused. I remember, back home, my old EP3 Euro Type-R (k20a2) revs up to 9200 rpm on stock internals with basic bolt-ons and Kpro, it served me well for 2 years until I rebuilt the engine for the turbo. It was my "racecar" and I missed shift hundreds of times. Good ol' days.

xw40 is globally recommended viscosity for K20a2. If you take it to the track, you must use 40 weight. I'd highly recommend Mobil 1 0w40. Great all-rounder and readily available. Rotella 5w40 is also a great option, but since you need 5 quarts, Rotella costs more than M1 0w40.
 
I've got a k20z1, basically a type r engine with 11:1 compression pistons, also an update to the a2, sturdier actually. It made 225bhp outside the states. Bearings or scored cams are about the only major break I ever see on these engines, unless it turns over 9500 on stock internals. Rotella contains little to no moly and a lot of magnesium. Magnesium isn't bad, but it's somewhat abrasive I'd rather stick to the oils with a lower amount of magnesium because that's what it was built on. Redline seems to be the only upgrade from mobil at this moment.
 
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Yeah, it's quite possible some of the previous 7 owners of the car to have made some moneyshifts in some moments...Else I can't explain engine failures of this kind and more on such a reliable engine. I think it's a great idea to install some aditional gauges in the car - oil pressure gauge IMO is a must for every high-performance and used in racing car, water temperature gauge also because stock ones are quite forgivable and for a track car you need to know excatly what's happening in every moment.
About Motul 300V - this is the performance series of Motul which comes in multiple viscosity ranges from 0W-15 to 20W60 and it has different product lines for cars and bikes - in both cases the qulity is among the best. 300v together with Red Line (the last one almost impossible to get in the part of the world where I live) are maybe the best high-performance oils I have used. I recomend them to you for race application, you'll have your engine well-protected.
About viscosity - in recent years (or decades to be more exact) there's certain tendency of exaggerated call for using extra thin oils and the reasons are IMO more related with fuel economy than with increasing engine live and reliability, I personally won't use for sporty driving anything lower than XW-40, and personally think that for an upgraded and driven in racing style engine a XW-50 is the better option, but that's just me - will stop here on the viscosity subject because I'm not willing to open the can of worms. Regards man, great ride!
 
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At least the car is in good hands now, I watch it like a hawk and I trust the rebuild. I'll look again for motul and I'll say something if I have any questions. I think 40 sounds pretty good in this case, that's what Mugen VT-α is and what I hear is best for racing a honda.
 
I'm a fellow DC5 Type S owner. I have used ACEA A3/B4 lubricants in my car. They can be had for about $25 at Wal-Mart. If there is something worthy of overthinking, it is our oil filters. Following my rebuild and break-in, I will be using 154000-PCX-004 exclusively. It is said to be good for high performance VTEC engines.
 
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