'14 Accord Voltage Regulator for Alternator ?

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HTSS_TR

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My daughter 2014 Honda Accord couldn't start 2 days ago, I had it jump but it didn't start, so I swapped the battery of my S2000 to her car to have her driving home.

I had her battery charged overnight and tested it at Pep Boys, they said the battery was good at or near 100%.

Today I had the alternator tested at Autozone. The first minute with engine idle it was good at 14.3V-14.4V, then the tester flashing error or something like that and I think I saw the word "voltage regulator" is bad. It was at night on dimly lit parking lot so it was a little hard to read the handheld tester.

My question is, what is the "Voltage Regulator for Alternator" ? How hard is it to repair or replace Voltage Regulator ? Where can find Voltage Regulator for 2014 Accord LX 4-cyl ?

PS Autozone doesn't have Alternator for this '14 Accord, Amazon doesn't have it in stock and it is $300, Rockauto has remanufactured REMY at $215 + $50 core + $15 shipping cost.
 
IIRC, Honda uses Denso alternators and those have internal voltage regulators. Two years is way too early for the alternator to fail.
 
She bought the car May 2014 but mileage is more than 40k miles.

I told her to contact dealer tomorrow to see if they can do anything for her car.

Yes, I did a little more research and found that this alternator has internal voltage regulator.

The alternator of 1994 LS400 failed after 14-15 years, mainly because the power steering reservoir leak fluid down into it.

The alternator of 2000 E430 is working well after 16 years, probably many more years, same for 2004 S2000.
 
Voltage Regulator is the typical failure mode on alternators. Get it replaced as soon as possible as it can take out other electrical parts ... including some very expensive ones ... under certain failure modes, and failure of that part tends to be progressive..

I would consider this a clear warranty issue.

If you are handy, you can usually buy alternator rebuild kits and do it yourself, but since you have a clear warranty claim it's probably not a good option.

There is a fairly huge price difference between one of of the kits (which contain every wear item) versus a rebuilt alternator should it come out of your pocket. A kit for pre-1990's GM alternator is about $20.
 
Are you sure it's not intentionally commanding a lower voltage, sensing a full battery? The voltage in my Civic drops down to mid-high 12s when warm, no lights on. As soon as I turn the parking lights or headlights on, it hops back up.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
My daughter 2014 Honda Accord couldn't start 2 days ago

I'll bet she left the lights on and drained the battery.
 
You are going to hate me but I think you should NOT have used the auto store to test the alternator. I have heard that bench testing Honda alternator at auto parts store have caused them to go bad. You should have just hooked up a volt meter or DMM to watch the voltage. Hook it up and drive and watch the voltage. As long as it is staying over the battery voltage, the alternator is working OK.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Bring the alternator to a rebuild shop and have them repair/rebuild it. You will end up with a better alternator than some of the junk from AZ or AAP.

She needs her car to commute to work. Take the alternator to a rebuild shop would disable her car for several days, unless we can borrow a vehicle for her this option is not suitable for now. Thanks for advice, and I do believe that rebuild may be better than even OEM.

Originally Posted By: Vikas
You are going to hate me but I think you should NOT have used the auto store to test the alternator. I have heard that bench testing Honda alternator at auto parts store have caused them to go bad. You should have just hooked up a volt meter or DMM to watch the voltage. Hook it up and drive and watch the voltage. As long as it is staying over the battery voltage, the alternator is working OK.

There is no reason for me to hate any input. Your input is as good as anyone.

The reason I had it tested at AZ(in the car with engine idle) was I didn't know how to actually do the test, what voltage level do I suppose to look for. Now you're talking about output voltage of a good alternator above battery voltage, I will use DMM(free from HF) to do the test myself.

There is an eBay seller has totaled 2014 Accord LX 4-cyl with 22k miles alternator for sale. I think I may buy this one and save it for future use.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The reason I had it tested at AZ(in the car with engine idle) was I didn't know how to actually do the test, what voltage level do I suppose to look for.

You test the alternator simply by connecting a DVMM across the terminals of the battery with the engine running.

TEST #1 (low-charge mode):
-- Turn all accessories OFF (A/C, rear defroster, interior blower, headlights, etc.)
-- Turn headlights OFF (if equipped with DRLs, start engine with parking brake ON)
-- Start engine and allow it to idle
-- Voltage between terminals must be 12.65V or greater.

TEST #2 (high-charge mode):
-- Start engine and allow it to idle
-- Turn all accessories ON (headlights, A/C, rear defroster, interior blower, etc.)
-- Voltage between terminals must be well into the 13s or 14s.

There are also two separate, simple tests for the battery's state-of-charge and ability to deliver power when starting. There is no need at all to use a parts store's "tester".
 
Make sure your red BATT charging light is functioning! It should light up when you turn the ignition on and should go off as soon as car starts (just like your red OIL pressure light). Any flicker of the red light at any time means trouble!
 
I'd get it tested somewhere else, if you have a reputable mechanic, see if he can do it.

Those testers at AutoZone/O'Reilly's are awful. I took the 1970 Beetle to AutoZone for a battery test, they said it was bad. Took it to O'Reillys (O'Reillys battery in it) and it tested as good. I even took out the battery and had it tested at another O'Reillys and they used their charging machine and it tested as good too. Turns out the generator wasn't charging.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger

There are also two separate, simple tests for the battery's state-of-charge and ability to deliver power when starting. There is no need at all to use a parts store's "tester".


Sure there is: ripple current. THe midtronics type battery tester also have an "alternator mode" with the car running and it instructs the operator to run the high beams and defroster to test the system. If it sees ripple you've got bad diodes and reduced capacity in the alt, even if it still makes 14 volts.

Midtronics knows what they're doing and that their tester will be used poorly by hurried, sometimes undertrained staff who sometimes have ulterior motives to sell stuff or deny warranty, depending. They idiot-proofed the process fairly well with what they have available.

OTOH you can hear ripple in your AM radio; its a pulsey beat that varies with engine/ alternator RPM *and worse under load* vs spark noise that's only RPM.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: Tegger
There are also two separate, simple tests for the battery's state-of-charge and ability to deliver power when starting. There is no need at all to use a parts store's "tester".

Sure there is: ripple current. THe midtronics type battery tester also have an "alternator mode" with the car running and it instructs the operator to run the high beams and defroster to test the system. If it sees ripple you've got bad diodes and reduced capacity in the alt, even if it still makes 14 volts.

There are even simpler ways that cover most situations, most of the time. They involves a simple multimeter, and and a bit of your time.

Originally Posted By: eljefino
OTOH you can hear ripple in your AM radio; its a pulsey beat that varies with engine/ alternator RPM *and worse under load* vs spark noise that's only RPM.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
 
Thanks guys.

I will do the two test modes: low-charge mode and high-charge mode tomorrow when my daughter come home.

Also, I may get it tested at another Pep Boys and O'Reilly.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I think the ECM controls alternator output on this unit, IIRC it doesn't use a internal regulator.


This is correct. Also, you will need to consult the factory repair manual for the correct test procedure. I have seen some vehicles that will only show 13v at idle, but that is actually the correct output for the charging system. Some charging systems will only charge upon coasting (BMW comes to mind). So, you really need to find out Honda's testing procedure in order to perform the correct test.

A $10 subscription to Honda serviceexpress is probably your best option.

If you have to replace the alternator, please go with a Denso reman or an OE unit from the dealer. Not the offshore aftermarket junk that BITOGers seem to love.
 
The basic question that needs to be asked is why in the world OP believed that the alternator needed to be tested? If the battery died in two days while not running, it is usually parasitic drain and/or a bad cell. As long as the charging voltage is higher than resting battery voltage, there is no need to start digging in to charging system.

Keep it simple!
 
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