Buick Century remote trunk release not working

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901Memphis

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So this one is odd to me, out of no where the automatic trunk release stopped working. It won't work on either remote or with the button on the inside of the glove box.

The strange part is that if I open the trunk with my key and hit the button on my remote I can watch and hear the mechanism working fine it seems. If the trunk is closed I don't hear the click when I push the button.

Thoughts?
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
It won't work on either remote or with the button on the inside of the glove box.


I have the exact same problem with my LeSabre.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
So this one is odd to me, out of no where the automatic trunk release stopped working. It won't work on either remote or with the button on the inside of the glove box.

The strange part is that if I open the trunk with my key and hit the button on my remote I can watch and hear the mechanism working fine it seems. If the trunk is closed I don't hear the click when I push the button.

Thoughts?


Open your trunk manually and look inside behind the lock, should be a wire and connector running to it. The clip on my lock is broke and its only works when it wants to. Maybe your clip is broken off (or disconnected).
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
So this one is odd to me, out of no where the automatic trunk release stopped working. It won't work on either remote or with the button on the inside of the glove box.

The strange part is that if I open the trunk with my key and hit the button on my remote I can watch and hear the mechanism working fine it seems. If the trunk is closed I don't hear the click when I push the button.

Thoughts?


Most likely... look in the looming that comes down along the hinges for broken wires - inspect for this very closely it is waaay more common than faulty actuators or other issues on these vehicles...

BurrWinder
 
If you have little stand off knobby rubber things see if they adjust for more upward tension.
 
My 2003 Lesabre hood latch froze in the open position a couple months ago when it was single digit temperatures and I was hundreds of miles from home. Stopped for gas (necessary), checked the oil as is my usual habit; and the hood wouldn't latch closed....Yes, the cable was sufficiently frozen...NOT funny when it happened.

Limped 3 miles to work, used a propane weed burner (gently) to thaw it out; shot it good with Kroil every day for a week...Now it probably operates better than it did when brand new.

My difficulties MAY have been self-inflicted; since I was working at the end of a 3 mile gravel road and I was washing my car almost every evening...probably got the latch wet...but it's nice to compare notes with other OCD Buick owners.
 
I just find it weird that it moves with the lid open but not closed, or at least I'd hear some sound of it trying to move with the lid closed, I really miss the trunk button already I use it a lot
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I really miss the trunk button already I use it a lot


It took me forever to get used to turning the lock with a key.

One of these days I'm gonna get out there and troubleshoot it.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I just find it weird that it moves with the lid open but not closed, or at least I'd hear some sound of it trying to move with the lid closed, I really miss the trunk button already I use it a lot


Again, reread my last post.... this happens so frequently in this vintage - broken wires - I'm tellin' ya... they may even contact and work in open/certain positions as you describe.... ck it out !!
Report back what you find...

BurrWinder
 
Originally Posted By: BurrWinder
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I just find it weird that it moves with the lid open but not closed, or at least I'd hear some sound of it trying to move with the lid closed, I really miss the trunk button already I use it a lot


Again, reread my last post.... this happens so frequently in this vintage - broken wires - I'm tellin' ya... they may even contact and work in open/certain positions as you describe.... ck it out !!
Report back what you find...

BurrWinder


Yes I will check that when I have time, currently at work and the buick is at home
 
Yep it's the wires


2w5ndhe.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yep it's the wires


Is that the wire bundle that runs along the trunk hinge and gets subjected to being flexed every time you open and close the trunk lid ?
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yep it's the wires


Is that the wire bundle that runs along the trunk hinge and gets subjected to being flexed every time you open and close the trunk ?



Yes on the right side, i'm guessing they may not all be as obviously broken as mine. Now i'm worried my tail lights in the middle might be going on and off
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yes on the right side, i'm guessing they may not all be as obviously broken as mine. Now i'm worried my tail lights in the middle might be going on and off.


My trunk light went out awhile back and before it went out completely, it would come on and off depending on the position of the trunk lid. Shortly there after, the trunk lock quit working too.
 
I'm out at the store loading the trunk and I decided to turn the car on to check my lights and the tail lights were working but the license plate bulbs and center red running lights weren't on so I juggled it and lost everything... Guess I'm going back in the store for some electrical tape and maybe some wire nuts so I can get home....

I guess I could do what the average American would and drive around with no rear running lights or brake lights
 
Got some butt connectors and crimpers and had to replace the 15 amp fusefuse but it's "together" and working for now. I couldn't find any 3M electrical tape, the Dorman tape is garbage, it hardens easily and chips right off the roll
 
Use the 3M butt connectors with built-in heatshrink and glue. I use those all the time. I can only find the pink size locally at WalMart, which is 18-22 but I use them with 16ga with no problems. Then you heat it so it will shrink while the glue oozes out and seals the connection.
 
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