Rotella T6 vs Gastrol Edge 0w40

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ntoxicator

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hey there

I've been running T6 in my 2013 Jetta GLI (Unitronics Stage 2) since around 20,000 miles. UOA has shown good results. About to do another UOA at 70,000. Have another post on oil additives for adding Lubro MS02 - not sure if needed.

I previously tested the castrol 0w40 in my car.. However, the butt dyno - it felt weird. car definitely rev'd faster, but felt as if I had boost lag and also more Rev hang (dual mass flywheel).. common issue with these cars for revv. hang.

When running. T6 - I'm sure due to thicker oil, everything feels right with the car, pulls hard, and boost onset feels proper.

Considering trying Castrol Ow40 again.. Simply due to PRICE! Everywhere I look, the Rotella T6 has gone up in price.

Wal-Mart has T6 for $22/gallon, and then another $6 and change for a 1QT bottle. Total of 5QT's would be nearly $30.

I was thinking about pouring 4QT's of Castrol 0w40 and using 1QT of Rotella T6. To further add to ZDDP and to thicken up the oil.

Opinions? Below is older UOA I did. I'll have another one later after I get UOA back from blackstone.


13%20GLI-032215_new.jpg
 
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T6 5w40 is not "thicker" than Castrol 0w40 except on cold starts. They're both in the 40-weight (operating temp) range.
 
zero consumption. or if at all, minimal to best.

only time noticed consumption was when I was running a Catch Can.
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
More so the Viscosity of the oils are different? I'm a oil newb
wink.gif



I would say Castrol 0W40.
It has lower NOACK, and probably better HTHS. T6 is thicker (14.2cst compare to 13.5cst at 100c), but we do not know what is HTHS of T6, and that is what matters in Turbo engines.
 
True.. But then again the T6 is a HDEO? so would think would hold up to high heat and for turbo application such as my vehicle.

I was just compairing here and had an idea to mix the Castrol 0w40 with Rotella T6.

I already have a 1QT bottle of the T6, just need another gallon jug or just start buying 2 at a time again. Crazy the price keeps going up on the T6 oil. Shell knows they have a good product

But didnt they recently lower ZDDP? Or was this awhile ago.
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
True.. But then again the T6 is a HDEO? so would think would hold up to high heat and for turbo application such as my vehicle.

Possibly, but it doesn't meant that it's automatically better than some other oils like Edge 0w-40.

Quote:
But didnt they recently lower ZDDP? Or was this awhile ago.

Edge 0w-40 has an add pack that's at least as strong as Rotella T6, if not stronger.
 
Both options will hold up to heat just fine. Don't sell any of the approved lubricants short. As for phosphorus, nothing has really changed since the introduction of CJ-4, aside from a couple companies introducing E6 lubricants to North America. Shell is not one of these yet.
 
Just notice the UOA I posted. It actually shows the 3 UOA's I performed with blackstone. Did everyone catch that?

Just making sure - again, I'm oil newb and not sure exactly what to look for

I know ZDDP is good anti wear protection, also there can be a combination of additive packs that create anti wear and such. Also higher TBN is sign of oil life

I know the Rotella T6 has a higher Viscosity of 13.7? But my car has not had any oil pump related issues or oil pressure related that I'm aware of. Pulls hard and boost onset is where it should be.

Only thing that stands out, is that the earliest UOA shows the Viscosity sheared down to 11.37??
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
Only thing that stands out, is that the earliest UOA shows the Viscosity sheared down to 11.37??

Yes. That is also the OCI where you had elevated silicon levels. Did something out of ordinary happen during that particular OCI?

But other than that viscosity drop, I don't really see any issues though.
 
I believe I had dirty Air Filter (cold air intake filter).

Also later noticed boost leak / a slice in my Silicone intercooler piping.

This has all been fixed and more mods done to car. I'll be sending oil for another UOA very shortly and can post back results and how car is doing with this oil, now at 70k miles

I did run the Castrol belgium edge 0w40 prior. ~15k miles ago - never send it off for a UOA due to crazy schedule & having to move. meh.
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
More so the Viscosity of the oils are different? I'm a oil newb
wink.gif




They're not different, they're both 40-weight oils at operating temperature. OK, there's an allowable range for 40-weight oils, so one MIGHT be a little thicker, and it MIGHT be the 0w40 and not the 5w40 (assuming we didn't actually know which particular brands we are looking at...) Given that we know its Rotella vs Castrol, there's mroe that could be said. Based on UOAs and VOAs, we know that Rotella is a somewhat thinnish 40, I personally don't know much about Castrol 0w40 because its never been on my radar.

About why "they're both 40 weight oils:"
The number before the "w" is the "winter" rating. It has nothing to do with the thickness at operating temperature, its a relative measure of how much the oil thickens from its HOT rating (40 in this case) as it cools to very low temperatures. a 0w40 thickens less than a 5w40 which thickens less than a 10w40 which thickens less than a 15w40, which (generally, there are exceptions with some boutique mono-grades) thickens less than a straight SAE40. But within the allowances of the 40 grade, they are ALL the same when hot. Also that number before the "w" is tested for meeting the spec at a REALLY cold temperature (-30F? I forget exactly because I live in Texas), so at moderately cold temps (like freezing, or 20F, or even 10F) you still can't necessarily say which one will be thicker. Its more LIKELY that the 0w40 will flow better at 20F than a 5w40, but since that's not the testing point you really don't know.
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
True.. But then again the T6 is a HDEO? so would think would hold up to high heat and for turbo application such as my vehicle.

I was just compairing here and had an idea to mix the Castrol 0w40 with Rotella T6.

I already have a 1QT bottle of the T6, just need another gallon jug or just start buying 2 at a time again. Crazy the price keeps going up on the T6 oil. Shell knows they have a good product

But didnt they recently lower ZDDP? Or was this awhile ago.

Castrol is made for high performing vehicles in mind, T6 with trucks in mind.
Take into consideration that NOACK of T6 is 12.6%, which means you will experience more carbonization that TSI engines are known for.
I would not even think between those two oils.
 
I looked at Spec sheets for both the Castrol "belgium" Edge 0w40 and the Rotella T6

Here is For the Castrol:

TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS
SAE Rating : 0W-40
KV @ 100°C : 13.1 cSt
KV @ 40°C : 79 cSt
CCS @ - 35°C : 5,950 cP
High Temp High Shear Viscosity : 3.6
Pour Point : -60 °C

The Rotella

Has higher viscosity, and slightly higher TBN.

KV @ 100*C - 14.2
TBN: 10.6

However -- Unable to find the shearing number.

Essentially look like both great oils. Just looking one to serve me well without any worries as far as wear & protection go. I drive the car hard, daily basis. I suppose the new UOA will speak for itself.

Suppose if something will fail, it will be other than an oil related failure.
 
Thanks for Input fella's

Yeah, When I moved to the T6 awhile back -- I knew it would have possibility to create higher carbon build-up on my DI engine.

I had intake manifold replaced (recall/failure) at 50k Miles (if memory serves), and had them perform a valve cleaning at the time since manifold was coming off. Tech said it wasn't bad at all. But then again, someones word against what my eyes would of seen if I performed the job myself.

I'm going to try the Castrol 0w40 again and do a UOA this time. Maybe due to the small boost leak and other issue I uncovered was root cause for the butt dyno feelings
 
Originally Posted By: ntoxicator
and had them perform a valve cleaning at the time since manifold was coming off. Tech said it wasn't bad at all.

I think the fact that you drive the car hard actually helps burn off deposits.
 
I think that is a contributing factor
smile.gif
. There was an article published by VW regarding their DI engines. That they recommend "italian tune-up" or the frequent of 3K RPM under load for 10-15 minutes to aid in burning off deposits. Gets nice and hot! lol
 
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